Anachronist58 Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 MsLisaJ Don't forget that the members of this Forum really enjoy three things: PICTURES, PHOTOS, and IMAGES!!! Be sure to post pictures of your projects as prolifically as possible! :rolleyes: Robert Taylor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mslisaj Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Well I don't have pictures of my anvil stand as I have been working on restoring this old Buffalo Forge that was a garden ornament for the last 30 years. I'm going to put a rear braked drum in it for the actual fire pit and I think it will be just about perfect. Enjoy......... Lisa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 My friend Gina (whom I will introduce you to) has one of those forges. They do work, but those little stamped steel blowers just don't woof out the air like other systems do. I would recommend not spending too much energy on that forge other than what you've done until you work out on Ginas forge. I'll have some forges for sale from an estate I'm helping with, soon.mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notownkid Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Glad you bought it, if nothing else it's a starter anvil and will help you get down the road for as long as you want. Now if that anvil could talk with it would teach you a lot of blacksmith knowledge and worth it's weight in gold. Good Luck Once you get going you'll never sell it either, might replace it but you'll keep it as it's your first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyS Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Good afternoon I have a Henry Wright which is my favourite anvil, the weight is as stamped at 137lb, my question is if you want a sharp edge wouldn't it be best to just dress down the sides or one side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mslisaj Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Good afternoon I have a Henry Wright which is my favourite anvil, the weight is as stamped at 137lb, my question is if you want a sharp edge wouldn't it be best to just dress down the sides or one side.Hi Tony, That's a reasonable idea too. But the reality for me is right now the anvil is working for me fine. The more I get into this hobby I will be building a hardy anvil that will have the sharp edge. I have to commend you on your idea though as I don't see any reason that would not work too and you could be careful and preserve the great rebound of this anvil and not risk losing the temper through unwanted heating. For now, the edges are not an issue for me. I just love having an anvil instead of my good old vise to beat on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anachronist58 Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Good afternoon I have a Henry Wright which is my favourite anvil, the weight is as stamped at 137lb, my question is if you want a sharp edge wouldn't it be best to just dress down the sides or one side. Arrrggghh! As Horribly blown-out as my Soderfors 88#'er is, I don't know that I could bear to do that. I could hardly bear to dress down the top, and most of the disfigurement remains - I too will get my 'sharp' edges by the addition of a Hardy Anvil. Real Blacksmiths are welcome to view my affection for my anvil and my sentimentality as a Character Flaw - Guilty I am. MsLisaJ, Good looking clean-up on your Buffalo. It will be a great pleasure, I think, to take your first glowing heat from it, and express yourself on the Henry Wright. Keep us posted. Robert and Sheila Taylor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 These threads regarding making edge hardies from jackhammer bits should be of use to you. Forging something large like this you'll want someone to assist as a striker and always, always, always, only work it when it's hot. As soon as you've lost color or even before stop so you don't risk breaking the heel of your anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 The "soul" of the anvil is the usually quite thin face plate. Dressing it down to get sharp corners is rather like trying to speed up your race car by lightening it by cutting the engine out. Also if you read the 120+ year old smithing books they mention that the first thing you should do with a new anvil is to ROUND the sharp edges so as not to leave cold shuts in your work. If you need a sharp edge for some special task make a hardy tool with 4 you can use. I advise people to only remove as much of the face plate by grinding or milling as they are willing to remove from their own face! (and do it to your own face first!) I have one anvil that had fine pitting all over the face due to being stored in an unheated shed near a swampy creek for 50 years. I brused the loose rust off and then USED it. Working hot steel on is will polish it up nicely---the area over the sweet spot is pretty much polished out now. I am much more in favour of build up using CORRECT METHODS of welding on anvils (cf Gunter method repairing anvils) than removing face thickness. (and build up is rarely needed---use an anvil till you *know* what it needs and not what you guess it needs) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mslisaj Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 Thank you gentlemen for all your contributions, compliments and idea's. For now I tend to agree with Thomas that I can't do any grinding or repair on this anvil. Before I actually took possession of this anvil I was so concerned about the "edges". They looked awful to me and "I just had to fix them". But now that I have used it, albeit it's still sitting on the floor and I have to get busy with a stand, the edges aren't that bad compared to pictures I have seen. Besides my anvil has a smooth face, great rebound and it's flat and straight. It has the key factors going for it. The only cleanup I have done is with a wire brush and I'm very happy with the results. I want to finish my little forge, heat something up and make anything. But this whole hobby is a project for me and I am enjoying the trip along the way. If this anvil had some kind of keep flaw, like being aneled and no rebound then it may be worth playing with. But considering it's age and all the hammer blows it's endured in it's life it's truly in great shape. Great advice too about now using heaving blows on a hardy anvil with the fear of breaking off that heal. But as a woman I don't swing that big a hammer anyway but the advice is well taken to be careful. Again thank you gentlemen for all your advice and I appreciate it so keep it coming. Lisa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mslisaj Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 Well gentlemen, yesterday I got busy and finally decided to build the stand for my anvil. I ended up raising the original stump that I got with the anvil, leveling the top and bottom and mounting it in this fashion. It came out really nice I think and works very well. Being I am moving away from the topic here of "should this new smith buy this anvil" to building my anvil stand the link below will take you to the build story and the pictures. Again thank you all for all your help and advice. Now I am looking to buy some tools to go with it all. I have one pair of tongs but I'm looking for others and I need the real blacksmith hammer too. I have noticed that you pro's use a special hammer and I am looking for one now. But this hobby and project are coming together nicely. Check out this link and thank you again for all your help and advice. Lisa'?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 I'm with Tommas, if I did any thing I'd blend the edges so I could use those radiuses as work serfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 I definitely use a "special hammer" and that's the one that's to hand---even used a clawhammer once welding up a billet as a demo for a fellow. More important is dressing the face of the hammer you are using than using some special hammer: Lets see last night I used: a lynch collection hammer, a 2.5# double jack, an 8# sledge, a very small body hammer, a sweedish crosspeen and a french crosspeen---I was teaching and so generally used the hammer that the student in question was using to show that it wasn't an issue with the hammer... And for one student a new saying: "Less time on the net; more time on the anvil!" I need to bring a coal forge down to teach him not to abandon work in it while "playing on his smart phone"... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 A coal forge and tool steel will teach you real fast not to get distracted. Multiple times I've gotten distracted to respond to someone's email usually regarding when they can stop by to pick something up to realize I just burned what I was making. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mslisaj Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 Well the type of hammer that I think of is a "Rounding Hammer". I have many other various hammers that will certainly work but nothing like the design of a rounding hammer. In doing my research I'm finding that I may be able to buy one new even. But one with a little history would be nice too. But my next project here will be to make a rack that will fit around my stand to hold tools and hammers. I like this hobby. Lisa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mslisaj Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Being you gentlemen have been so kind to offer suggestions and help and I previewed my Buffalo Forge here too. Below is the story and pictures of how I built my my fire pan for the little forge. I am sure you will find it interesting and I have been told numerous times "you like pictures" so here you go. I think next week I will build a fire in it, heat myself a piece of something and give it a go with my brand new Nordic Forge "Round Head" hammer that I was able to buy at my local farm supply store. Thanks again Gentlemen! Lisa'?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rthibeau Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 if you need a sharp edge on an anvil....place a length of channel iron (the width of the anvil to fit) and have at it.....when done remove the channel and keep on keeping on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 That is a beautiful anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mslisaj Posted June 20, 2014 Author Share Posted June 20, 2014 Stellar idea on the channel iron top. That would work nicely too. Although I have acquired with a lot of searching nice variety of hardy tools and one of them is a big square block that is hard and has shape edges too. So I am actually moving ahead with this project. I just need more time to practice the art and learn more. I can't believe how useful this anvil is in my daily work too. No longer do I beat up on my big bench vise as now I have a better place to do that kind of work. I have decided to leave the anvil alone as the "chips" are just part of the "history" of this anvil and are not detrimental to the way I use it at all. It has a pristine surface and fabulous rebound so I am not going to play with that at all. I so appreciate the continued advice and thanks for taking your time to comment. Best Regards, Lisa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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