Aljeter Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 So a few years ago I bought a stainless steel box 9"x18"x22" for about $10. I put it storage and forgot about it until I was looking for my torch set. I got to thinking about what I could do with it and thought maybe it would be good for a quench tank.What do yall think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Furrer Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 The only issue is having a large exposed surface area IF there is a flashover when using oil. You need to be able to snuff the flame and a large area like that makes it an issue. Then again...you have a lid. Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmoothBore Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 For years, I've been using a Stainless "vat" from an old deep fat fryer. Couldn't be happier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aessinus Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Years ago, I made one about the same size from an electrical enclosure. Worked like a champ using hydraulic oil for the high flash point. Even so, the lid put a stop to flash fires. Just don't make a tight seal so the gases can vent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george m. Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 I've always thought that having the lid of an oil quench tank hinged is a good idea. Before you quench you prop the lid up to close to vertical and then if there is a flash fire you just have to tap the lid and it goes over exactly where it should go with no hassle or fumbling. Extinguishingly, George M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Search "Oil Quenching Container" or have a look at my gallery for pictures of my quench tank made from a 40 pound propane tank. You will see that the domed tank top is used as a lid ( the dome side flipped and hinged drops down to seal the tank with a tight seal ) The lid domed side down really does seal the tank, really wedges home . An old metal wheel barrow wheel was used as a base. I also fabed a basket tray with a long handle to catch whatever you pitch into the tank. The tight seal of the dome dropping down to seal the tank reduces the amount of smoke being released into the shop. I have been very pleased with this QTank . The 40 pound tank size will hold enough oil to quench power hammer dies , hammers, and other similar sized forgings. Here is a link to the thread - Go to post No. 18: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/16859-oil-quenching-container/#entry210050 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 I use a swimming pool DE filter as my quench tank. I keep it full of water and it is plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Just called a local dive shop as I was wondering what they did with any steel tanks that fail inspection. Guy told me he'd sell me as many as I wanted for $5, so other than a quench tank what other uses do y'all think they could be used for? Plan on welding a heavy steel plate to the bottom to keep it upright, cutting & hinging the top. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Wot are dive tanks made from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Pulling info from this website as it has lots more info than I want to type, http://www.divegearexpress.com/library/tanks.shtml I realized later my question was vague w/o providing specifics on the dimensions. The HP ones are the steel ones, the AL aluminum and LP I don't know. Height Tanks 17 Inches HP65 20-21 Inches AL63, LP66, HP80 24 Inches LP80, LP95, HP100, HP119 26 Inches AL80, AL100, LP85, LP104 28-30 Inches LP120, HP120, HP130 "Most primary tanks, aluminum or steel, are the common diameter of 7-¼ inches...Some of the larger-capacity high-pressure tanks, such as the HP119 and HP130, are also 8 inches in diameter, although the HP120 is a 7-¼ inch tank" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 i suggested you find out the material as i think most of them are light weight and your thought on welding may need revision...however a stand made from steel may hold it fine.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Looks like I should've read that entire webpage as it'd be unsafe to weld on them anyway regardless of how thick the steel is. "Uncoated steel tanks quickly rust in the presence of water, so all steel tanks are coated with zinc. There are two zinc coating processes for steel tanks: dip galvanizing and spray galvanizing." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 In case anyone did wonder, I found the following on the thickness of material in dive tanks. Close to 3/16" on steel, but galvanized. "Acccording to the DOT specs, Steel 72s must have a minimum wall thickness of .164 at manufacture, but tend to run thicker, say, .180 or so. The are usually a bit thicker at the top and bottom. Aluminum 80s have a miniumum DOT thickness of .491", and in real life run about .521" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petere76 Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Gents, Quench tank, quick and easy.... Military surplus, M2 , 50 cal, vehicle mounted, ammo cans. The Ma Duce is the gold standard for bad neighborhoods and these ammo cans make excellent sealable storage containers. After humping these things around, I would never of thought that they would have such a useful second life. They have a tight fitting cover with gasket for quick and effective fire suppression. Additionally, they are deep and long enough to accommodate a wide range of sizes. We keep one in the shop filled with marine grade hydraulic fluid. Works well for our needs and it doesn't present any storage or hazmat issues. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 This is just a little side note to this thread. You don't have to worry about more than a little flash when quenching in oil IF you completely submerge the piece quickly. If you leave a little out of the oil it'll boil the oil and it'll flash, once the surface gets hot enough, above it's flash point, the tank will start burning. Just plunge the blade completely under the oil and a little whoosh is all you'll get. Heat transfer or quenching oil isn't that expensive and has excellent qualities, HIGH flash point, very good heat transfer and very high boiling point. Of course that's just my experience and I'm not a blade guy so I only do tool steel for tools and commissions. . . Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chinobi Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 i spoke with an older smith once who also recommended using surplus ammo cans for quench oils, the only thing i would add is that if they are in good enough shape they are air and water tight when sealed, good for spill protection. getting back to dcraven's dive tank plan, why not avoid welding directly to the tank and just make a little circular frame 6 inches tall or so that you can weld to the base plate and then bolt the dive tank into that with set screws? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 As to other uses, steel tanks make exelent bells. That reminds me, I need to build a new gate bell. Need to know when to put up the dog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 I'm going to try something with the dive tank. It was too cheap and convenient to pass by, especially after what I saw knots did with a propane tank, http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/16859-oil-quenching-container/#entry210050. I like that setup. I figure I can make a square base out of angle iron that fits tight around the bottom and then weld that onto some heavy scrap plate that I have. If I do any welding on the galvanized tank it would be minimal and outside with cross ventilation, blowing the fumes away from me. Frosty, I also use an oil quench for finishing when I want a tool or item darkened. Some cases things have been too large for the metal container bucket I've been using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Private Entrance Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 I worked in a shop that had a hydrostatic testing facility for SCUBA tanks attached to it. They are anything other than what you might call 'lightweight.' Most of them are rated for about 4500 psi, give or take and can take a fair amount of beating. I hadn't thought of using them for quench tanks. I thought the steel ones would work pretty well for swages - cut them length wise, the bottoms off, etc. Definitely wouldn't weld or heat them - they are galvanized or coated in most cases. The guys at the shop, if they know their stuff, should be able to tell you exactly what the tanks are made out of. We had a chart on the wall with each mfg's specs for each tank model they had ever made, and IIRC, the alloy was listed for the steel made tanks. PS - make sure they are EMPTY and preferably don't have valves on them when you buy them so you are 100% sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Here's the quench tank I made this weekend from a steel 70 dive tank and some scrap metal I had lying around. The inside thickness of the tank was at least 3/16", which was thick enough to weld on with a 220 arc welder. I didn't have any issues burning thru or the welds not sticking. As all dive tanks are galvanized I did the welding outside with a cross wind and a large fan on high to ensure any fumes blew away from me. This should hold at least 3 gallons, maybe a little more, I only had 2 gallons of used motor oil on hand which filled it slightly less than 2/3rd's. I still need to fabricate a dipper or steel net to rest on the bottom to lift things out with. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Quench Tank Catch Basket. Here is mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Thanks Knots, that picture is exactly what I needed! FYI, I based my quench tank on what you did with the propane tank. How many gallons does that one hold? http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/16859-oil-quenching-container/#entry210050 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 My QT is made from a 40 pound tank I don't remember how much oil that I put in it but it should easily hold 5 gallons. I have quenched power hammer dies in it without any problem. For one off projects it handle most needs without over heating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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