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Anvil base Chain


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Yes some folks just wrap the waist of their anvil with chain to help deaden the ring.

It does not add weight into the system as the idea is to have it loose enough to create an interface where vibration gets dampened.

Even big anvil move during use---I found my 515# Fisher "traveling" on me and so installed a couple of fence staples to corral it---doesn't need much with that weight.

And having lost my first anvil to theft back around 1981 security is a good idea---when I bury my large creosoted timber for my next anvil stump I have thought of making a lag bolt with a threaded top and tapping a hole in the base of the anvil and then "screwing" the two together to get an invisible lock---especially with a couple of staples to prevent turning. May give some thief a very bad night sometime!

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My Trenton bothered me with ear plugs in. Strapping it down very tight and wrapping with chain helped immensely, but I still need to wear ear plugs.

Strapping the anvil down tight to the stump also goes a long ways to reduce ring. The stump is "soft" and deadens the ring. Putting a mat like a piece of rubber conveyor belt in between should improve this. Strapping the anvil down tight to a well bedded stump also provides a very good connection to the earth and can effectively increase the apparent mass of the system.

Phil

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Did you mean some people just wrap chain around the base? I haven't seen that

Two loose wraps of 1000# test chain (rather light weight) works on this 100 pound Peter Wright. A photo in the IForgeIron gallery shows both chain and a strap to hold the anvil.

The third photos shows the anvil bedded in sand. This kills the ring quite a bit.

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The sand is used to dampen the vibrations. The attached photo shows the anvil bedded down during a test to see just how much sand was needed.

Adjusting the anvil height was easy. Getting the anvil at the proper forging height (for me) without altering the container, put the edge of the container where it COULD be a pinch point for fingers etc. The plus side was that it provided a great place to put punches and things (far side of the anvil of course). (grin). The Hay Budden was almost painful to work on due to the ring, but in this configuration the ring was only a dull THUNK.

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one thing that i found (at touchstone) is a bar in the pritchel that hangs down and ends in a thinned scroll, this actually kills the ring pretty efectively. and you get all those stumped people at demos. :D
I personally don't like the magnets because of all the stuff thek catch and eventually they magnetize the anvil.

Just for clarification, here is a quick drawing of what i meant
post-1642-0-47481000-1298733762_thumb.jp

Ed Steinkirchner

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"Bicycle tubes would cover chain nicely"---And stink really bad when scale or hot steel hits them!

I stick a tapered drift pin in the pritchel to dull the ring on the road, we call them "mutes" in class. At home I use a mongo Fisher and gloat every "thwapp".

The chain gives a nice "punk" look to an anvil though!

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I used an old inner tube for a rear wheel of a tractor. I just doubled it over to get four layers, sat my anvil on top, used a utility knife and trimmed it around the anvil base, then finished it off by hammering in and bending bridge nails around the feet to keep it from walking. Very little ring from my #100 Hay Budden now.

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The sand is used to dampen the vibrations.

I have my 248 pound Brooks set on a 3/4" thick disk of plywood which is bedded into sand contained in a stainless steel vat that just happened to be the right size. This arrangement works OK except that after a couple of days forging the anvil begins to list (lean) away from me. As it turn out it is easy enough to rotate the vat and then the anvil in the vat to correct this. This arrangement has dampened the ring dramatically but not to the THUNK stage.

From my experience I would have thought that setting the anvil directly on sand would result in the anvil quickly rolling or tilting and being in general unstable under heavy use. I am generally satisfied with the result of my plywood disk/sand/vat anvil stand but with hindsight would probably use a loamy clay with an inch or so of sand to top it off instead of all sand. I think that would be likely to provide the deadening without the movement.
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Dan in the blueprint it shows that I placed a cast iron water meter cover into the barrel on top of the sand, then cut pieces of wood to just fit the inside diameter of the drum, and laid them upon the CI cover to adjust the anvil height. Filled the rest with sand. It is difficult to push the anvil, the wood, and the cast iron cover down through the sand. (grin)

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hello all. i fabricated this from random pictures i've seen on the 'net regarding anvil stands.

TFS future 2 on top of 2x12's bolted together with 1/2" threaded rod and nuts.

I used lagbolts, chain and turnbuckles to secure the anvil. By its nature, the future anvils dont really ring at all.

post-16136-0-08981000-1299038961_thumb.j

post-16136-0-54660100-1299038971_thumb.j

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post-13867-0-28342800-1299211376_thumb.jpost-13867-0-00464000-1299211371_thumb.jpost-13867-0-13739300-1299211130_thumb.jThe Nimba Gladiator rings like a church bell when its on a pallet, don't ask me how I know :rolleyes: The stand is a 7" thick x 18" diameter solid round drop from an O/A slab cutting table. Tubing legss are 3"x1/4" wall, and the anvil is bedded in silicone. 2 grade 8 bolts welded to the slab hold the anvil down with the help of the little straps I forged. Now the anvil just "TINK"s when it's struck.
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