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Posted

Im thinking of attempting to make a swage block. For no other reason than I'd like one.

I have seen a page on another site showing the basic method of this. Hot link to " other site " removed

Is there anything you would add to this or change?

 

 

Posted

ive got access to various angle iron sections so i can bend them  ( either opening or closing the angle). thought some seamless scaffold pole might go into it. i was thinking about a bowl shape but have no idea how id do that bit yet.

Ill keep your odds and ends in mind though. :)

 

Posted

scaffold is not seemless and is only 5mm thick and its galvanized, get 12mm thick if you can and the same with the other bits.

also it will only be mild steel unless you go to specialist places

bowls are not hard to do

 

Posted

There was a guy that posted a video of the swage block he had made on IFI.  Torch or laser cut 1/2"plate stacked and welded together around the edges If I remember right. 

Posted

Check out the scrap yards and see what you can find to use as a swag block or see if there's a local blacksmith group that sells to members. I can get one for $100 as well as mandrels.

Posted

What profile swages are you looking for Charles? The through holes are pretty unused on my Lancaster pattern swage block. Being straight they aren't useful even as stake plate and I'm not going to be drawing through them. The round through holes are of some use making bowls and dippers. I've never used a swage block with bowl, dipper, shovel, etc. dies but have never needed one. It's just too easy to forge bowl and shovel shapes on the anvil. I use the term "bowl" in that sentence to include everything with a bowl shape, T spoon to cauldron.

The only shape on my block I've found really useful is the V swage for making things like anvil devils and hacks but they're not so hard to forge on the anvil either. The hex swages come in handy to profile the edge of a Brazeal style punch, slitter, etc. one corner of the hex is the correct angle. You don't need a swage flock for a hex though, just weld a couple nuts together or drive one into a steel block for a bottom tool. That big old block is sitting right there so. . .

Of course that's just me and my swage block experience.

Frosty The Lucky.

Posted

Let me know, I should be visiting it over Christmas and can measure some pieces for you.  If I go to Quad-State next fall I can even bring a piece that's not too heavy to OK on my way.

Posted

I'd be happy; but my schedule might be a bit weird for you.  we go up early, staying overnight with the kids and grandkids in NW AR, then hitting a fiber conference in Yellow Springs OH the weekend ahead of Quad State and visiting with another set of kids & grandkids in Columbus OH  and finally getting to Quad-State Thursday and skedaddling Sunday after lunch.  The extras are what lure my wife to go...

We also make a point of stopping along the side of the interstate near Rollo for the concord grape stands...

Posted

Kids and grand kids are what its all about, and Even tho Linda and I parted ways I dabbled in weaving in JH and HS. Built a Navajo style loom. Converted it to a worp weight as its easer, tho upside down. I still have an interest, resently found out you can weave  double wide...

then again I drive a 2 ton as a dayly driver, might "haul freight" to quadstate if there are interested parties

 

 

 

Posted
On ‎11‎/‎26‎/‎2015‎ ‎1‎:‎29‎:‎31‎, Charles R. Stevens said:

One of theise days I'll poney up th $ for the saltfork swage and mandril. I would like one with other than 1/2 round profiles.

hey TJ know any one with access to 2" plate?

I got one of their blocks. Its handy, has a real nice shovel impression in it..Ive put off buying one of the cones forever..One small reason..For some reason everytime I see those handling holes left from the foundry my lip curls up..I know it does not affect use one bit and is purely cosmetic but for some reason I just get irritated,LOL

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