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I Forge Iron

I bought a power hammer


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Lots of powerhammers were commercially made with Side Feed dies, the Champion for one---makes it very handy to place one between two forging stations so either one can use it easily. They had a bail designed so it can be operated from the sides.

'A powerhammer in the hand is worth tons of them in the "Someday!"' (Middle aged blacksmith saying...)

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Both of those holes look like they are pipe thread and the pieces should come out with an easy out- well easy. You could make them if need be. I would replace the gauges as they were. Should be an easy fix. You should remove the belt guard and check for anything damage, bent or cracked.
Rob

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The pipe isn't copper. The underside was just the original compressor color. (Looks alot like tarnished copper.)

The oil drain isn't in there real tight. It didn't break all the way off. I started unscrewing it but it broke under that stress. However, it is loose!

I don't know about how tight the other one is. I will surely try to get an easy-out though, uhhh because it is easy! LOL (Hey it's still funny!)

Ok here is the air filter. Pardon, what used to be the air filter.
As you can see, the can is still in fine fancy, but the other part needs help.....alot of help!
Actually if I could tear the trashed part off the threaded part, I could still use the threaded part. Is that something that I could fabricate or is there a special shape to it?

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Not a bad looking rig if I can get it running!
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I did check for bends and cracks and haven't found anything yet! YAY!

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I don't recall who said it, but I grabbed a square shank cold chisel, shoved it into the holes and got BOTH of the broken pieces out in a matter of seconds.

So to the guy who suggested trying something along those lines, thank you!

Now all I need is the filter, a couple pipe pieces, and a 220 volt plug.

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Well maybe I should write an "I bought an air compressor" thread now. :)

We went to TSC yesterday and I got a new oil drain and the piece that connects to the pressure gauge. They didn't have an air filter that big so I'm going to hit NAPA next time I'm in town

Talk about a speed bump though:
I knew it had a 3 phase motor on it, but we (my dad and I) thought that 3 phase just meant you had more hot wires. Since we have 100amp service to the barn we though we were in fine fancy! Well as it turns out, we discovered that three phase is a completely different circuit and since we live on the "far side of the world," there is not a three phase access anywhere near here by a long shot! What a sweet-heart load of information to ruin someone's day! :angry:

Well we dropped by my steel warehouse and I asked some guys there if they knew anyone that worked on compressors. There isn't anyone in the phone book, and the Ingersol & Rand factory, 30 minutes north of here, won't return my calls!

Well my inquiries at the steel house turned up a retired employee from the Ingersol factory that builds and repairs air compressors.
He has new 7.5 HP motors, single phase, and will give me $100 towards my 3 phase motor. Plus he'll hook-up the pressure gauge and everthing for me!

After that we just have to pour the slab for the compressor, and pipe the air into the shop! :)

I do hate making such stupid mistakes though! :o

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Yes 3 phase and single phase are not the same and 3 phase is not available in residential areas, but in mixed use or industrial areas you can get it, and it is much more efficient than single phase.
Sounds like you learned a lesson on this one swapping the motor is probably your best option with this one, always check the tag on the motor in the future it will tell you what type of power is needed

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Back in the day, in the 1930 to 1960 days, utility companies would run three phase service with no installation cost to the user just so they could sell power. Boy has that changed.

Three phase is always metered on a demand meter which is different than the meter on a home. You pay per kilowatt hour like on a home meter but the multiplier (how much you pay per kilowatt) is determined by the peek KW demand in any 10 minute period. Each time they read the meter the demand is reset to zero. I’m very luck in that I have 230-400 three leg three phase service in my shop in a residential neighborhood but it can get to be very expensive paying for electricity. The service here was run in 1959.

You can use exactly the same number of kilowatt hours (or less) from one month to the next but it can cost you 2 or 3 times as much if you don’t watch how much you draw in any 10 minute period.

Just some trivia to ponder.

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Dave,
Having built a few roto-phase converters my self and using one now on some of my machines.I think for your set up the best thing to do is swap out the motor. Phase converters and roto phases work well but a home built is beyond your skill level right now and would and a lengthy time to your getting the hammer going. Besides in a small shop I don't feel it's a good deal to have one running your compressor.
Doc

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See about the phase converter instead of replacing the motor (or in addition to?) 3 phase equipment often goes for less than 1 phase because of your exact situation, so having a phase converter can make good equipment available for less in the long run.

Phil

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Dave don't beat your self up about the 3 phase thing. When I was just a little older than you I bought my first welder from a business that was going out of business. It was a old P&H 500 amp dc welder for just $150. I thought I got a gold mine. When I got it home and looked at the disconect box on it and I opened it to see four wires I new right there what I had done. I now know why the old man always had that grin on his face when I handed over the cash and when he was helping me get it in my truck. <_<

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Well, sorry for you phase converter guys, but I'm going for the new motor plan. :rolleyes:
I took it to the compressor guy, (retired servace man from an Ingersol factory,) and here is what he said.

He gives me $100 toward my motor. I get a new motor for $200 out of pocket. That seems like a pretty good price for a 7.5 single phase, after a quick price check!

He is going to put a new pressure guage on free of charge.

He says that a 7.5 in single phase needs a starter or it will cook the pressure guage. Starter is $75.

He's going to replace the motor pulley because his single phase motors run faster than my three phase motor.

He is going to get the new air filter as well.

I'm lookin at around $300 in materials plus labour. He told me he'd be easy on labour and I thought I'd butter him up with some blacksmithed thing! :P

Including trip expenses, initial costs, and repair costs, I'm looking at having an 80 gallon compressor with a brand new motor, pressure guage, starter, filter, and new connections for under $1000 comfortably.
More than I was planning on paying, but I wasn't planning on taking a trip to the southbound lanes of an interstate while headed north, either. Look at the bright side, I could have had to pry it out of a semi truck's grill and sold it for scrap metal! :unsure: From what I've priced on craigs, similar compressors sell for the same or more so I'm still not digging graves!

I'll let y'all know when I get it back and all!

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I got the head all painted up today! Hopefully I'll get her all put together soon. Compressor is still in the shop!


Great! Where's the pictures? :D

I'm sure you know this already, but when you put the head back together, make sure the cylinder, ram, and anvil are all lined up together. If they're not lined up just right, the cylinder will wear out faster... :huh: Don't ask me how I know this. :P
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I didn't take any of the guide assembly and shims apart. Didn't feel like fooling with that! Also I figure there wasn't much use cleaning all the grease out of the ram guide, painting it, and then regreasing. I left the head in tact, unbolted it from the backbone, and painted around the whole guide assembly!

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I didn't take any of the guide assembly and shims apart. Didn't feel like fooling with that! Also I figure there wasn't much use cleaning all the grease out of the ram guide, painting it, and then regreasing. I left the head in tact, unbolted it from the backbone, and painted around the whole guide assembly!



Sounds like the way to go. Getting the ram lined up just right is a pain! You may have to loosen one side and increase the clearance slightly if it acts like it wants to bind up, as it does in cold weather. I would try the block heaters first though.
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