John Galt Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 I am an aspiring Blacksmith here in Central New Yorkistan . . . Been away from the forge for a couple months while I was adding a 24' 2 story addition to my workshop . . I paint cars, build hot rods and recently . . . . learning the craft of Blacksmithing. Got tired of working in the cold rain today on the addition and decided to fire up the forge. I made four 6 inch "S" hooks. Started with 12 inch lengths of 5/16" round. Please let me know what I can do to improve these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 looks great! All very similar thus looks repeatable. Consider making square or octagon along the length or middle in order to add a twist. Twisting round is not very interesting. Consider finials going the opposite direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 They look good. Consistent shape. Finials going the other direction will tend to get hung up on stuff...leave them as is. BTDT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldironkilz Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 They look good John Galt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Galt Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 Thank you for the kind replies. I am an Engineer (it's a curse) by trade and education so I am pretty anal about anything I put my hand to. But, in my older years I have definitely mellowed. I was pretty pleased with the results and am glad that you all agree I have a crapload of 1/4" and 5/16" round so I will be making a lot more of these. I do not have any square stock in that size range. I will be shopping around for some. But I guess I could put a square to the round stock . . hmmm. Thanks again for the kind remarks for my efforts!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalmangeler Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 To make an assortment of twists on these you do not need to go to square, 2 flat sides will work, I often make a wide round flat area in the center leaving a ridge down the center as you often see on leaves, starting with a c shape then 1/2 twist to make an S hook. I like to bring my rat tails clear around to meet the original stock so there is not a hook on the end to catch things. Your hooks are really nice and consistant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ethan the blacksmith Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 must say, The look quiet clean, especially for a first try! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Bill Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Elegant to my eye. Thank you for not twisting anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 A trick to making them a little more rigid if used for hanging heavy items is to slightly flatten the loops, as is often done for earring hooks. I would second closing the scrolls on the end, to avoid catching small items. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 I close my counterbends too. How are you finishing them to prevent rust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Nice job John, well done. I close the finial scrolls to avoid snagging on things too. Smaller overall and they'll look more robust. Scaling the finished piece to the stock can have a real aesthetic affect. Working wise, Depending on what's being hung is how they'll hang in use. Force takes the most direct route so an S hook hung on something it will swing from and carrying something that can swing as well will hang from the longest possible dimension. If a coat is hung from the end of the hook it will cant forward a bit, forcing the bottom hook back and the shaft will appear more out of true. You can also take into account what it's going to be used for. Hanging a lantern IN a barn might mean making a hook that will hold the lantern away from a wall or well below a beam. A beam hook's top hook might be formed to fit the beam snugly enough it won't swing. These aren't so much critique of your work but ideas and factors sometimes worth consideration. Depending on if you want to sell a product it can't hurt to have specialty versions for folk with need. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 23 hours ago, John Galt said: Thank you for the kind replies. I am an Engineer (it's a curse) by trade and education so I am pretty anal about anything I put my hand to. But, in my older years I have definitely mellowed. I was pretty pleased with the results and am glad that you all agree I have a crapload of 1/4" and 5/16" round so I will be making a lot more of these. I do not have any square stock in that size range. I will be shopping around for some. But I guess I could put a square to the round stock . . hmmm. Thanks again for the kind remarks for my efforts!! USe the round to make square stock... or... I love octagon. THis also provides a fully hand forged product. Forged 100% over the entire surface. it's great practice too. And at 1/4" and 5/16" you are not going to kill your arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flemish Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 I have heard that if you want round stock buy square and if you want square you should buy round. That way you get a true forged product. Flemish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Of course few buyers are willing to pay for the "best quality forging" Selling $50 pieces for $5 is surprisingly easy to do but very unsatisfying in the long term. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 4 hours ago, ThomasPowers said: Of course few buyers are willing to pay for the "best quality forging" Selling $50 pieces for $5 is surprisingly easy to do but very unsatisfying in the long term. Unless you're the buyer of course. Seriously, it's better to overcharge than undercharge. I won't go into the value of "bragging rights" part but if folk don't tell you it's too expensive now and then you're not charging enough. Folk who win every bid never stay in business very long, then again neither do folk who never win a bid. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Galt Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 On 12/29/2015 at 4:34 PM, Frosty said: Unless you're the buyer of course. Seriously, it's better to overcharge than undercharge. I won't go into the value of "bragging rights" part but if folk don't tell you it's too expensive now and then you're not charging enough. Folk who win every bid never stay in business very long, then again neither do folk who never win a bid. Frosty The Lucky. Frosty, what is a fair price for something like this? I posted these pics on my FB and have had several inquiries. I checked E(vil)Bay and saw similar S hooks for $12 a pair plus shipping . . . On 12/28/2015 at 5:17 PM, Borntoolate said: USe the round to make square stock... or... I love octagon. THis also provides a fully hand forged product. Forged 100% over the entire surface. it's great practice too. And at 1/4" and 5/16" you are not going to kill your arm. Sir, that is my plan for the next batch . . . Thanks!! On 12/28/2015 at 4:10 PM, Frosty said: Nice job John, well done. I close the finial scrolls to avoid snagging on things too. Smaller overall and they'll look more robust. Scaling the finished piece to the stock can have a real aesthetic affect. Working wise, Depending on what's being hung is how they'll hang in use. Force takes the most direct route so an S hook hung on something it will swing from and carrying something that can swing as well will hang from the longest possible dimension. If a coat is hung from the end of the hook it will cant forward a bit, forcing the bottom hook back and the shaft will appear more out of true. You can also take into account what it's going to be used for. Hanging a lantern IN a barn might mean making a hook that will hold the lantern away from a wall or well below a beam. A beam hook's top hook might be formed to fit the beam snugly enough it won't swing. These aren't so much critique of your work but ideas and factors sometimes worth consideration. Depending on if you want to sell a product it can't hurt to have specialty versions for folk with need. Frosty The Lucky. Thank you Sir! One of the things my Gramps taught me was to recognize the voice of experience and wisdom and then to LISTEN to it! On 12/28/2015 at 0:02 PM, ThomasPowers said: I close my counterbends too. How are you finishing them to prevent rust? Sir, I have Beeswax, Linseed Oil, and Turpentine. I have to make up a batch of Blackmith Goop . . I will be referencing th Alchemy subforum for the recipe over the next few days . . On 12/28/2015 at 7:38 AM, John McPherson said: A trick to making them a little more rigid if used for hanging heavy items is to slightly flatten the loops, as is often done for earring hooks. I would second closing the scrolls on the end, to avoid catching small items. Excellent idea, makes perfect Engineering sense also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick O Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 they all look awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Nice post. Awesome replies. NIce reply backs. Nice challenges and counterpoints... Sweet! This is why this website is so awesome!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Galt Posted January 6, 2016 Author Share Posted January 6, 2016 20 hours ago, Borntoolate said: Nice post. Awesome replies. NIce reply backs. Nice challenges and counterpoints... Sweet! This is why this website is so awesome!!! Yes!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom H Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 On 12/29/2015 at 7:19 AM, flemish said: I have heard that if you want round stock buy square and if you want square you should buy round. That way you get a true forged product. Flemish What he said! Since you have 5/16 round, make something out of 1/4 square. Squaring the stock leaving a good finish is excellent practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kubiack Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 To give the ones made from round stock a little more interest you can upset the stock in the middle of the bar and the flatten it out and twist it. The flattened area in the middle should be kind of an oval shape tapering back to the round parent stock. It makes a really nice looking ball shaped twist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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