tom6289 Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 I recently retrieved a Peter Wright Anvil from the depths of the barn and would like to put it to use. The face has quite a bit of corner damage and is in need of repair. I am relatively new to smithing and have no knowledge of anvil repair. Any suggestions or use as is? I am also interested to know any history/information that may be known about this particular anvil. Any advise would be greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 Actually not a bad anvil. I'd make a block for the hardy hole that has some decent corners (but no sharp edges) and leave it alone for now. I can't comment on history - maybe someone with Postman's book? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 Those are some hard-used edges, but it looks like it's still got life in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skunkriv Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 Well I am at work and my book is at home but near as I can remember the "Solid Wrought" in a circle dates it as being made after 1850 something. There are probably some numbers on the feet to date it closer. It definitely needs some work but it is better to wait and do it/have it done right than do it poorly. There's lots of info on rebuilding edges and I am sure you can find some on a search here or on google. I use "build up" rod that I cadged from a rod salesman one time or 7018. Enough carbon will migrate into the weld zone from the steel face for the hardness. Don't use hard facing rod...too hard and the chromium in it tends to crack out in use. For now I would just use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blacksmith Jim Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 If it says 'patent' on it, then it was made after 1915 (or 1918) or something. I snagged the Postman book through inter-library loan and did a little research a while back. That book really is awesome. I plan to purchase a copy in the future. I have a very similar anvil, but without the horn clip. Mine looks a bit less used though. All in all I think that anvil looks fine to forge on for now. I wouldn't try to repair it at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcraigl Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 Tom My 204lb Peter Wright looked about like yours when I got it. Except some moron used it as a cutting table at one time and pitted the center of the face a bit. I too wanted to immediately repair it, but my mentor encouraged me to just radius the chipped edges with an angle grinder and use it. He predicted I'd find a use for most of the different radii created from smoothing the chipped out sections. He was right. I'd still like to have at least one small section of the near edge and the far edge that is square, and fill the gouge in the center of the face. But I do in fact use most of the radius for different things. I'd say use it as is for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BT Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 If it says 'patent' on it, then it was made after 1915 (or 1918) or something. I think that actually the word "England" is what dates it after the mid teens of the last century. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Bernard Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 I agree that this is not a bad anvil at all. Corners could be ground round and used "as is". If you wish to repair however, there are ways to do it without ruining the anvil. Important to follow - prep by grinding areas to bare metal, preheat to 350d, weld up using Rob Gunther's process using rods he recommends, reheat to 350d, pack in vermiculite or ashes for slow cool. I have repaired and participated in repairs of more than a dozen anvils of size ranging from 100 lbs to 300 lbs with only one slight failure (small hairline cracks across the built-up corners). The only difference between this repair and all others which were successful was that the slow cool process was not followed - allowed to cool in below freezing temp. immediately after repairs done. It takes 10 to 12 hrs including preheat, welding, grinding etc. to packing for slow cool phase. Rob's process is on the web but I lost the site. Email me and I'll send or answer questions. The rods used are very close to the plate on old anvils and repairs, if care is taken, are indistinquishable from the original steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 You can do a google search on "anvil repair" to get Rob Gunter's repair outline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom6289 Posted February 7, 2007 Author Share Posted February 7, 2007 Thanks to all for the info and advise. I was leanin' toward leaving it alone and I think I'll follow that plan. Now to get that forge built... :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted T Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 Tom, The price you paid for your anvil sounds like a real bargain. During the period of time you are testing the waters of blacksmithing, I would suggest you may want to use this anvil (as is) for a while. If you decide to pursue blacksmithing more aggressively, that may be the time to make a more informed decision of weather to invest in buying another anvil or to repair this one. I would not discount the suggestions given by the other blacksmiths on this forum. I take their opinions seriously. I think they had some good ideas. If you buy another anvil, you could always keep this one as a show piece and let this one supervise the new anvil. (Just kidding!). I have had up to 14 anvils. I reluctantly sold most of them. Blacksmithing tools have a special meaning to me. To me, an anvil represents a sense of honesty that reflects our predecessors’ durable work ethics. Be safe! Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Ted you should have seen the Vulcan I had on display at Quad-State casting defects you could just about stick a pencil in all along the body-horn interface that actually penetrated to the surface around the plate on the horn. "a sense of honesty that reflects our predecessors durable work ethics" would this be the "predecessors" that coined the terms Caveat Emptor and "there is a sucker born every minute" Historically there was a lot of cheap stuff made but usually it doesn't last to make it down to us. 100 years ago Sears sold cast iron "HF" anvils as well as re-tagged Hay-buddens---guess which ones still show up in use? Thomas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted T Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Thomas I see what you mean when you speak of “Caveat emptor”. I have just allowed myself to be taken in by Lincoln Electric Co. I only saw a photograph of an item. When I got it here, it was way different than what I thought it was supposed to be. It must have been designed and manufactured by Mickey Mouse Inc. Like you mentioned, "there is a sucker born every minute". My problem is that I have been re-born too many times. I apologize for not being more descriptive with my observations of what blacksmithing tools mean to me. My statement “a sense of honesty that reflects our predecessor’s durable work ethics" was not meant as broad inference about life as you have wisely mentioned. My thinking at that time was only a narrow band of thought. I was thinking about the people I knew who used anvils and blacksmith tools. People like my grandfather, the blacksmiths who help train me, and a whole lot of friends past and present who use the tools. It meant nothing beyond that. I not only learned some things about blacksmithing and welding, but I also learned about work ethics from them. Thanks for the comment. Be safe! Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skullington Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 Hey guys, just purchased a 154lb peter wright anvil... man I love it. I bought it to shape horse shoes but now im very interested in Blacksmithing on it or at least learning the ol trades and how anvils were used in the good ol days. My anvil has two square tapered holes in the base one under the heel and one under the horn?? what on earth was that used for. any help would be very much appreciated. Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
element Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 I think these holes were used to insert rods to help hold the anvil during the forging of you anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Bly Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 I think that actually the word "England" is what dates it after the mid teens of the last century. My Peter Wright does not say England on it, however the numbers on the feet are 2 and 2 My guess was that this was the year it was made. I have the Postman book, but I have yet to actually find the time to really get into it. By the way, Thank you Mr. Postman for your hard and valuable time and research into this amazing book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artfulanvil Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 Hello I am a new member to this site. I am based in UK and have played around with blacksmithing for a few years. I built my own forge and acquired a beautiful Peter Wright anvil at a rural auction. However, some low life thief has recently stolen my anvil. I was storing my blacksmithing equipment at my son's place in Norfolk whilst re-locating after a divorce. How the heck the thief managed to remove it is a mystery has its approx 259kgs (5.0.10). Myself and my son could barely lift it onto a sack barrow when i moved it to his place. I don't know when it was made but it had very little damage/wear to it. I am trying to get it back by swamping the local farms and scrap metal merchants with flyers but I doubt if i will ever see it again. I think Peter Wright anvils must be the most beautifully symetrical anvils ever made. There are lots of ugly lumps of metal around (ASO's) purporting to be a blacksmiths anvil but the PW had it all. There's no wonder that the pattern (London Pattern) was adopted throughout the UK and USA as it really does look and act the part. Anyway I'm now off to collect a farriers portable forge that I've just bought. Bye for now Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 Here's a pristine Henry Wright anvil that followed me home this week end. It has never been repaired. I etched it to reveal the original material and then dressed it to my liking. It is sitting on a larger Peter Wright anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quang0 Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 Now that just about brings a tear to my eye. It doesn't even loot like it's seen a hammer, let alone hot steel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Falcon 72 Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 Here's a pristine Henry Wright anvil that followed me home this week end. It has never been repaired. I etched it to reveal the original material and then dressed it to my liking. It is sitting on a larger Peter Wright anvil. What did you use to etch it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 I used about 2 cups of sodium bisulfate in about 30 gallons of water in a plastic trash can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 Isn't that PH Down as found at the pool/spa supply? Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 It may be Frosty. They use it to adjust the pH in the soil around here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 Pre 1910 does not have england on the side post 1910 has england on the side numbers on the side 1 - 0 -10 =1cwt 0 quarters 10 pounds which =122 pounds the face is of old fasioned blister steel, body of wrought iron This very easy to repair so take it to a welding shop for expert help. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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