Loneforge Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 52100 kitchen knife with nickle silver guard,nickle and black spacers with dyed Buckeye burl. Ground appleseed on the right, flat on the left. Thanks for looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhitee93 Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 That would be a very welcome addition to my kitchen! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch4ging Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Very nice! Love thw buckeye burl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakersteve Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Beautiful craftsmanship Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheoRockNazz Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Flawless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 You are raising the bar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K. Bryan Morgan Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Man your skills are off the charts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted April 2, 2014 Author Share Posted April 2, 2014 Thanks guys. Much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Is the bias grind to emulate a chisel edge? Beautiful work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted April 2, 2014 Author Share Posted April 2, 2014 Not sure what you mean Rockstar? I appleseed ground the right side so food falls away from the blade instead if sticking....The flat side is ground with a primary bevel....the appleseed side is ground right to the edge. Does this answer your question? Thanks, Darren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 I've seen some Japanese cutlery where they have a chisel grind for exactly the same reason you mentioned. The two big differences being that they don't have a bevel on one face, and they have a flat grind on the other. Boning knives are sometimes ground the same way. I've never seen a knife that had a bevel grind on one side and a convex grind on the other. For that matter, I don't think I've ever seen a knife with a convex grind on one side and a flat face on the other either. It's an interesting proposition - I'd love to try side by side comparisons to see how they'd work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camero68 Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 It's a beauty! Fantastic blade and gorgeous handle, like that colors on the dyed Buckeye burl. Excellent work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhartironwerks Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 The transition about a third of the way down the blade seems awfully harsh to me and will most likely create an uneven cutting flow. Also, the bolster doesn't seem to quite equal the space where the tang enters the handle (pic 2). Maybe that's just in the photo angle. Most of the chefs who have purchased my knives want a rounded spine and choil to make a pinch grip easier. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 John I see what yer saying about the blade transition and thanks for the tip. The bolster does protrude slightly above and below the shoulders of the tang, it is also tapered towards the blade so it has no harsh edges. Are you saying it should flow right in the blade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhartironwerks Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 I'm just relating what the feedback is that I'm getting from those chefs who are better than me at scrambling eggs. Most want a rounded choil and rounded spine to make it easier to work with for long hrs chopping. At the Mt Hood Western States Conf last Aug, MS Bill Burke spent about 1/2 hr with me looking at my blades and making suggestions as to how to improve them. First, and foremost, was to make them thinner and work on the distal taper (flat grind). Second, is to make the transition from the tip to the heel in increments of thirds with the last third being flat for clean cut chopping. In other words, a smooth flow to the flat third. Think cutting green onions etc. That's about all I can suggest as was related to me by someone who makes excellent blades. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhartironwerks Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 As an addendum, I've been looking up the thicknesses of Japanese blades at the spine/heel and have been trying to emulate some of those figures in my blades where possible. My blades have been much heavier overall and I can see that I need to make them thinner. MS Bob Kramer suggested that hunting blades should be closer to kitchen blades in thickness as they are simply used to eviscerate animals, and are not used as camping knives. I agree with this premise. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 "Simply used to eviscerate" Really? :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 Thanks John, much appreciated. Your kitchen knives are well done and I will keep these things in mind as I make the next one. It's easy to make a knife.....not so easy to make good ones. Any and all tips or critiques I get only get me further in my journey to "Almost Excellent". Up until now I didn't know what an Eviscerate was.....Thanks again John. Darren. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Evisceration often pecedes exsanguination :ph34r: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhartironwerks Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Come on and fess up. You went to the thesaurus for that one. :) John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Exsanguination may begin and end rapidly with the delivery of a well placed shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 :lol: Good point, Rich John, I read the word in a novel once and had to look it up. Been in my vocabulary ever since ;) But I confess, I did mis-spell it at first LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 How do you like working with 52100? I may be able to get some 5/8" dia. bar from work, and was thinking of doing a blade. Any tips? Some details on how you made this one would be nice. Beautiful knife BTW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 52100 is hard forging unless you keep it hot......And I like forging with anything so I'm not sure how to answer that one. :) As far as tips are concerned take a close look at the knife I forged and finished and then read the posts from John at Gearhart Iron works. If I had 5/8 bar stock I would have forged an integral. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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