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I Forge Iron

Altusjg

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About Altusjg

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southeast Texas
  • Interests
    Family, Friends, Camping, Hiking and the Great Outdoors in general. Love metal work but been out of it for a while. Trying to get back into the hobby side of it. Thanks for any and all assitance!!

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  1. Interesting name man

     

  2. Very nicely done. Whats that pattern called?
  3. Thats a cool looking blade. I agree it has character. First ive seen with that much topography. Would be interested in knowing how it holds up in the long run. Is that braided leather for the handle wrap?
  4. Nice looking knife!! Congrats on the first one finished!!
  5. My 120lb Acme anvil. Made by Trenton, stamped Acme and sold by sears back in the day. Serial # 111452 made in 1912. http://s165.photobucket.com/albums/u59/agaspard/
  6. Before rebuilding my entire forge, ive decided to try applying a bubble alumina refractory on the floor and part way up the forge side wall. Ive read that this refractory is pretty flux resistant so i'm hoping it will be a better alternative to building a whole new forge. I'll have to replace the floor with a new fire brick as the current brick has been eatin most of the way through. The side walls of the forge currently have a thin layer of satanite over two 1" layers of ceramic wool blanket liner. I was wandering if i could simply apply the alumina refractory directly over the satanite laye
  7. Thanks for the quick reply basher. Guess ill be doing a bit of research on vertical forges as i can see having to reconstruct my forge welding forge in a much shorter time than i was hoping. I definately dont see relining/reflooring the thing after every other damascus billet is completed. So.... in the vertical forge is the billet suspended in the forge(and how) and the flux allowed to drip into a drip chamber so to speak? Do you fill your drip chamber / catch area with anything specific? I think i recall reading that some use kitty litter. Whats the best approach for mounting the burner?...
  8. Ok so i've forge welded a couple billets of pattern welded steel in my recently built forge and i'm seeing first hand what ive read about frequently. That being the speed in which flux will eat through your forge floor and lining. I've seen kiln shelving recommended often to help prevent the flux from eating through the forge floor so i've been looking online for just that thing. I came across High Spectrum Alumina Cone 11 kiln shelving. As I also remember reading about alumina bonded refractory castables being better suited to protecting against the rapid corrosion of the forge lining/floor
  9. Nice job on your first knife! The Pros and cons of both coal and propane forges have been discuss in length in the forges section on this site. Check it out and give it a read through. I'm sure you will find the answers you are looking for. Welcome to your new addiction and welcome to IFI!!
  10. Thanks Dodge. Thats just the kind of input i was looking for. I really like the way this pattern turned out and wouldnt want to mess it up or cause myself more work if it isnt worth it. I'll practice a bit with the parkerizing process and maybe try it on a small designated piece to see what i think later on. Thanks again for the input. Altus
  11. Thanks for the kind words guys. Robakyo- Shamrocks is the first thing i thought of when i pulled it out of the etchant as well. Wasnt on purpose but now i know how to maybe make a more distinct shamrock pattern if i choose. Woodyarmourer- ive made several knives and have attempted to make damascus before with varying degrees of success. This is just the first time i was successful enough that i could forge the billet out without so much delamintion that it ruined the whole billet. Its all trial and error but im getting better. Anyone have any ideas about the parkerizing question??? Than
  12. ohh and forgive all the grind lines on the handle portion of the blade. I do this to both the handle portion of the blade and the inside of the handle to help the epoxy better adhere. Thanks again and God Bless!!
  13. Here is my first successfull pattern welded blade.It will be going to my Dad for his birthday. The blade is 3.5" long with an overall length of 7.5". Its made of 1084 and 15N20 in what i guess would be considered a random pattern. I started with 9 layers and forge welded them together then welded another 5 layer billet(already forge welded together) to the 9 layer billet to equal 14 layers. I then drew the 14 layer billet out, cut it in half and welded it together for 28 layers. I repeated the process once more to give a final count of 56 layers. As this is my first successfull attempt i didnt
  14. I cant say what the recommendations are for curing the refractory cement you are using but i would recommend allowing the cement or mortar to air dry completely over several hours then firing up the forge to cure the cement/mortar. I personally allow the mortar to dry for a full day or so. I then fire up the forge for a 3-5min cycle then kill it and allow to cool. After cool i'll go through another firing cycle of 10-15 mins and kill it. I'll repeat this process adding 5-10 min to each firing cycle until i get the forge up to forging temps. You will notice some steam coming off the forge in th
  15. Nothing to add on the refractory mortar but the T-Rex burner is a BEAST!! I recently purchased one from Mr. Rex Price at hybridburners and have been forge welding some of my first pattern welded billets of 1084 and 15N20 in a similar sized forge. Im reaching welding temps at 5-7psi. It should serve you as well or better than any two similar sized venturi burners out there right now. That is of course just my humble opinion. Enjoy!!
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