Phillip Patton Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 I think clearance is good but I won't know for sure until I run it! Oh and BTW, I tried turning the top die 90 degrees as well, and got all four screws in with no problem! The top die can be rotated. It's the lower die that's the problem. The die isn't centered on it's mounting plate, so if you want to use the dies rotated 90, then you'll have to cut the lower die off and re weld it in the correct spot. You'll see what I mean... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 Ohhhh I see what you mean now! bummer! Well I'll have to use 'em straight and see if I think it is worth the hassel cutting them off. Here is the head! The backbone and the anvil post! That piece of plate in the background is what I'm going to set the hole hammer down on top of. It's a little better than 4 foot square 5/8 plate so I figured it would be a good base until I get concrete! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Is there enough fat in the plate to make a new set of mounting holes? Just a thought. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Is there enough fat in the plate to make a new set of mounting holes? Just a thought. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 Is there enough fat in the plate to make a new set of mounting holes? Just a thought. Phil I think so! I don't know if tapping into 1" plate is a good learners project or not! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted January 23, 2011 Author Share Posted January 23, 2011 FYI There was a broken bolt in the ram head. The broken bolt was from an added weight that can be bolted onto the ram to transform the hammer from 60#'s to 80#'s. It was broken off flush so I couldn't get it out. Well, I was bored and didn't have much get-up-n-go the other day so I grabbed the ram head and looked at that broken bolt. I got to thinking about the way I used a cold chisel to get those compressor parts out. So, I center punched the broken bolt and drilled 3/16 and then 1/4-inch, pretty deep into the bolt. Then I grabbed a junky cold chisel, hammered it into the hole inside the bolt, clamped on some vice grips and out she came! Pretty neat little method, when you are dealing with larger material stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Patton Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 That's great! Do you think you'll be using the extra weight? I guess if you took the bolt out you're at least thinking about it. The weight does slow it down some, and really only helps when moving heavy stock. FYI There was a broken bolt in the ram head. The broken bolt was from an added weight that can be bolted onto the ram to transform the hammer from 60#'s to 80#'s. It was broken off flush so I couldn't get it out. Well, I was bored and didn't have much get-up-n-go the other day so I grabbed the ram head and looked at that broken bolt. I got to thinking about the way I used a cold chisel to get those compressor parts out. So, I center punched the broken bolt and drilled 3/16 and then 1/4-inch, pretty deep into the bolt. Then I grabbed a junky cold chisel, hammered it into the hole inside the bolt, clamped on some vice grips and out she came! Pretty neat little method, when you are dealing with larger material stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fosterob Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 What you did to get out that bolt is to use a homemade easy-out. The store bought ones come in all sizes to make it easy to get out small screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 Up n' runnin' now! YAY! I still do not have my compressor back. The last part was supposed to be in yesterday or today and so I should have it back in a few days. Then we have to pour its slab, get it off the trailer and onto the slab, and pipe the air into the shop. However, I decided where I thought I wanted the hammer and so I got it set up. Since I do not have a concrete floor and will not for probably at least 6 months, I had decided to put the hammer on the 45 inch square piece of 5/8" plate. This plate falls just short of 400 pounds and combined with the 1 1/2" base plate on the hammer (16"x41") I figured that to be a sufficient base. However, I needed 4 holes in my 5/8" plate to bolt the hammer plate to. I got a 1/4" drill bit, a 3/8" drill bit, and a 3/4" drill bit, along with four 3/4" bolts, washers, lock washers, and nuts. The plate is too heavy to put on the drill press, so I had to use a hand drill. The first hole took 15 minutes to drill almost all of the way through, and my drill gun was smoking and too hot to touch before I finished. I kept the bits lubed with tractor gear oil and dipped them in water to keep them from overheating. I let the drill gun rest for a while, and then got a second drill gun and swapped them off. I managed, after about an hour of work, to drill four 3/4" holes through the plate. Then I welded the bolts the plate. The bolt heads are under the plate sticking up through the plate. I do not think this is coming off anytime soon! After we got the plate in position, dad and I started putting the hammer together. This is what the end result was! It still needs more paint and a good clear coat but that will come with warmer weather. I didn't figure there was much purpose in painting the head....it'll just get greasy and beat up! I've got to play around with it some, but for some reason the dies don't line up just perfect...about an 1/8 of an inch. Mr. Philip, I don't recall seeing that when I bought the hammer, any suggestions on the best way to fix that? MOre pics coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 After I hooked all of the hoses back up, I wanted to see it run! So, even though our compressor isn't big enough to run it constantly, I figured it would do for a few minutes. So, I hooked it up, threw some 1/2" square in the forge and....well pictures are worth a thousand words! First a flared taper with the taper dies! The a practice run in rounding on the flat dies! Results were satisfactory! And I'm happy! Just need my compressor back now! I'm not sure if I'll use that extra weight or not Mr. Philip. I'll have to experiment, but I did want that option if I decided to! Yes I figured that it was the same idea as the easy out! Works good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciladog Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I've got to play around with it some, but for some reason the dies don't line up just perfect...about an 1/8 of an inch. Mr. Philip, I don't recall seeing that when I bought the hammer, any suggestions on the best way to fix that? Take some 1/8" plate and drill the bolt holes pattern then use it as a shim behind the head. For a fast fix, just oversize the bolt holes in the dies an 1/8" and move each 1/16". You really need those dies to line up for good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Patton Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I've got to play around with it some, but for some reason the dies don't line up just perfect...about an 1/8 of an inch. Mr. Philip, I don't recall seeing that when I bought the hammer, any suggestions on the best way to fix that? Hi Dave, You're right, the dies were lined up when I had it. Before you try the shims behind the head, try loosening the bolts holding the anvil down, as well as the bolts on the stabilizer, and see if you can move the anvil in the right direction. Also, the bolt holes in the bottom die are slightly oversized, so you could try moving it some. If all that doesn't work, then you should probably go with ciladog's advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 If I recall correctly you had a few shims under the anvil post or the dies one. (Can't remember from dissasembly...) I put them under the edge of the anvil post and added some 1/16" plate as well. I'll try some under the dies....I'd rather not expand the holes too much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Patton Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 If I recall correctly you had a few shims under the anvil post or the dies one. (Can't remember from dissasembly...) I put them under the edge of the anvil post and added some 1/16" plate as well. I'll try some under the dies....I'd rather not expand the holes too much! Maybe I'm not understanding you correctly, but putting shims under the dies won't help the mis-alignment I'm seeing in that photo. I had some shims under the lower die on the right side (looking from the front) to make the space between dies the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 If it were me setting this machine up I would run a baseline thru the center of the ram and anvil and bring both of those into alignment in two planes. By that I mean strike a line down the center of the ram looking at the front of the machine and then adjust things so that line extends down thru the centerline of the anvil.Once you have things aligned at the front do it again at 90 degrees to the side and then recheck the front to be sure you haven`t thrown that off. Come to think of it the guides would be a better reference point than the ram and you can extend the line of the guides more accurately than you can the ram.Just be sure the guides are adjusted for a close fit to the ram. Any shimming you do really should be a full tapered wedge behind either the head or the base of the anvil.If you shim just the corners then you will build flex points into the system and rob yourself of power and accuracy. Here I go talkin` like a millwright again. First thing I`d do would be to USE IT! Then if it didn`t do what I wanted I`d start tinkering and adjusting.This is a JYH not the space shuttle. I went back and looked at the torch cut hole thru the I-beam,went to the freezer and got an ice cream cone,stuck the cone to my forehead,then came back and revised. No offense meant to either Phil or Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Just a thought Dave, and you have probably tried it, Unbolt and turn through 180 degrees, if you have stripped it down it could have been replaced the wrong way around. As usual you done good, Enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Patton Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 If I recall correctly you had a few shims under the anvil post or the dies one. (Can't remember from dissasembly...) I put them under the edge of the anvil post and added some 1/16" plate as well. I'll try some under the dies....I'd rather not expand the holes too much! Which edge of the anvil post did you put the shims, and which way is the lower die off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 Hey Mr. Bob: I like your technical posts! I was afraid that I would need tapered shims to "do it right." Myabe this will change once I get the compressor back and run this thing full-speed but I don't get any shake or flex from that cut out spot. The hammer seems solid as a rock! Now having said that it will probably fall of and crush something next time I try to use it but..... Oh man.....you are really going to need to wash your hair! Mr. John: No can do! The bottom die is very off-center of it's mounting plate. If I turned it around it'd be about 1/2" off! Thats why I can't turn the die 90 degrees! Mr. Philip I put the shims under the right and front sides of the anvil mounting plate. The lower die was leaning to the right and front so the shims would push it back and left. It worked left to right, but didn't cut it front to back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Patton Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Mr. Philip I put the shims under the right and front sides of the anvil mounting plate. The lower die was leaning to the right and front so the shims would push it back and left. It worked left to right, but didn't cut it front to back! So, if you took the shims out of the front edge, would that move the die to where it needs to be? My memory is a little fuzzy, since I last assembled the hammer a few years ago, but I don't think I had any shims under the anvil. BTW, nothing's going to fall off and crush something, as long as you torqued all the bolts to specs. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Move the anvil back towards the main frame. You may have to enlarge the holes in the base plate and shorten the strap. If you slot them you can move it back then clamp a plate on each side of the dies to line them up then torque the bolts. When you get the anvil where you want it you could weld some square stock to the base plate snug against the anvil base so you can return it to the correct spot if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Next time you have to drill like that, drag out the garden hose. Water is a fair cutting fluid by itself. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 Got my compressor back and she is pumpin' air! I've got to run a 40 amp breaker and some heavy wire to the compressor though....oh that's after I get it off the trailer! LOL That should be interesting! $579 all told in repairs including the new motor! More than what I planned, but it could have been much worse; like a smashed up tank, or the loss of a family member! For what we went through, I think $579 was a small price to pay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Hi Dave, That set-up is looking good so far! SMALL THINGS THAT YOU LEARN LAST AND HELP FOR A LIFETIME(think chisel as screwdriver tool) When you strip machinery take heaps of pics, easy reference for when you forget. When you can try to buy a forward/reverse air drill they are cheap and incredibly versatile, you will be amaised as to just how powerfull they are!(you already have a decent compressor)they can even be used to tap threads! Next item to think of is an air chisel they too are cheap and incredibly versatile, you will be amaised as to just how versatile they are!for both you should get away with less than $30.00. All the best Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Not trying to put a wet blanket on things but remember.....when you use an air tool like a drill or sander instead of using an electric power tool your running a 7 hp motor to drill a 1/4" hole instead of using a 1/2 hp electric drill motor. Some tools like air chisels make sense but many others like drills and sander although cheap to by can burn up their savings in electric power costs very quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 I can tell you what my experience has been with air tools.They are lighter,more compact,more powerful and some run at a much higher rate of speed than most electric tools. One of the real safety advantages I see in them is that you can use a regulator to dial down both the speed and the power to make them far more controllable and if they get in a bind at that lower speed they stop rather than get you into trouble.Try that with an electric tool without letting the magic smoke escape. Some of the other things I like about them is I can loan them to a co-worker and not have to worry about them coming back smoking and dead and as long as you oil them they will outlast a comparable electric at least twice over.When one does wear out they can usually be rebuilt a whole lot cheaper than an electric one and rebuilt more than once too if you buy quality to start. Well worth the money as far as I`m concerned. Oh yeah,you can throw diamond tooling on them and use them on stone and not have to worry about the water shorting you and /or the tool out.Good stuff! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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