brian robertson Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 The auto dump valve on my Saylor Beall compressor is freezing in the open position, which does not allow for a build up of psi. I primarily use the compressor to run my Big Blu hammer. The compressor lives in an insulated "closet" in an lean to off the shop (keeps in quieter and cleaner). I've been running this set up for 5 yrs without trouble. But I've not had the kind of sub zero temps as we've had this winter. If I lay down and aim my heat gun on the valve for a few minutes I can thaw it out and it will function normally for the rest of the work day. When it does cycle open there is a barely noticeable mist of exhaust. I also leave a 100w light bulb on over night but the next morning when I start the compressor the dump valve is stuck wide open. Any tricks to fix this besides leaving it run 24/7? The profit margin in the forging biz isn't good enough these days to warrant wasting electricity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Heating tape? Maybe wrap it around the valve. Or...a pan heater like for automobile engines or adapt a fitting to use a block heater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Greetings from Lake City, You might try to remount the valve using a " T" and a drop leg with a plug .. This may allow any moisture to collect in the drop leg.. You could add a blow down valve and exhaust it after the days work is done.,. I hope this helps ... Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian robertson Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Jim, not a lot of clearance under this vertical rig. I think I'll give the company a call on Monday. Could be the valve has gone bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 100 watt light bulb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian robertson Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 Does anybody know what the insides of one of these valves look like? I'm curious how well it would withstand constant heat from a light bulb. If I could get a splash of anti freeze inside the tank would it work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Greetings Again Brian,, If you are going to chemistry I would try Isopropal alcohol ( just plain rubbing alcohol ) It absorbs water freely and vaporizes quickly. Again I hope this helps... Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian robertson Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 The new valve is only $125 and it's no long used on the commercial duty compressors; too many problems with them. Well isn't that special. The service guy thought I was lucky that mine has been trouble free this long. I guess I'll be playing with my heat gun any time there's hammer work to be done. With this cold, rerouting the plumbing on that machine will have to wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Larson Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Brian. if your valve is designed to dump at start up, maybe you can trick it by shutting off and restarting. That way it would dump warm water from the day's activities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian robertson Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 John, it dumps when the compressor cycles off when it reaches 175 psi. When it's warmer, I'll try taking it a part and cleaning it before replacing or re plumbing it. I think Saylor Bealle was trying to make their machine idiot proof and it didn't work out so well. For some folks, it must be too hard to remember to dump the gra doo out of the tank. We were trained, as kids, on the farm trucks with air brakes. ONLY ONCE was I responsible for frozen brakes on a semi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Brian, condensate dump valves see a nasty combo of oil, water and pollen dust etc. Most get more or less glued tight. The best valve for this service is a manual ball valve opened by the operator evry 4 hours and or at the end of use. Second best type is a ball valve with an automatic motor drive with timer. You can find these made up ready to install. The motor runs in the same direction so at the timer it turns for a set time, then turns farther to seal. then repeats on the timer. These can last for decades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Greetings again again Brian, What I did to my large compressors is to remove the dump valve and replace it with a 20 ft air line coiled up under the unit . I installed a simple ball valve in the end to dump the water .... What this does is to allow the water to build up in the hose and not in the tank to rust... Worked for me... Good luck Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Jim, that's absolute genius! You the man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironwolfforgeca Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 I agree with Mike you're the man -- I can see a sm water holding tank with ball dump valve for my compressor Ho just in case theres a lot of water I will install a Beer can holder in the area LOL :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJS Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Jim you don't think outside the box, you just don't have a box at all :-) I love guys like you... Problems are just opportunities disguised as trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Old Truckers put some Methyl Hydrate in their air tanks. K.I.S.S. It stops the freeze inside the Air Brake Tanks, some travels through the system in a tiny vapour. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Most compressors running up here have deicers, basic alcohol bottles that add a bit regularly, I wish I remember what they're called. They're off the shelf most anywhere from auto/truck parts stores and hardware stores. Jim, using an air hose as a water trap is elegant in its simplicity. My hat's off to you Bro. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Edgar Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Most compressors running up here have deicers, basic alcohol bottles that add a bit regularly, I wish I remember what they're called. They're off the shelf most anywhere from auto/truck parts stores and hardware stores. Jim, using an air hose as a water trap is elegant in its simplicity. My hat's off to you Bro. Frosty The Lucky. In the summer when the air is too warm to condense the moisture, I coil the air line up in a container of cold water to act as a heat exchanger to give the water traps a fighting chance to catch the droplets of water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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