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I Forge Iron

Taylor Made

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Everything posted by Taylor Made

  1. Forged this knife for a retirement gift for a co worker. Forged it from 1095 steel. Full tang. Blade is 8 1/2" OAL. Full flat grind with a satin finish. Hand rubbed to 600 grit. Nice deep choil. Decorative filework on spine of the tang. Brick red liners. Handles sanded by hand to 3000 grit and buffed. Sculpted to fit in hand. Fitted with 1/8" bronze pins and a 1/4" brass lanyard tube. Sheath is 7 oz leather, hand sewn. Full welt. Line 24 brass snap. Antiqued finish and border tooling. I like the way it all came together.
  2. Forged this knife out of a farriers rasp a few weeks ago and got it finished up. Knife has a full flat grind, hand rubbed satin finish. I left a few of the file and rasp marks in the blade to add some character. Blade is 10" OAL. Fitted with stabilized Honduran Rosewood handle scales that have been scupted to fit your hand better. Handles sanded by hand to 800 grit. SS pins and an aluminum lanyard tube. Did some filework on the spine of the tang for a little class. Sheath is a pouch style made from 7 oz leather. Hand sewn with some border tooling. Dyed medium brown. Turned out nice.
  3. Looks great! I really like that size of knife. Anything larger than that is just for show. Good shape, size and finish!
  4. Looks great! I think the cold blue did a good job on the guard and sub hilt. Nice job on the blade and handle as well!
  5. I can relate. Once you get it, your done for. There ain't no turning back after it bites you. Costantly thinking about knives, new designs, new techniques and more power tools!
  6. Thank You! Yeah the forging marks left in it give it a more primitive look. That's what the customer wanted so that is what he got.
  7. Thanks. Everybody likes something a little different. I have done them flush with the guard before and I really don't like the look. I like it seperated myself.
  8. Thanks! Yeah this is more my style compared to the little slicer.
  9. I forged this little slicer a few weeks ago and thought I would share some pics of it. I forged it from an old nicholson file. I filed in a rope pattern on the spine. The blade was clay coated with satenite and differentially heat treated. Giving it a hamon. Not the best one I have done and the pics don't do it much justice, but it shows up in person a lot better. It has a piece of stabilized mesquite burl with a red vulcanized spacer in between the whitetail antler. The blade is super sharp. A nice little slicer. Let me know what you guys think!
  10. Forged this out a few weeks ago. I posted a couple pics of the forged blade in rough forged shape with bevels ground in. I got it finished up and thought I would share some pics. The blade was forged from 1095. It has a 3/4 flat grind with the forging marks left in the flats and the ricasso area. Blade has a scotchbrite satin finish. Kind of a spear point design on the blade. Brass guard, silver soldered on. Black vulcanized spacers with copper spacers alternating filed into the brass guard. Whitetail antler from here in the Ozarks pinned on with a 3/32 brass pin. I used Devcon 2 ton epoxy inside the antler. I left the crown on the antler to give it a old timey look. I really like the way it turned out and it feels real good in your hand. Let me know what you guys think!
  11. Looks awesome! Very clean fit and finish! I like that size of blade.
  12. Very cool! Haven't ever tried to make a folder. Thanks for sharing
  13. I don't ever bother with grinding the teeth off the file. I like the look sometimes. HT- Bring to forging heat, forge shape. Normalize 2 times. Anneal. Grind. Normalize 2 times. Bring to critical, soak a bit, careful not to overheat. Quench. Clean up. Temper at 385 for 1 hour. Let cool to touch. Temper again for 1 hour at 400. Works for me. Haven't had any problems doing it this way, just one way of doing it, but I get real good results. Hope it helps!
  14. Very nice! I like the look! Excellent job. Thanks for sharing.
  15. I would suggest starting with the simple 10xx series steels. Easy to heat treat at home with limited equipment. Anything over .84 percent carbon needs to have a soak time to get the carbon into solution so, 1070 1075 1080 or even better 1084. 1095 needs a soak time. Hard to get a good soak without the right equipment. You can do your etching with an etching machine available from most knife suppliers for about $250. It uses an electrolyte to etch the steel with the machine. Wood isn't a good source of fuel for forging. Coal is the way to go. Of course you can also use propane. Hope it helps.
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