Dale M. Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 IS it fair to cheat when making anvil tools.... Today I acquired a piece of 1 1/8 inch oil well sucker rod which I spent some time with working it down to 3/4 inch to fit my anvils hardy hole... I intend to cut it about 1 1/2 inches above anvil surface and MIG WELD two lengths of 5/8 rod on each side to make a bending tool....This brings up if I want to make other tools (easily) is it really cheating to just get a length of 3/4 inch stock that fits my anvils hardy hole and "fabricate" the tools using the 3/4 inch stock as a "base" instead of drawing out the large stock then upsetting neck of tool so it drops in and not wedge in hardy hole...I worked today on this to a point my arm was so fatigued my hammer blows were starting to loose the accuracy and it became a point where muscles were so fatigued it was difficult to raise the hammer...Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norseman C.B. Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 I prefer function over form myself, if it works to fabricate it, do it !! My $.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCal Dave Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 I'm with C.B. It's the process of making things that's really important. Who cares except you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 As you neither have a striker or a power hammer, I'd fabricate my first set of tools. After using them and modifying them to work for you, I would then forge replacements, say with forge welded shoulders on the shank and tool steel working surfaces ect. I am a bit hard headed, and tend to not take my own advice and do things the hard way. My family gets very scarce when I'm forging anything larger than 5/8 square. I also have a lot of paper weights ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale M. Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 As you neither have a striker or a power hammer, I'd fabricate my first set of tools.You just had to mention a power hammer....I have only been at this new adventure since early December and already can see where a power hammer has a great advantage to forming steel (watched to many Youtube "hammer" videos) ..... Aaaaah, maybe some day... Think I need to just learn to use a "arm-strong" hammer first....Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 The closest thing I have to a power hammer is a 14# strait pein, and my family disappears when I bring it out. I drool over them too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thingmaker3 Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 In order for there to be "cheating," somebody has to come up with "rules." ;) I make up my own rules as I go along. Here are a couple examples which might apply to making bottom tools: If it works, it works. If it costs too much, try something else next time. If it takes an unholy amount of time, try something else on the next go. If somebody else comes up with a better way, try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 If it gets the job done, it is legal (hah). If you are working inside the box, WHO BUILT THE BOX????? Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale M. Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 Ok... Well I threw away the "box"..... Here is finished tool.... Yes one prong is larger than the other, it was a inspiration as I was beginning to cut the rods, one is 1/2 inch the other is 5/8 as I may want to have different radius for some tight bends....Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Looks plenty adequate to me. Congrats now Carry on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLMartin Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 I am guessing sucker rod is tools steel? If it is tool steel its a waste to use it for a bending fork base. It would be easier to use mild steel for something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Use what you have, and work it how you can. One of my rules is to consider how much it would cost in time and fuel (and you have to figure in overhead if you want a realistic cost analysis), and then look to see if I can buy it at that cost or cheaper. Burning up $100 worth of fuel and elbow grease to make a tool you could have bought for $5 is a bit silly, right? Sure, the skills needed to make that tool are important skills you need to learn, but you need to prioritize. Forging tongs, for example, is a great skill to have, but you can buy awesome tongs at the flea market for cheaper than you can make them. I'd love to have a power hammer, and I see a ton of neat projects I won't even think about trying because I don't have one. Until that time, I'll use a welder all that I can to save my time, energy, fuel and frustration level. Ya did good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale M. Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 I am guessing sucker rod is tools steel? If it is tool steel its a waste to use it for a bending fork base. It would be easier to use mild steel for something like that.There is the availability factor at work here..... Piece of sucker rod was "picked up" along side of road and is a cut off from crew building a pipe and rod ranch fence.... Nearest metal supplier is almost 40 miles from me... You work with what you have.....Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EGreen Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 I use a lot of bolts for things like that.sucker rod hard to come by. cut off the head an threads an go to work.good job on the fork Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricJergensen Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 If your object is to get a useful tool, fabrication is a great option. The reason arc welding is a big trade and smithing is a hobby is that welding is very time-efficient. If you are trying to extend your smithing skills, then building tooling is great. I still think fabricating the first one is a good idea. Gives you a tool quickly and let's you get an idea of how you use it. Later on, use that understanding to make a tool you'll be more proud of. I can get sucker rod cheaper than I can get scrap iron, so for me it's not a waste. What I've gotten isn't tool steel by more rigorous standards. Works and hardens like 4140, which isn't bad. In a pinch, I'll make a cold chisel with it. (Canola oil quench, very light temper.) Makes nice tongs. Just don't get too eager with the quenching: you definitely don't want to harden tongs and I've cracked it cooling it down to work the other end. I've also cracked it working too cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aessinus Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Assuming nothing has changed since the early 80's, sucker rod, drill stem, upset tubing are 4140 QT (quenched & tempered). Working with 20-40 foot joints in the air would bend lesser stuff. Around here they are fairly easy to come by from the pipe yard scrap pile in smaller bits. If you weld it & can lay hold of 7018 rod, clean/prep your joint really nice & you can forge the welds when your done, if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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