DanielC Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 So by simply asking a man with a welding shirt on if he repairs anvils, I was invited to his house to look at an anvil he had no use for. I have yet to even have my forge ready and only owned my first anvil since a few days ago, and I stumbled upon another one. The only problem is, is that this one needs work as well (Appears to have suffered heavy damage in the past). The owner before him tried repairing the face and corners, but stopped for one reason or another. I am also not sure if they heated the anvil up prior to welding seeing as how the weld on the side looks like there is a gap between the anvil and the weld (See first picture). Tell me what you guys think. Also this is a 150lb Fisher anvil dated at 1894 that I paid $50 for. If I have to I will snag some pics with my 12MP Nikon tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 I also called my local National Welders supply and they could not get me Stoody 1105 for the top layer. So they sent me their W-1 steel equivilent. It's called WH-1 and heres the PDF (The wire located to very right). I have family that are National Welding Certified that could probably do this for me. I just have a few questions like if it is worth the welding wire. It looks as if I can fill in the rest with softer, cheaper wire and top it off with a layer of the WH-1. Then again, I am a noob and could be totally wrong here. The rebound on the unwelded side of the anvil is flawless, but the soft weld has much to be desired. Also should the weld on the side where it is seperating from the anvil be removed and start over to square one?guest11062012153858.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 i'd give 50 for it just to play with ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dablacksmith Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 i wouldnt bother ... it looks like scrap metal to me ... get a decent anvil rather than that welded up one ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatfudd Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Im with Pug $50 is a deal to play with it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluedruid Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 If you own it I'd clean it up and use it. even if the repair is bad it is usable for quite a long time. if the weld doesn't hold you can always redo it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Gonna go through $50 in abrasives cleaning it up. I would have spent the $50 on it. http://www.fastenal.com/web/search/product/abrasives/bonded-abrasives/cup-stones-wheels/_/Navigation?searchterm=&sortby=webrank&sortdir=descending&searchmode=&refine=~|categoryl1:%22600948%20Abrasives%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600949%20Bonded%20Abrasives%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22604156%20Cup%20Stones%209and%20Wheels%22|~ you are gonna want one or two of these in a very low grit. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BM454 Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 I'd grind everything flat and see where it's at from there. You might find it to be usable as is. You can always weld it up with 11018-M and try that. The sides will be cast once you get below the top plate. Not knowing how deep the welds go I'd probably grind them out and start over on the sides. You can put A LOT of money in nickel rods for welding cast if you are not careful. I would weld it with 7018-A1 and cap it with 11018-M for the top layers. If you are not careful you could end up with $500 in a $50 Anvil 7018' are $20 per pound and nickel rods are around $52 per pound. You will need to preheat the anvil weld and then post heat. Once post heated I will need to be cooled slowly. There's a few ways to do this. A easy way is cover with insulation and let cool. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 Aren't Fisher anvils wrought iron body? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unforgivun Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Fishers are cast iron, but you can weld onto the face itself and use the existing face as a base. For all we know he may have used nickel wire as a base before he started welding. If you can get it cheap, go for it, if not I wouldn't bother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 Ah yea. Fishers and Volcan bodies are cast. Bummer. Will see what I can do. May grind the face weld down as suggested and see the condition of it. I can live with busted corners, tossing a potentially good 150lb'r I cannot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 For $50 it's worth it to have a dedicated hardy holder with horn! Need to know what kind of rod was used. If they used Ni then it's soft for the steel face but right for the cast iron body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 I wish the situation was less grimm guys! Wish the previous owner still knew how to get ahold of the person the welded on the anvil, but he doesnt. Im guessing there really isnt any way of testing the weld to see if its correct or not. Maybe the seperation of the weld to the cast iron body in my first picture indicates a non-nickel weld? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 For $50, you'd be silly to pass it up. Grind down the welds to get a nice flat surface and use the anvil as it was intended. There is enough of the original flat surface to use for pounding hot iron on and the rest of the anvil can be used for hardy tools and bending/turning around the horn and corners. If, after a few years, you decide to rebuild the face, you'll have a much better idea of what you're dealing with and how to go about repairing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 Alright. Will do. I was in the process of building my forge recently (55 gallon drums) until a family member only 3 hours away could no longer smithy due to shoulder injuries from his occupation. Because of this he is giving me his forge, blower, and about 50 different tools! Unfortunately the only anvil he had was a 300lb Cast Iron Chinese Import that from what I hear is in rough shape, so the anvil will probably be scrapped by him if I for sure leave it be. So in other words I now have 2-55 gallon drums (with lids!) to store coal/charcoal and/or to maintain a fire source to keep warm this Winter pounding iron. EDIT: And btw, thanks so much for the input guys. This community has been extremely helpful and patient to me and several other newcomers that I have noticed. Once I can really get into the craft I will be more than glad to contribute to the community as much as possible. Until then, I have an obsession of posting detailed photos (With my proper camera, not the camera phone that Ive been using in my two threads) and from my experience with searching threads for information; the more detailed the topic the more helpful it is to others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Ball bearing test on the welds will be indicative of the weld hardness, though you still need to grind a flat to test on. Over 50% and it is good! (well, it could be better...) Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 Ball bearing test on the welds will be indicative of the weld hardness, though you still need to grind a flat to test on. Over 50% and it is good! (well, it could be better...) Phil Ive seen everyone mention that. Most suggest a very large ball bearing however. Know a common place I can find a 1" ball bearing? Lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 crane/dozer repair place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob S Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Ive seen everyone mention that. Most suggest a very large ball bearing however. Know a common place I can find a 1" ball bearing? Lol. take a ball pein hammer or really any hammer and tap the face while holding the hammer loosely. you will be able to tell if the anvil has 'life'. there isn't anything sacred about a 1" ball bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 Yea I felt the immediate rebound on the face that had no weld with a hammer (Maybe 70-80%'sh). Hitting the weld had much to be desired (Maybe 20-30% rebound). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 What a deal! Heck yeah buy that baby. Like Thomas says you'd have a dedicated hardy holder with a horn, no bad for $50. I also wouldn't be overly worried about all that weld stuff up front, just grind it smooth and use it till you can find something much better. Like the song says, "don't worry, be happy", if had a spare fifty I'd buy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 I would've picked it up for $50 and welded it up myself. However knowing what he'd laid on it previously is important, really important. Forget high carbon or hard facing rod/wire. Build up rod/wire is a lot more compatible with anvil use, it's tough as all get out and very much impact resistant, better yet most types are compatible with cast iron deposition. Then again, that's just my opinion, FWIW. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 30% is WAY better than cast iron! It might work harden if you worked the face after an initial dressing. I think you will do good to just dress it and use it, or let other people use it. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 You are overlooking a great possibility at a very economical price.....turn that baby into a striking anvil. Make the finished height to be approx 28 in tall. For a striking anvil rebound is not necessary. But wait....you still have an active area that has not been welded upon to use as a regular anvil too! get ready to make you some neat bottom tools like mounted spring swages or any of a gozillion anvil tools. Lots of folk are envious about this situation for sure. Many people do not really do hard striking so they do not realize the potential of having a dedicated striking anvil, and your also will have good working surfaces to boot. Here is the plan...$50 on the purchase...about $50 in grinding and flap grinding tools...about $100 or so for a good base, maybe less. Heck yeah! You have a great situation going for you. Get active Carry on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted November 8, 2012 Author Share Posted November 8, 2012 Never thought of that. Then again Im really new to this. I am only now acquiring what I need and finding out more and more every day. Thanks for the advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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