Cody

Sorry for the short choppy post. Still learning how this iPhone works

This is the bigger one The only marking on it is the numbers on the front leggs

The top is quite flat with about 75% rebound. I'm in northern mn.

More to follow

Cool, that worked. That is the first one I mentioned. The horn is beat up quite badly.

I just got two big anvils today, can anyone tell me what i got and ball park what there worth? I'll try to get pics off my phone, not sure how that will work. One i'm guessing is 250 lbs. has a # 13812 on the front right corner/legg. I can't make out the brand. but the words solid ?????, possibly wrought, with warrantee under that are on the right side. The other has no marks I can 'make out except numbers on the front at the base. 297 on the right side and on the left 192561(?). there are no grab holes in the waist like on the other one. Both look to have welded on tool steel tops. I got a new phone yesterday. haven't figgured out how to post pics with it yet. I'll have to get pics with the camera tomorrow. Thanks

I got Dr. Jims Master Bladesmith and Goddards The Wonder of Knifemaking. Dr. Jim is cool. (I already have his first book!)

I don't know anything about hog hunting....but I think that horses would be worth a crap at holding down a hog!!

Bowens, you said that you are a farrier, do you forge weld your bar shoes? Know anyone that does? Good practice, good to know how to do, and if you can do that, the other "fun" stuff is quite similar. Forging is forging and welding is welding. At least if you are practicing bar shoes all you expenses are tax deductible What kind of forge do you have? If it's a NC like mine, it will weld fine, but it has to be about as hot as you can get it. Turn up your regulator to 12 or so and wait untill the steel is the same color as your forge liner, that is after is has had a chance to get good and hot. let it run for ten minutes or so. Brush, flux, heat, and light hammer blows. Have your hammer in your hand and everything set up. Let your hammer bring the steel to the anvil. A couple of hits and brush, flux, reheat. Pretty much goes for bar shoes and tomahawks. Just my take on it, there is many others on here that are much more knowledgable then me. Good luck. Cody

Cool I don't have much info, but the couple of pages I do have says "Either chain saw bar and chain oil or Little Giant Lub. oil are recommended; any high quaility chassis grease will work." I think that it will run to where it needs to but it won't fling off, but I could be wrong also Cool to find out when it was made, and in my home state! I had read that the dies should be about 1" apart, but now I see that that depends on the thickness of the stock. How much range to they have without readjusting then? If you are drawing alot do you just split the difference? The toggle bolts are about straight in line with each other, but they tilt with the right side being lower. It looks like that is cause by the one "eye" is centered on the bolt and the other is under the bolt. Does that make sence? is that normal? Thanks for all the info......Keep it comming please! :)

I just picked up a 25# LG with the #2850. Anyone have one of those books that says what year it is? It don't have a gaurd on the spring, so I'm going to make one. I have a sheet that show the oil locations. I have been using bar and chain oil. I have a bottom drawing die and a bottom flat die and a top flat. Those are quite new ('03 I think). and there was an old but nice bottom drawing die that is only 2 1/4" tall. From what I have read that is getting to short to use. Can I just reset the distants or use it for thicker stock?It looks like the dies are suppossed to be 1" apart when the head is at its lowest position. Is that right? I was set more than that when I got it. You adjust that by loosening the nut and sliding the bronze pitman down? The other thing is the tension on the spring. It seem tight, but I don't know how tight or how toght it should be. Is there a book out there on LG, like an owners manual? Does Sid mind these kind of questions? Thanks for any help. I kinda got in over my head :D

Thanks Mark.

Well here are my latest spurs. The shanks are 1/2" sq. bumped up a bit at the band. Hand cut rowels out of 1/8" plate and oil quenched for color. I used a rivet from the hardware store for the rowel pins. I don't know if I like that, but it worked I guess. I wanted to use a screw or something that could be changed if needed. I couldn't fined what I was looking for. I was afraid that the treads would get wrecked where that rowel sits and not let the screw come out. I thought that if it was theaded only on the lead(head) side that would work, but I wanted a 3/16 pin in the rowel, making the threaded end 1/4" and I didn't have enough thickness in the end of the shank. Next time I'll leave more, maybe make it kind of round like a button or something. Any other sugestions? How about for a finish? I am a little worried about it rusting badly because of it being a rasp. Right now its just WD40ed. Seems like any kind surface finish (like clear coat) won't last long. I thought of oil quenching them but wanted them bight steel. Any help, critisism, pointers, likes or dislikes welcome. Thanks for looking. Cody

I like It. How thick is it? How heavy is it? I like the handle, seems like it will be rugged and not slipand I also like the weight forward design. I'm sure he will be pleased!