Jump to content
I Forge Iron

I bought a power hammer


Recommended Posts

Well folks, I bought a power hammer. Phillip Patton's "Kinyon" style hammer. The reason for this step is entirely based on time. It free me up to get some other things done that have to be done before craft fair season.

I'm still planning on building the tire hammer and I am still trying to collect the parts for that build.

However, this purchase will allow me to set that asside for now and focus my attention on some other very important tasks that I have at hand.

The hammer look and works good. I don't have time to post the pictures and story here, but check it out on my blog.....it is quite a story!

MY BLOG

Thoughts???

Link to comment
Share on other sites


nice looking hammer but you really should weld something on where the cutout in the beam has been made it looks really weak IMO


It would have been better to off set the dies at an angle to avoid hitting the frame, someone else mentioned the same thing about the cut out
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that the dies can be turned 90 degrees and worked from the side. I know the bottom one can but I haven't checked the top. That I-beam is 7/8" thick and is still probably around 4 inches wide between the cut outs. I don't like them either, but I didn't notice any shaking or flex when I ran the hammer. I may see if I can find some scrap metal to fill it in.

The air filter, and the oil drain on the compressor are torn up and will have to be replaced. A plug busted off inside it's hole and it will have to be redrilled and retapped.
The belt and pulley guard is busted up and will have to be removed. All major components seem to be ok.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can probably use some channel iron to reinforce the I beam. You may find that turning the dies 90 degrees will be awkward, not a good way to approach a powerhammer, I would cut the dies loose from the mounting plate and angle them 20 to 30 degrees to the left, just enough to clear the frame with room to spare, find a good angle then weld them back to the plate

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that the dies can be turned 90 degrees and worked from the side.

As I mentioned before, I've been using the hammer for a long time, working some very heavy stock, and never had problems with flex. Probably because the i-beam is significantly heavier than the plans called for. If you're not comfortable with the cutouts, then you should weld some plate to the flanges at those spots to re-enforce it.

BTW, the bottom die will not rotate 90 degrees, but the upper one will. I didn't do a perfect job lining the anvil up with the hammer, so the lower dies are not centered on their mounting plates.... :rolleyes::)

Thanks again for buying it. I hope it lasts as long as you need it to. :)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Mr. Phillip,
I tried the bolts after rotating the bottom die 90 degrees and it seemed to line up. I just used two bolts but I can at least get two in I know. I may try it again just to be sure though.

Not sure about the running rate. It is still in pieces today. I'm still trying to locate someone to repair the compressor. It just amounts to re drilling and tapping two holes and replacing the air filter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well Phillip, obviously ya wern't holdin' ur mouth jest right. It's kinda like when you get a new electronical gadget, you know the kind of stuff: cell phone, computer, DVD, ect., they fix them things to where only a teenager can get them runnin', once that happens ya get them to show you what they did so's you can then operate the confounded thang.

Good for you FF. can't wait to see what you produce from it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I'm going to try the dies at 90 degrees and see how I like it. If I don't I'll try cutting them off and running them at an angle. All I have to cut with is a disk grinder so I'd like to avoid cutting it, like the plague. It remains to be seen.


Anyone know if Airgas places work on air compressors?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Why dont you re-tap those holes yourself? It should be a very easy thing to do. Show us some pics of what is damaged and we will be able to coach you if you want. Any kind of filter that fits on it would be ok. Maybe a motorcycle one that clamps to a tube?


Rob is correct on this, Dave. Tapping and threading are basic and important skills, often used in metalwork. There have been a few good threads on the subject here, or blaze away with some questions and we'll guide you through.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are some pics of the compressor.

This is the oil drain for the compressor. The drain is a pipe that extends out about eight inches from the hole. The old pipe is in the picture to the right.
DSC00279.jpg

This is the part where the hole is located.
DSC00280.jpg


This is the other hole. It goes to a pressure guage.
DSC00281.jpg

This is the pressure guage it goes to.
DSC00282.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is another pressure gauge. I could just cap that other hole and use this gauge.
DSC00283.jpg

Not related to tap and die work, but this is the pulley and belt gaurd. It took the main impact best I can tell.
DSC00278.jpg

Scratch marks on the tank.
DSC00285.jpg
DSC00286.jpg

I'll get a picture of the air filter up in a minute.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Dave,
Doesn't look too bad. Looks like the oil drain pipe broke off in the hole, which is better then tearing out the hole. ;)

You really should re-install the pressure gauge, because it looks like it also has a pressure relief valve, which comes in handy should the compressor ever get stuck running. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dave, don't drill those out, at least until you try to use an "eazy-out" to get the broken end of the pipe out! I looks to me like the remnants of the pipe should come out very easily without having to resort to drilling and re-threading. If you don't have a set of screw extractors (easy-outs), you might want to invest in some, they are pretty handy. A screw extractor is a tapered, fluted tool that looks a little like a drill bit, only the flutes are reverse direction. You put it in the hole, and with a wrench turn it counter-clockwise. The flutes grab the inside of the broken pipe and out she comes! Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dave,
Those two don't look like they would need retapping! The pipe pieces look like copper? :D
Try to forge/check your tools for a wedge shaped 'chisel' grip it with a vice grip then pressig it into the broken pipe try to turn it out counter clockwise with luck they will come out quite easily!
Good luck
Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...