Loneforge Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 5160 Blade, Nickel Silver guard and Buttcap. Elk Antler grip. This is the first blade I've finished with my new belt grinder. Slightly faster than the files! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homeshow Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Send it over to the house along with 1 of your older knives and ill compare the 2. Of course I'd need to keep both as a fee for inspecting them. Really nice work. I plan on making a boot knife along those lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted January 15, 2013 Author Share Posted January 15, 2013 You'd do that for me.....Thanks Homeshow, what a great guy! Thanks for the compliment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 what did you use for the dye on the elk ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Looks great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
switchjv Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Thats a nice one right there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted January 15, 2013 Author Share Posted January 15, 2013 Watco dark walnut Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Watco dark walnut Steve idea stolen thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kearnach Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Gorgeous knife bro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Loneforge plus grinder,,,,,,,wow!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylor Made Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Looks good! Nice clean looking blade. Good fit and finish. I have used the dark walnut stain on a few whitetail antlers on some knives. The sheds I find sometimes are a little sun bleached. The stain works great, but I find it wears off after a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhartironwerks Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Hey, Did whack that elk just for the antler? If so, please send some backstrap for favorable comments. :) John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 If I may I'd like to comment on the staining. I am a professional finisher with vast experience, so I do have some expertise to share. Watco oil has some nice colors and is easy to use. It offers poor binder content (the clear medium that glues the colors to the finished item) and also has strong dye content that tends to fade over the long term. There are better ways! An easy one for such things as knife handles is to use epoxy mixed with a bit of universal paint tinter. It wouldn't take much raw umber or burnt umber to get a similar result and these pigments are remarkably persistent (they last a LONG time). The epoxy will outwear the Watco oil finish by many years as well. Rub it in well and it will also help to stabilize the surface of the horn, bone or wood handles and fill in any cracks. I have used this method many times and it never fails me! One thing to keep in mind that is rather poorly known is that epoxies produce a waxy surface as they cure (called an amine blush) and will sometimes seem sticky long after they ought to be cured. This blush can be removed easily with a damp cloth. This is especially important if you plan to apply another coat as the blush can interfere with intercoat adhesion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted January 16, 2013 Author Share Posted January 16, 2013 If I may I'd like to comment on the staining. I am a professional finisher with vast experience, so I do have some expertise to share. Watco oil has some nice colors and is easy to use. It offers poor binder content (the clear medium that glues the colors to the finished item) and also has strong dye content that tends to fade over the long term. There are better ways! An easy one for such things as knife handles is to use epoxy mixed with a bit of universal paint tinter. It wouldn't take much raw umber or burnt umber to get a similar result and these pigments are remarkably persistent (they last a LONG time). The epoxy will outwear the Watco oil finish by many years as well. Rub it in well and it will also help to stabilize the surface of the horn, bone or wood handles and fill in any cracks. I have used this method many times and it never fails me! One thing to keep in mind that is rather poorly known is that epoxies produce a waxy surface as they cure (called an amine blush) and will sometimes seem sticky long after they ought to be cured. This blush can be removed easily with a damp cloth. This is especially important if you plan to apply another coat as the blush can interfere with intercoat adhesion. Thank-you.....Some good info here. How do you apply this epoxy to the horn? Brush it on?? What brand or type of epoxies are you using. I plan to do more horns in the future so any more input here would be greatly appreciated. Darren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhettbarnhart Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 ABSOLUTELY STUNNING!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homeshow Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Loneforge it really is a great looking knife. BFnapa great ideas I will be sterling those too thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Thank-you.....Some good info here. How do you apply this epoxy to the horn? Brush it on?? What brand or type of epoxies are you using. I plan to do more horns in the future so any more input here would be greatly appreciated. Darren I usually use Loctite Professional Extra Time Epoxy... but there are better epoxies available. This is handy and I have had good results with it. It claims to be a 60 minute epoxy but about two days is more accurate IME. Generally the fastest epoxies have poorer performance in most categories. Epoxies DO tend to yellow as they age... not too noticeable on dark stained work but it will show on white or very light surfaces. Keep the coats very thin over light colored areas or wipe/polish it completely back from these highlight areas. I usually wipe-on or rub it into the pores and cracks with my hands or paper towels. When I want to create more of an overall protective coat I generally use "Breakthrough" clear satin acrylic and tint it as desired. If there are no sizable cracks to fill, I often use this "Breakthrough" instead of the epoxy. "Breakthrough" was recently acquired by PPG and is now available at Porter Paints and many other PPG distributors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted January 16, 2013 Author Share Posted January 16, 2013 Thanks Bigfootnampa .....Good to know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pault17 Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Bigfoot, thanks for the information. even I think I can use it and not screw up too badly. Loneforge, love the shape and finish. you could send one down here any time, and I could brag about you to all my friends Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zigmund Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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