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tfs future anvils???


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I am going to be buying a new anvil in the very near future, I am looking at tfs anvils as they are right up the road a little ways to pick up. question is can anyone give me some thoughts on the future anvil 2, i need something pretty portable because i will be moving it at least 2 times a week in and out of a truck. any other opinions would be welcome on other anvil types and wieghts. I will be doing mostly decorative work no bigger than 1 inch most of the time and some tool making as well. want to get the most bang for my buck and still be able to move and travel with it..........
thanks
foaming mug

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I have a Future I, as I am a farrier and enjoy the style of horn. I like the fact is is half steel, half Alum, much lighter. Gives me good service. I think with the future II, regular horn, wider face it would give you good service for what you want to do.

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yeah tyler texas for sho lol. native texan, and ***** proud of it. yet another reason to go TFS anvil lol


Give it up for the Lone Star!! I'm down in southeast Texas around the Port Arthur area. New to blacksmithing but not to metal working. Looking for a decent anvil and a supplier of knife steel that is local or at least in Texas with good prices. Give me a shout if yall know of one. Thanks!!
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I had a Future 3 and thought it was pretty good, but I did trade it in for a Emerson 100 lb. They are nice because of the large face for the weight, they are quite, and don't jump around to much. THey do steal some of the rebound. The future 3 has a horn that isn't real round and that I didn't like, but the Future 2 is very round. Good anvil for mobility, not the best shop anvil. Good Luck!

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Give it up for the Lone Star!! I'm down in southeast Texas around the Port Arthur area. New to blacksmithing but not to metal working. Looking for a decent anvil and a supplier of knife steel that is local or at least in Texas with good prices. Give me a shout if yall know of one. Thanks!!
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I just picked up a used Future 2 from a farrier in Central California. He was asking $225 and that's what I gave him. He even threw in the angle iron stand for free. There is about 1/2 inch of the horn tip that looks like it was cracked off. After reading some of the discussions on blunt horn tips, it seems that I could likely reshape the tip with my gas torch.

Did I get a good deal on this?

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  • 3 years later...

anyone know how the aluminum and steel pieces are joined?  i would worry about that joint.  i guess i also don't see why a lighter anvil is better, unless you're mobile, and then a smaller working surface with the mass under it would be better, IMHO.

 

also it's made in texas...so forget it!  :P

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1" with any type of sledge work is WAY over amping those small anvils!

 

If you have read all the dozens of posts on blunt nosed anvils you would have seen that a blunt nose is a GOOD THING and if you need a small sharp bick it's way better to forge one for your hardy.

 

If you must sharpen your anvil horn make sure you wear a cup in the shop!

 

"What Say We?"   YES!  NO! MAYBE! depending on information YOU know but didn't supply to us.

 

Finally Show Low is in AZ....

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anyone know how the aluminum and steel pieces are joined?  i would worry about that joint.  i guess i also don't see why a lighter anvil is better, unless you're mobile, and then a smaller working surface with the mass under it would be better, IMHO.

 

also it's made in texas...so forget it!  :P

The texasfarriersupply.com website says it has a gasket between the two sections to reduce noise. By putting an aluminum base under the steel face you can focus the weight into a larger working surface and stem (neck, web, whatever it's called) instead of distributing the weight into the base and leg-thingies. I see where it would be a good idea and provide good support for the face, unlike most farrier anvils which have a narrow stem, neck, web (there's that thing again) under the larger working surface. I'm still new but I see the logic. I just don't know how it works with two pieces of drastically different metals (ferrous and non-ferrous) stacked on top of eachother and a gasket which is a potential source of force-robbing empty space. Does anybody have any experience with these?

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This anvil was made for farriers. It has the same size working suface as the same they sold in 125 lb wt...but less mass to cut weight. It did that as planned. I carried a swedish 105 lb anvil when I was shoeing..and even it got heavy lifting it in and out of truck all day.

I also prefer a more rouind horn than the first model they had/

About that spring from farriers anvils..I hope Gijo can let  us know wot that is as the only spring I have seen was directly  a result of light weight springy anvil stands..that were easy to fold up and put in and out of trucks.

Bottom line is if you like this anvil and want it then you shouild have it...My gut feeling is if you work long at smithing you will replace it later on....

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My thoughts are that the weight is the weight. If it says 96# then it's 96. If you look at a side profile of the future, it has a much more robust neck (what's that part called?) than a, say, 112# nctool anvil. I attribute that to the lighter-weight base and moving the delta (left-over amount or difference) to support the top portion, giving the future a unique ability to support the face with a larger waistline (I'll call it that) than a typical farrier's anvil of similar weight. You could also look at the dimensions of said anvils and see if the 112 cavalry is of similar proportions to the 99# future II. Maybe pnavarro can give us some data to go off of. I ask you to go to texasfarriersupply.com/categories.php?cat=41 and look at the profile of the futures and farriers anvils and think about that. Mr Hale, in my inexperienced and unprofessional time with this hobby of mine I have read about farriers anvils being more "springy" than a regular (London or Austrian) pattern anvil. I have no experience my anvils are a Chinese special and an über-old bick iron in the 80# weight class that I found in a scrap metal pile.
I love this stuff.

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Then I have to suspect you have not forged on a well made farriers anvil..they can indeed work well as a general smithing anvil..with the issue mentioned above that they are not designed to forge stock larger than used for horseshoes.

And in my experience that can be as large as 1 1/4: wide by 1/2" thick. And I have worked as a striker and smith on forging shoes from that sized stock...I did not have an issue with the 125 lb farriers anvil being springy....It would not have been my first choice for that work but it did just fine. W

Wot size stock and wot size anvil were you working with at the times(s) you had the springy issue?

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Gijoe: I'm thinking you might want to look up the names of anvil parts and you'll have less trouble communicating and spend less time trying to explain what you meant.

 

For instance the term "spring" has no meaning relating to an anvil. Even if you're talking about rebound there's zero spring involved.

 

Seriously, knowing the waist from the step from the hole in the . . . makes life easier for all of us.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Learning from the team:
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Don't ask me how I came across the threads, but I perused a great majority of the before I used the search box for "springy". The part I'm thinking of is the waist per this link:
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I have never used a farriers anvil or any anvils at all outside the two that I have (HF Special and scrap)

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Im saying that the futures have a larger "waist" than a standard farriers anvil which would support the "face" better. Although probably negligible, I would imagine that mass directly under the face would yield better results than air. At this point I should probably wave a white flag.

I just wanted to know if the TFS future anvils were good and pointed out some design characteristics I thought were smart.

Moving out...

Drawing fire...

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