Nick Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Most of the home built hammers I've seen have the power switch mounted on the frame around waist height. I'm still knocking ideas around while I gather materials for my first hammer, and one thing I thought of was a kick switch mounted on the base. My grandpa always wired in homemade pedal switches to his bench tools (I learned to be careful walking around the basement!), so he never needed to reach over or around or let go of what he was holding. I have his big drill press now, and I love the pedal switch. For a hammer I was thinking an on/off mounted somewhere near the treadle, probably on the front of the base so even if I'm holding something heavy with both hands I can come to the hammer, kick it on, and kick it off without ever taking my hands off the piece. This seems a logical setup to me, but I don't recall ever seeing anything like it. Is there a reason the switch is always mounted high that I don't know, or is this workable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j.w.s. Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 well, you could always go to harbor freight and geta cheap footswitch just to see how you like it. I think a lot of people put it where they do as a matter of convenienceso there's no rules set in stone as to it's placement. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I have a pedal switch on my drill press but nothing else in the shop. My only concern about a foot switch on the power hammer would be an unplanned motor start from tripping over it accidentally. And everyone's habits differ, but I usually turn on my hammer and leave the motor running until I'm done forging - whether between heat cycles or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRS Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I have a pedal switch on my drill press but nothing else in the shop. My only concern about a foot switch on the power hammer would be an unplanned motor start from tripping over it accidentally. And everyone's habits differ, but I usually turn on my hammer and leave the motor running until I'm done forging - whether between heat cycles or not. A foot switch like the one on power shears should do the trick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 Accidentally turning it on could be an issue, but a cover for the switch, a secondary switch between it and the wall, or simply unplugging it when not immediately in use could all reduce that. I wouldn't like having the motor running while I'm reheating or not at the power hammer for whatever reason, if for no other reason than keeping the electric bill a little lower. And if I don't like the arrangement, I could always move it or rewire it to something more conventional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 I have used foot switches in several locations. There is ALWAYS a master switch that turns on the electric to that one machine. This way there are no accidental activations because unless the master switch to THAT machine is on, there is no electric. There is also a main breaker at the door that shuts down everything in the shop. Alarm systems can be on a dedicated circuit that bypasses the main breaker. When I leave I pull the main breaker and know that there is NO electric on in the entire shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 The foot switches I've used are spring loaded to off position. So one foot on the switch, one foot on the treadle of the hammer? Wouldn't want it for the kind of work I do. As to saving electricity I suspect turning on and off the motor for each heat will use more juice because of the high starting amps than just letting the motor idle with no or low load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironwolfforgeca Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 I Have a master beaker switch box lockable on/off for safety, when hammer is not in use then I have a 220 reg switch like youre room light switch just 220 V on the bass of my hammer that I can use my foot to turn on or off PH a safety foot switch would be better yet this works well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 I have a mechanical hammer and it behaves better when it idles. Belts and bearings warm up, lube moves into all the right places, etc. My shop also has a lot of motors in it and several 3-phase machines running off a phase converter but I have never been able to see a noticeable increase in the utility bill when I'm busy - our household AC unit has more impact during the hot months. I'm not knocking foot pedal switches but I see them more as a convenience than anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 The foot switches I've used are spring loaded to off position. So one foot on the switch, one foot on the treadle of the hammer? Wouldn't want it for the kind of work I do. As to saving electricity I suspect turning on and off the motor for each heat will use more juice because of the high starting amps than just letting the motor idle with no or low load. I'm not thinking that kind of switch, but one with an on and an off position, probably a push button type though a wide rocker switch would work, too. I did think about the higher load on startup, but would it really suck more juice with startup than it would sitting on during reheats? It is possible, though, I'll have to see if I can find some numbers. Having it warmed up is something to think about, too, but I think that's something I'd only be able to tell from experience with my own hammer to see how it behaves. It's something to bear in mind, though. Lots of good thoughts, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 Foot switches scare me a bit and only seem useful for a few pieces of equipment. Say a roll mill/forge iron worker, etc. Leaving a power hammer idle shouldn't use a lot of power, not much load. You have a point about heats, especially if you're doing heavy stock. I can't remember a time a piece in the forge surprised me when it was hot. The times I was distracted by someone else in the shop were MY problem, not the equipment. Still, a switch, especially a foot switch on something with the number of pinch points and head bashers my LG has is a no sale for me. Having it idle means a constant tool song which is a definite warning to keep away. Nobody's going to accidentally step on the treadle. My LG is a living breathing entity when the motor's running, she speaks to everybody in the shop, says, "keep back, don't mess with me." If I did need a switch like it sounds you want, I'd put it on the forge so I could turn the hammer on when I pull the stock and turn it off when I put it in. Running the power to the switch could make a trip hazard though, I'd have to really give it some thought. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted September 5, 2014 Author Share Posted September 5, 2014 I grew up around them, so maybe I'm just used to them. The pinch points and head bashers are the reason I wanted a foot switch, since I can get it away from moving parts and reach it from where I am standing to work at it. I do like the thought of having the on/off at the forge, though. Wiring it could be easy or difficult depending on the layout of the shop, but it would certainly work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 I like the idea of a foot switch that you could kick on. And "always off" shielded switch sounds nice, but I can see it being problematic as you wanted to move around the hammer. With one foot on the treadle and one on the switch, it seems you'd be dancing a merry jig. Definitely something to think about as I plan for my hammer build..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 Strike while the iron is hot….why waste heat waiting for the hammer to start up? I think you will save more energy (heating fuel, electricity and kinetic) and have easier forging, fewer heats and arguably have a better product on many levels as a result... You definitely want the hammer up and running by the time you are walking towards it with a bit of hot metal wherever you position the switch. I would think the equivalent convenience of your grandfather's hands-free machine switches is given by the hammer's treadle. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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