matrix2362 Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Has anyone here ever had their anvil's surface machined, and is it worth getting done? I have a very old anvil with a decent surface but has a bunch of narrow dings that are about 1/16" to 1/8" deep. The hardened top plate is about an inch thick. Would it make work easier for me if I had it machined just below the dings or would it weaken my anvil? Thanks ahead of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herb Upham Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 My personal preference is to not machine and use as-is. If surface finish is critical to you, then grinding or machining is an alternative but you want to minimize the material removed. Often the surface will have a depression that will cause a lot more material to be removed than just to reach the bottom of the dings. Also, 1" thick is a bit unusual, however you did not identify your anvil, which would be useful in replying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njanvilman Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 I have never seen or heard of an anvil with a 1" thick top plate. There are some solid cast steel anvils out there that are steel throughout. Even my 800 lb Fisher anvil has only a 5/8" top plate. Blanchard grinding or surface grinding might work, but only if the top is parallel to the bottom. Most people with dings in their anvil just use it; eventually many of the dings will smooth themselves out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 The face plate of your anvil is it's uselife. I generally advise people to machine/grind off only as much thickness as they are willing to remove from their own face using the same methods. 1" is very thick indeed, though many anvils have a "false faceplate" to make them look like they have a very thick plate. What brand is it? If it's a cast iron ASO then machining won't cause issues---but won't last long either. And as mentioned anvils are often not parallel between face and base having been freehanded under large steam hammers. I personally have seen several anvils where people milled completely through the face at one end or the other not taking this into account. If you absolutely must mill your anvil, first fasten it face down to the mill and make the base parallel to the face and then flip it over an lightly kiss the face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matrix2362 Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 I was actually about to seek guidance on ID’ing my anvil. The hardened top plate is 1” maybe more. The only markings that can be seen are a large five point star on one side and I.S.F. in large stamped letters on the other side. It also has I.S.F. stamped twice on the bottom. I’m guessing the “F” is for farrier. Any info on it would be greatly appreciated. Here are some pictures, sorry for the size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy Ivan Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Star anvil, American made. No Idea what the ISF stands for though. Maybe someone on here with the 'Anvils in America' book has more info on years manufactured, quality, etc. As for the faceplate being 1" thick, from what I understand, The step from the face to the cutting block usually dictates the rough thickness of the tool steel face, though it does seem to be slightly thicker then the step... As far as machining goes, if you must, Thomas is right about the way in which it must be machined and make sure that wherever you take it, they go about it in that order. -Crazy Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njanvilman Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Do not touch that top. The Star anvil has a steel top over a cast iron body. They were made in a similar manner as Fisher anvils, except for the oval core. The top is not too thick. What you think is a 1" top is only a casting mark, not the faceplate. American Star anvils were made from about 1855 to 1870 in Trenton, NJ, by a former employee of Fisher. He started his own company just down the street. Fisher sued, but lost. Star was out of business by 1870 anyway. I do not believe the stamping are factory. I think someone put those initials on the anvil to identify the owner. Contact me via PM if you are interested in a trade for a Fisher. I also collect Star anvils. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matrix2362 Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 Thanks. Yeah, I really have no desire to take anything off of it. I was told that the smoother your anvils surface is, the less work it is to put a nice finish on your work. I am thinking of just making a finishing hardy, one that fits in the hardy hole and runs along the top of the anvil and had a smooth top. I would just use the anvil to beat the work into shape. I kind of have a personal attachment to the anvil and don't see myself letting it go or trading it. I stumbled on it a few years ago and paid $120 for it. Still haven't gotten all that crappy outdoor black paint off it. It has about a 1/16" coat of it and an angle grinder with a wire wheel just polishes it rather than removes it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vapremac Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 I say I'd have to agree with the fine recommendations that have been previously posted strongly advising you against it. From studying the pics, I believe that .125" is on the light side of even beginning to clean up the face. No disrespect........but have a machine shop quote it...........that might put some thoughts in perspective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matrix2362 Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 They are not that deep, it is just that crappy black paint in the dings that make it look deeper than they are. When I first got it, someone was using it as a doorstop and had painted the entire thing. Any recommendations on a strong paint thinner/stripper? Thanks for all the experienced advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Don't touch the face. 99% of blacksmithing is rather "rough" in appearance and tolerances are kept around plus-or-minus a sixteenth of an inch - at best. The cuts in that face will not have a detrimental effect on your works, and most of them will be filled with the scale forming from your work. I wouldn't hesitate to buy an anvil that nice, and I wouldn't let the scars in the face deter me from working on it all day long. A lot of internet rumors will have you scratching your head, but the best thing you can do is simply pound iron on that lass and see what it looks like. I'm sure you'll be happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njanvilman Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 I have used a methyl chloride based paint stripper on several anvils. Always done outdoors, with heavy rubber gloves and face and eye protection. Best done in the warm weather. Heat seems to activate the chemicals. Then wire wheeling. Repeat if needed. It has worked on most paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Wouldn't just putting it to use get rid of the paint and clean the face? I draw knife profiles on mine frequently in permanent marker when forging knives and rarely does the outline survive 3 heats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenforge Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 One thing to remember is that the dent is just displaced material and often can be moved back thus eliminating most of the damage. If those are actual cuts where material was removed not miuch you can do. I would work with it as it is. If you need a very smooth finish on an item make a tool for the hardie hole. Usually those fine finishing strikes are relatively light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foremans Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Hi this may sound completely mad but is the idea of welding a large new top table plate to the Anvil face be acceptable - if the old Baz was prepped level ? I have some old anvils that are just to good in design to throw out but I have contemplated welding new tops on them with cut tool steel 1/2 plate to the same Rockwell as an anvil should be with the Hardie hole machine cut to match the Anvil Hardie They are a bit soft now on the tops and dent quite easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Welcome aboard A quick look through this sub forum and you will have your answer. https://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/269-repairing-and-modification-to-anvils/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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