ThomasPowers Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Well my question was to Stewart as his "Why?" was too ambiguous. "Because I wanted to" and "Because I can" was all the reply I might have made. I have a 24 volt charger and was thinking of using electrolysis once I get power to the shop; got some old mechanisms that could use it on to try to get them working again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Evers Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Washing soda can be prepared from baking soda if not locally available. http://naturesnurtureblog.com/2012/05/08/ttt-turn-baking-soda-into-washing-soda/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakwoodironworks Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Looking forward to seeing the finished product Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 This looks much better than taking a grinder to the surface to get the rust off that's for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Emig Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 I think the part about "No grinder with wire wheel required" says it all. I've used that method and it definitely has its place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Very excited to see how it comes out. And I'm thinking I need to invest in one of those tubs! What setting do you have the battery charger on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monomoit Posted September 25, 2012 Author Share Posted September 25, 2012 Vaughn, the way I have things wired up, the battery supplies whatever current it required to run the "engine". The charger, which is an automatic type, outputs current sufficient to maintain the battery's voltage. RIght now, after 24+ hours, the charger is putting out a constant three amps. This is a fairly heavy draw, but it's hooked up to a BIG item! As far as the tub goes, be aware that the dimensional limitations for an anvil would be about 11" in height, 29"-30" in length, and a base that is no more than 10" in width (perpendicular to the longitudinal axis). Probably a max of 200 lbs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 Thankfully, my newest anvil is perfectly clean of any rust (well-kept by an engineer that appreciated his tools!), but a largish bucket like that would come in handy for a lot of odd-size stuff that doesn't fit in a 5g pail. I'll have to hunt down my battery charger and get to work on cleaning that old blower I have! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 I have done this with a small stock tank, a golf cart for the battery bank, and the changer for the cart running. Makes fast work of even gang reels for mowers. You must dry and oil whatever finished product you take out, as the bare metal will begin to rust *immediately*! Be advised that the new "smart" chargers may see the direct setup (without the battery in the middle as buffer) as a bad battery cell and refuse to help. The older style and cheaper chargers work fine for direct electrolysis without the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 Since you have the tub on hand I guess you don't need a motive other than a clean anvil. If you had to drop $60 on a tub, or spend more than a few minutes working out a solution then I would still have to believe you had a different purpose than just cleaning an anvil. I look forward to the results. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monomoit Posted September 26, 2012 Author Share Posted September 26, 2012 Quick update: been so busy with work that I haven't had a chance to pull the Hay Budden from the tank yet to do the final cleanup and rinsing. Here's a photo, though, showing the condition of the anvil after about 2-1/2 days: It's done. The rust once present on the surface is completely gone, and a fine film of black oxide remains in its place. This is easily removed with soap, water and a scrub brush (or a pressure washer). Oiling the surface immediately after rinsing is imperative, so that rust doesn't once again begin to form. If I get a break at lunch today, I'll try to pull it and show everyone the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 Cool, All the dies and punches for my ironworker got wet and rusty a few years ago and I sorta clean em up one at a time when one gets pressed into service. I can't face cleaning em all at once by hand. This I can do. Thanks for posting....mb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkunkler Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 I have a 24 volt charger and was thinking of using electrolysis once I get power to the shop; got some old mechanisms that could use it on to try to get them working again. Get a good size tub to start with Thomas, because once you get started you'll be derusting all kinds of stuff. I use expanded metal mesh scraps as anodes, lots of surface area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 Can smaller things, like my IW punches and dies be put on expanded metal mesh all at once? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatfudd Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 You have to separate the items to be derusted from the anode. Here is a good video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBQqvXfYj9s from the wood workers guild of America. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 As long as the expanded metal tray doesn't touch the sacrificial metal, you're okay with putting all of your punches on a 'tray' of some kind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 As long as the expanded metal tray doesn't touch the sacrificial metal, you're okay with putting all of your punches on a 'tray' of some kind. Hmm, Now if I set the punches/dies directly on the expanded metal tray which is connected to neg it won't work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkunkler Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 The sacrificial metal is the anode or plus side and can be multiple anodes connected together and against the sides of the tub. Multiple items may be derusted as long as they have a good electrical connection to the neg terminal. You may try forcing the punches in the holes of a piece of expanded metal or wiring them to it. If the items are really rusty, sand or file at the points of contact to get a good connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 Yup, just don't let the positive and negative touch. You can wire the parts to be cleaned on a piece of all-thread, or put them on a tray, or use grounding wire and clamps.... just don't let the red lead (and whatever it's connected to) and black lead (and whatever it's connected to) touch each other! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToolSteel Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 Phil, Why such a negative attitude? Do you have a specific problem with electrolysis or do you suspect monomoit is somehow up to no good? ToolSteel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 I am halfway in Stewart's opinion of "why" since there are easier way to deal with a rusty anvil than setting up electrolysis from scratch (an anvil face cleans up quite quickly from use in fact). I personally have not tried electrolysis, simply because I have not had a reason to expect electrolysis to work better or easier than cleaning means I already have set up, so maybe the unknown is part of it. Part of it is tounge in cheek fishing out if he is working on something that a much much larger container would be specifically necessary, and an anvil happens to be a good excuse to give it a test run. (Gosh, did I just call my self a troll?) Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron woodrow Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 once you have a big enough tank, you dont need an excuse. It is simple to set up, and it is a very effective non labour intensive, and proven system. Much safer, and less dust and mess than wire wheel wheeling. And in my mind, cheaper also, when you consider the fact you can reuse the electrolyte and container Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatfudd Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 That should work as a long as you have good contact with the expanded metal, so they are a complete electrical circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old N Rusty Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 But,,, I like rust. Work keeps the face of my anvil shiney, and the rust on the sides ,, it's rustic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatfudd Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 Sure would like to see the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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