Steel Glider Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Hi. My name is Colin. I would like to fabricate some turn off the century metal chairs. I have restored a few of these classics and would now like to replicate them. I have attached a pic. I assume I simply start from stock flat iron. The chairs are designed to 'bounce' like a rocking chair. Is this something I can take to a blacksmith or do I need to transfer the design to paper/computer? I'd like to make several of these chairs. Any suggestions would be awesome! Colin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 What's the alloy and heat treat on them like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steel Glider Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 I have no idea. I think they are solid flat iron. They are very heavy. There is no welding anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Research the history and try to find out what the material used at the time. No doubt carbon steel but what were they calling it? http://www.admiralsteel.com/ has a category of products they call spring steel strip. The alloys in that category are of lower carbon content but can be heat treated and to retain extra spring with out becoming too hard Turn of the century or not they were using steel. Further research on you part is necessary Knowing the material a blacksmith could reproduce what you show there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steel Glider Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 Ok, I can work with this. They were manufactured around 1940 I think. Bunting Glider Co from Pittsburg PA. I'll start some research. Thanks! Colin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmoothBore Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Getting the temper right will be the trickiest part ..... . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpankySmith Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Really like those chairs, simple but elegant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 think its time for you to get an anvil, forge and a good hammer. Need an anvil? Read the stickies, need a forge? The stickies can help with that too, as well as a hammer. If you have a modericum of mechanical ability (wich end of a hammer do you hold?) and a willingness to learn, experimant and fail but true again you can make those chairs. Scrolling, heattreating, of sets, punching riviting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 (edited) Other than peining rivets that's a straight up fab project. Cutoff saw, drill press, torch and a couple bending dies. Jig to assemble and a rivet set. I'd make one from mild first and see if one of my BIG friends and mean old Mr. gravity could damage it. 300+lb. repeated plunks should show if it needs to be spring.I have a commercially made steel Adirondack chair that's similar, VERY similar and it's not spring stock. Deb hates it so it lives in the woods now. <sigh>Frosty The Lucky. Edited October 28, 2015 by Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GottMitUns Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 On a closer look at the picture, is there a hinge at the junction on the seat and the back? if so are there any other hinges on it? Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steel Glider Posted October 28, 2015 Author Share Posted October 28, 2015 That is the only hinged junction. I assume it was designed like that to assist with the long lasting 'bounce'. Once this chair gets going... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JME1149 Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 I have a couple of those chairs at camp and they are comfy. Please keep us posted if you find out anything about the materials, I might just have to try making one myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 If I was trying to do an exact copy I would probably spring for two tests: One a spark spectroscopy to determine the alloy and the second a hardness test to give an idea about how it was processed. Both do little damage to the item---got any friends at a University with a MatSci/Metallurgy department? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WL smith Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Just make it and to hell with all of the above advice. Some times you win. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steel Glider Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 I have a couple of those chairs at camp and they are comfy. Please keep us posted if you find out anything about the materials, I might just have to try making one myself.Would you be able to take a few pics? I'm trying to sort out why my chairs have a hinge where the seat assembly joins the backrest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JME1149 Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Mine are exactly the same. My guess is it allows the seat and back to pivot just a bit while "bouncing". You've got two pivot points (seat to back and seat to arm) with the fixed point at the front of the seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 as the seat flexes the shape of the upper section between the seat and the back compresses and expands. The weight of the person is carried in the back 2/3 of the seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 If the back and seet were not hinged the spring would be only from the seat to the ground, now its from the back to the ground. Hinge gives you a longer spring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 (edited) Two hinge points one where the back meets the seat and one where the arms meet the back. This turns it into a compound lever arrangement sit down and the downward motion of the seat wants to lean the backrest forward and the arms resist with the added force of the seat pulling the arms towards the back.Lean back and it pulls the arms back and pushes the seat downwards drawing the backrest bottom forward. The hinge points make it a smooth, sensitive, responsive action.Sorry, that doesn't sound clear at all and I have to say it's been a long time since I sat in one and watched it work. Every time I read what I wrote the less sense it makes, please feel free to disregard what I just said.Take a look at the fold up Adirondack chairs, they have a similar compound lever action that might explain how they work. However they work they're comfy chairs.Frosty The Lucky. Edited October 29, 2015 by Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 When you look closely at it there is a lot of sophistication and elegance to the design. Too bad that we tend not to expect those things in a made in china era. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steel Glider Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 Mark my words, I will learn to make these chairs. You all have been super helpful. I love this forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steel Glider Posted December 3, 2015 Author Share Posted December 3, 2015 So, I requested a quote from a local testing lab here in Chicago in an effort to discover the composition of the metal used in creating these chairs. It's very important to re-create the 'bounce' and also, I'd prefer the chairs not snap in half in someone of 'size' sits in one and decides to test out the limits of the spring action. If interested, you can follow my progress on my new site. www.steelglider.com There is a blog section where I'll post results of my activities. Thanks again for all your help! Colin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JME1149 Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Please keep us posted. I know what you mean about someone of "size" testing the limits. I've seen our chair flex all the way down to the floor without breaking, yet spring back to it's original shape/position when unloaded (although getting them up and out of the chair is a challenge in itself). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gote Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 I would be a little worried about the rivet where the seat joins the armrest at the front end. It looks like a weak point. I would put in a short supporting piece there to relieve the stress concentration at the rivet hole. Just four inches of the same material ground to a taper at both ends and held by the same rivet. Maybe I worry unnecessary the chair is obviously OK in the pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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