what makes a Hofi Hammer so great

[Mark Wargo New2bs]

As a free market capitalist, I'm not going to disparage anyone's attempt to make an honest liviing. I own a hofi hammer and a blacksmith depot czech hammer and there is no comparison. I would discourage you from buying the czech hammer due to sub-optimal manufacture and finish both on the hammer face and handle. Elsewhere on this site is a discussion regarding the dubious manner in which some of these imitation hammers were created. My personal opinion is that you would be better off buying a short handled hammer, dressing the face and practicing the hofi method. I also own a Brian Brazeal style hammer that I made in one of his classes. Brian is being very modest. He will tell you that forging is simple: Heat, Hold, and Hit. I use the Brian style hammer more than any other. I can promise you wouldn't be disappointed with one of his hammers. I can say that you might be disappointed if you pay him to make you one rather than working with him to make your own.

If you are going to learn to do something, emulating someone who is great at it is the best route to success. If you use the tools they use, you will have more success in emulating them and therefore you will be more successful.

(all of this opinion has been provided by a rookie heheh)

Mark

[Thomas Dean]

Is this video just the Hofi hammer technique or is it other instruction in addition?
Phil

It's been a few years since I watched it...really don't remember but, I believe that it is strickly Hofi and it is on 3 DVDs, several hours of instuction. Of course there is a lot of 'paint drying and grass growing' as it is not edited. Tjhe link Tim mentions seems like a good deal although I haven't seen it. I learned from Tsur Sadan at Tom Clark's school how to use "THE" hammer {Tsur apprenticed under Hofi}

[Glenn]

The Hofi Hammer - - The REAL story
There is ''no'' ''Czech hammer'' a ''Czech hammer'' is not existing in the Czech republic. The Molnar the Biehal the Josef Muck the Habermann every one of this long time blacksmith families that all of them I know and visited and with all of them with very good relationship are forging with d i f f e r e n t hammer .the hammer that people here and in the us are referring to as the ''Czech hammer'' is the Hofi hammer. It is not a modification of the Habermann hammer (that was invented and forged first by his grandfather). The ''Hofi hammer ''is completely different hammer” and if one looks at the hammer one can see that the design is completely different the balance the handle the longer pien the radiuses and the grinding. The story of the ''Czech'' hammer started when George Dixon in his book on Francis Whitaker the late in the paragraph of hammers. He put a drawing of the Hofi hammer and called it Czech.

Post #`17 shows the original Haberman hammer and is posted on IForgeIron with permission.

Hand hammers: your preferences?
Post # 38 by Hofi

Most of the questions ask have been discussed on the IForgeIron forum. Hofi has answered many of the questions personally. The topic of purchasing an original Hofi Hammer from Israel, a hammer that was made by, inspected, and approved by Hofi himself as opposed to a similar hammer made by someone else has also been discussed.

You can use the site search engine to find them.

[firebug]

Well I really don't know where to start. I have read every response to the original question and I realize that many who responded know very little about the subject of the Hofi hammer or how to use it. Some would blame Hofi for that, it is not his fault. If you do not know how to hold a hammer, any hammer, and swing it in a way that wll not destroy your body blame the ones who have taught you. The principals that are applied to the Hofi hammer as far as grip and swing can be applied to ANY hammer, just not to as great of an effect as with Hofi's hammer. I took the Hofi's basic hammer class THREE times because the basis for blacksmithing of any style is how to hold the hammer and swing it, period. Think about that, to finish a product you must swing the hammer hundreds, if not thousands of times.

To invest 130.00 - 150.00 dollars on a hammer is not a lot of money if you look at it in any way other than what other hammers cost. First, it is the most used tool a blacksmith will have, period. Since you will swing the hammer hundreds of thousands of times over the life of the hammer that will last you practically forever, you want the best. Your hammer will make you more money than most any other tool you use as a blacksmith. The hammer can easily last 30 years which translates into about 4.50 a year to use it, cheap. That 4.50 a year hammer will pay for itself the first 10 minutes you use it every year. That is the practical argument for the cost of any hammer, not just Hofi's. If you blacksmith as a hobby then maybe you will say, hey I just do it for fun. I still believe you are better off with Hofi's hammer than most any other. The design of the hammer is such that it does not hurt the body when you swing it as long as you use the proper form when you are striking.

As some have said there are two parts to the equation when it comes to the Hofi hammer, the hammer itself and the method of swinging and forging with it. But, let me say that the method of swinging the hammer should be applied to almost all hammers, not just Hofi's. It would be difficult to apply the method to long handled hammers like the sweedish hammer. I know many blacksmiths love the sweedish hammer but it is one of the most distructive on the blacksmith's body. While the long handle gives you a lot of leverage on the hammer, it also gives the hammer a lot of leverage on your arm. It is very hard on your shoulder and especially your wrist. Simply pick up the hammer hold it near the end of the handle and raise and lower the hammer slowly with just your wrist and feel how much pressure that exerts on you. Many use long handles on a hammer, I for one will never do that for the above reason. Not one day have I been sore from blacksmithing. Not in my wrist, shoulder or back. A lady had been taking lessons with Frances Whitaker and using the sweedish hammer. She wanted to learn from Hofi so she went to him. The first thing she complained of was elbow pain as many smiths experience. The first thing Hofi did was get rid of the Sweedish hammer to her displeasure. She argued that it was the hammer used by Francis. Hofi said it was killing her arm. After only a few days of using the Hofi hammer the pain was gone. Look around at the blacksmiths that have wrist and elbow braces. You may get away with it for a long time but one day it will get you. Why even take a chance.

Another thing that many smiths do is put their thumb on the top of the handle. This is one of the worst habits you can have. There is a nerve that runs from the thumb up to the neck, cervicle spine area. After repeated assaults from the hammer blows you end up with nerve damage and neck and back problems. One of my good friends who was a blacksmith had to take pain medication because of this. He was in constant pain from a neck problem that did not start until he had been smithing for 6 or 7 years. The other problem with placing your thumb on top of the handle is that you kill the rebound of the hammer. As a smith you should depend on this rebound to not only help raise the hammer but speed up the striking which gets work done faster.

The Hofi hammer was designed specifically for blacksmithing using physics and bio-mechanics as a guide. It is hard argue with physics. Velocity of the hammer head is what creates work, not the weight of the head. You can do more work with a lighter hammer that moves at a faster velocity. If you can swing a heavier hammer at a faster velocity you will generate even more work.

Lets say that Billy Bob the traditional Blacksmith is going to grab his hammer. He reaches down and gets a firm grip on the handle, most of the time as far back on the handle as he can. He is right handed, his knuckles face to the right, his thumb is either on top of the handle or on the left side of the handle folding around it. His palm faces to his left. He starts his swing by raising his arm at his shoulder, bending his elbow then finally his wrist. Now he starts his downward swing reversing the above sequence. With his firm grip, once the hammer stikes, the rebound is deadened causing him to have to work harder to raising the hammer which slows his striking down. The traditonal way to strike only uses three joints or pivot points. The speed of the hammer is limited by the natural limitation of the bodies joints. Many smiths lean over the anvil which further limits the distance the hammer can be raised above the head. This not only limits hammer travel and velocity but also strains the back.

The technique of hammer striking that is taught by Hofi is significantly different. Now when Billy Bob picks up his hammer his palm is facing down towards the anvil face. He lightly grips the handle about 2 - 3 inches behind the hammer head. He only uses his thumb, pointing finger and middle finger for griping. The last two fingers are used more to limit the swing of the handle as the hammer pivots in your hand. The thumb is on the left side if the hammer and does not wrap it, but rather runs along side it. By doing this you are creating a pivot point. Now you have four joints or pivots points for the hammer instead of the traditional three. The velocity of the hammer head picks up much more speed just before it strikes the iron by pivoting between the thumb and pointing finger. Since you have a loose grip and are merely guiding the hammer, you have much better rebound to assist you in raising the hammer back up. Therfore, not only are you putting much more energy into the iron with the higher velocity, you are able to strike faster. This method allows you to accomplish much more work in less time. One way is simply by the increased velocity imparting more energy into the iron. Another way is the rebound assisting in strike speed. This allows you to strike faster keeping the iron hotter longer. It took me two classes to finally grasp this and to be able to demonstrate this. I was new to blacksmithing and was not accurate with my hammer blows. Now when I strike you can see the hammer putting heat back into the iron, keeping it hot enough to work. When I was in Israel Hofi had broke the finger next to his pinky on his hammer hand. He taped his middle finger to it. He was hammering with thumb and pointing finger with very little help from the rest of his fingers. I witnessed this for 2 weeks.

The Wrist: The reason you want to face your palm down is to avoid injuring your wrist. Close your hand like you are holding your hammer in the traditional way. Pivot your hand up and down. You will notice that there is a natural limit created by the bones of the wrist. When you swing in the traditonal way you are hitting this limit and over time this can cause damage to the joint. Now rotate you palm down and raise and lower your hand. You will notice that you have much more range of movement. The movement is mostly limited my soft tissue like tendons and ligaments. These can be exercised and stretched to the point that you could actually touch your fingers to your arm. There is much more movement in the wrist in that direction than we would ever need to use to strike with. The odds of damaging your soft tissue using this method is very remote.

The Hammer: As I stated above, the hammer was designed for blacksmithing. Keeping the mass around the eye of the hammer is what helps to keep it balanced. As does keeping the weight on both sides and ends of the hammer the same. Saying the hammer is balanced has nothing to do with the handle weight. It means that the weight of the hammer head is distributed equally around the eye. Also, the hammer head is short in length, not long when compared to other hammers like the sweedish hammer. This helps when you tilt the hammer to keep it from twisting in your hand. This balance helps to keep the torque or twisting motion off of the wrist. Since the hammer doesn't twist your wrist your grip does not have to try to prevent that. Again this helps preserve the joint. With an unbalanced hammer any blow that is less than striaght will creat a torque on the wrist. Even a slightly tilted blow will generate torque on the wrist, you may not percieve it but it is there. The more the tilt the more the torque.

Uri Hofi was 52 when he started blacksmithing. As with everything in life Hofi asked why is this done in this manner or that manner. He questions conventional wisdom which I have also found to be wise. He often says, if you can show me a better way to do something then I will do it that way. Within a few short years of smithing Hofi was teaching at his school in Israel. Also within a few short years of starting he was teaching in other countries besides his own. He has been invited to teach in the U.S., Holland, Itlay, Czech Republic, Germany, Japan as well as other places. Many of these countries have dedicated classes every year taught by Hofi, some more than once. Not only has he developed his own hammer but anvil too, commonly reffered to as the Ozark Pattern Anvil. That was originally the Hofi anvil he still has the original drawings that he made for it. Once Tom and Hofi parted ways in the business the name was changed to the Ozark Pattern Anvil. That is a whole other story in and of itself.

In Germany he was made an honarary Master Blacksmith. Germany has a very regimented government requirement to be a master blacksmith. You must complete about 5 years of structured school plus about 3 or 4 years of being a journeyman working under other masters. Plus it cost about 20.000 dollars. The question came up about a non master teaching master blacksmiths. What did they do, they made him a master. He has received the highest civilian medal given to the public by Germany for his contributions to blacksmithing. He has been received in one of the countrys where blacksmithing came to the United States from with open arms. Yet here he meets with much resistance by the traditionalist. I was fortunate enough to be in a class that Hofi was teaching with one of the German Masters. I took him to lunch one day and he said Hofi was traumatizing him. He said that Hofi was doing things opposite of what he was taught but it worked better. At the end of the class this master stood up and addressed the students. He told us how fortunate we were to have Hofi teaching and that we should learn all we can from him. This man has a full time Smithy in Canada now.

I know that there are those that say Hofi copied Habberman's hammer or anvil. That didn't happen. Just look at the differences between them. There is no Czech hammer so he could not have copied it either. Many anvils and hammers may share similarities but the differences in the Hofi anvil and hammer when compared to others is significant. Hofi is producing his anvils overseas at this time. If it wasn't so expensive to get one over here that is what I would use exclusively. I love them. Everything on his anvil has a purpose or use, even the base of the anvil has a use. From the number of pritchel holes, the location and size of the shelf and the location of the hardy hole, the width of the face and the shape of the horn combine to make this one of the best anvils money can buy. I love them.

So you see, to say that the only thing that makes the Hofi hammer better than another hammer is "the hype" or drinking the "coolaid" just demonstrates that people will engage their mouth before they engage their brain. Hofi has achieved more in his lifetime than many would achieve in 2 or 3 lifetimes. Go to his web site and look at his education and business experience. If I could only learn and do half of what Hofi can I will be a very successful blacksmith.

[youngdylan]

The Hofi hammer was designed specifically for blacksmithing using physics and bio-mechanics as a guide. It is hard argue with physics. Velocity of the hammer head is what creates work, not the weight of the head. You can do more work with a lighter hammer that moves at a faster velocity. If you can swing a heavier hammer at a faster velocity you will generate even more work.

This is true but it's nowhere near as simple as this. Physics also means the weight of the head affects how far into the metal the energy is transferred. You simply wont be able to pentrate as deep with a light hammer. Too light a hammer is almost totatlly useless when upsetting regardles of the speed. All you'll do is peen over the top few mm.

There is no way a 25lb litle giant could work the same stock as a 5cwt massey. Even if the the LG were speeded up many times over it could NOT work the same size stock a 5cwt even if that were slowed down many times. Right hammer for the right job, this is the WEIGHT of the hammer, the length of the shaft, the way it is used and the shape of the faces. There is also the tremendous variation in individual smiths bodies to consider. There is NO one size does all hand hammer, experienced smiths often have a collection of many hammers with possibly a few being favoured more than other.

[ofafeather]

This is true but it's nowhere near as simple as this. Physics also means the weight of the head affects how far into the metal the energy is transferred. You simply wont be able to pentrate as deep with a light hammer. Too light a hammer is almost totatlly useless when upsetting regardles of the speed. All you'll do is peen over the top few mm.

There is no way a 25lb litle giant could work the same stock as a 5cwt massey. Even if the the LG were speeded up many times over it could NOT work the same size stock a 5cwt even if that were slowed down many times. Right hammer for the right job, this is the WEIGHT of the hammer, the length of the shaft, the way it is used and the shape of the faces. There is also the tremendous variation in individual smiths bodies to consider. There is NO one size does all hand hammer, experienced smiths often have a collection of many hammers with possibly a few being favoured more than other.

The ironic thing about that is that using Hofi's style hammer with his swing gripped near the head you can use a hammer with more mass. Many people say that using a 2# hammer held near the end of a long handle is similar to using a Hofi style hammer with a 3# head - you don't have to deal with the leverage the head exerts at the end of a long handle. In the idea that Work=Mass x (Velocity)^2/2 (did I get the formula right? Physics is not my thing!) increasing the mass has an effect on the work produced but increasing the velocity has a much great effect because it is squared. Using a heavier Hofi hammer with increased velocity produces a lot more work.

As you said, while this would be a good general forging hammer a smith should always use the right tool for the job and different style/weight hammers are needed for different work. But as Firebug said, you can adapt this style of swing to any hammer. With a suitable handle they can all work the same way, though again heads with the weight balanced around the eye work better for this.

As I understand it, Hofi can do things with one hammer that I would be hard pressed to do with all the hammers in he world. He forges everything from larger stock to delicate leaves with the same 3# hammer.

[firebug]

This is true but it's nowhere near as simple as this. Physics also means the weight of the head affects how far into the metal the energy is transferred. You simply wont be able to pentrate as deep with a light hammer. Too light a hammer is almost totatlly useless when upsetting regardles of the speed. All you'll do is peen over the top few mm.

There is no way a 25lb litle giant could work the same stock as a 5cwt massey. Even if the the LG were speeded up many times over it could NOT work the same size stock a 5cwt even if that were slowed down many times. Right hammer for the right job, this is the WEIGHT of the hammer, the length of the shaft, the way it is used and the shape of the faces. There is also the tremendous variation in individual smiths bodies to consider. There is NO one size does all hand hammer, experienced smiths often have a collection of many hammers with possibly a few being favoured more than other.

Common sense would dictate that the weight difference could not be as drastic as your example. You can though produce more work with a 2.75 pound hammer as compared to a 3 pound hammer if the 2.75 was swung at a higher velocity. One thing I forgot to mention. When I was in Israel I was using a 5 pound hand hammer without any problems to forge with. This was possible because of the hammer technique. I was able to forge with such speed it was amazing to me how fast the metal moved. In fact you would be limited on using this hammer on larger stock such as 1/2 inch and up or you would just smash it.
As far as individual smiths and their bodies are concerned we are created pretty much the same way. Same muscle groups, tendons, ligament etc. Some of us can tolerate more abuse than others but why do it to yourself if you don't have to.

As far as one hammer that does it all, maybe not. The only other hammer I own is Hofi's rounding hammer that we made while I was in Israel. I do have a 2.75 cast, 1.5 pound forged 2.75 forged and 3 pound forged hammer. My next hammer will be the 5 pound forged hand hammer. There is nothing I cannot do with the Hofi hammer when it comes to forging. No need for a straight peen just turn the hammer.

I will pay 100.00 plus shipping for anyone who does not want their Hofi hammer.

[pkrankow]

force * displacement = work

the change in kinetic energy = work

1/2 *(Mass * velocity^2) = kinetic energy (pretty much what you wrote)

The way the math works, if you double the mass, you double the energy. However if you double the velocity you QUADRUPLE the energy.

From a pure physics standpoint a smaller hammer moving faster can do the same work as a larger hammer moving slower. From a practical standpoint there is a limit to the amount of work a hammer can do, as increasing velocity becomes impractical.

I have been trying to learn the Hofi method, and purchased the clean edited version offered by IFI. My elbow has been thanking me at least. I do not own a Hofi hammer at this time.

Phil

[youngdylan]

Common sense would dictate that the weight difference could not be as drastic as your example.

1/2mv squared is basic physics. How the energy travels through the steel is not. You'd get no where upsetting a bit of 40mm round with 3lb hammer. Turning the bar uspide down and upsetting on a big weight of steel gets you somehwere. That block of steel ain't moving very fast.

I've no beef with the idea of the Hofi style hammer, made two not a million miles away myself. Note that sometimes the longer handled on is MUCH more appropriate for some jobs. Working on large bits of steel with a lot of radiant heat is one. I certainly don't want to wear a glove on that hand.

WEIGHT matters for some jobs, not all .... but punching and upsetting it does.

NOT ALL BODIES ARE THE SAME some people have fingers missing, drastically different strenghths in different muscle groups, previous ailments that were nothing to do with smithing. Hey look at the length of the index finger of a low testosterone chinless wonder compared to a high T male (google it) ......

[ofafeather]

YoungDylan,

That fence is great! Don't want to hijack the thread so I won't ask you if you have any more pictures of it or to describe the materials and details. :rolleyes:

[youngdylan]

YoungDylan,

That fence is great! Don't want to hijack the thread so I won't ask you if you have any more pictures of it or to describe the materials and details.

ofafeather, feel free to hijack ...... it's not my thread I hijack things all the time. Thanks for the compliment, here's a thread I posted about that fence

http://www.iforgeiro...__1#entry177339

[son_of_bluegrass]

Firebug,

I have to respectfully disagree with many of the things you have said. I've spend most of my working life (I'm not that old so were talking 20 years) swinging a hammer. Mostly as a carpenter. The only time I've ever been sore from that is when I had to use a hammer with too small a handle or had to use a hammer with a fiberglass or rubber-covered handle. In both instances that was from blisters.
First, there is no problem with a long handled hammer. My most used hammer has a handle that is as long as my forearm. I hold it about 2 to 3 inches from the end and it weighs about 1.5 pounds. I also frequently use a 4 pound hammer with a similar sized handle, which I've used all day for several days in a row with no pain or stiffness in any joint. And when working construction when nail guns weren't available, I've used my hammers all day 5 or 6 days a week (working in the army) without a problem. My carpenter hammers have only slightly shorter handle (but held about the same distance from the head) and weigh from 1 to 2 pounds (trim vs framing) The greater length corresponds to greater acceleration than is possible with a short handled hammer which means you hit with more force swinging a long handled hammer than a short handled hammer of the same weight. Greater force means more metal moved with each hit and fewer hits.
As to the other measure of a handle, most people use a hammer that has to small of a circumference for their hand. Ot to put it another weight, what most people think of as an oversized handle it correct for them. Most people wind up over gripping a small handle to gain control and that leads to transferring vibrations into the hand and arm.
And there are many suitable ways to hold a hammer. There is nothing wrong with setting your thumb on top of the handle. IF you don't try to press down with your thumb. I hold my hammer between my palm and middle two fingers. The index, pinkie and thumb don't have to be on the handle at all for me to swing my hammer. Others hold their hammer between their thumb and first 2 fingers. That works as well.
In my experience most people swinging a hammer don't start by moving their shoulder. I watched a long time ago, a show on ergonomics that had footage of people swinging hammers slowed down. Most of them lifted with the elbow first. Then cocked the wrist. Then moved the shoulder. This results in a swing that is out of line with the target and is harder to control.
The way I was taught to swing a hammer is based on natural movements. You should start swinging from the shoulder and that swing should be straight the same as when you walk. The elbow doesn't have to move but can some, again it should be in a straight line. There is no need to move the wrist at all. This is one reason wrist injuries occur, people try to control the hammer with their wrist. (The other main reason for injuries is gripping the handle too hare.) And so long as you are moving your arm in line with your joints you don't strain your arm or joints. I'm not trying to saw this is the only way to swing a hammer, but I am saying the Hofi method isn't the only way to work either.

As for Hofi designing his hammer, he didn't do it in a vacuum. Every element of his hammer can be found in central European history. Which is probably where the idea of a Czech hammer came from, it is in central Europe. I really have doubts that he created the hammer from scratch. He probably modified a hammer to suit what he wanted. I've done that myself. From his website, he started forging and founded his school after he met Haberman. Hofi has done a lot. And is an impressive smith. But he is better at PR.

ron

[firebug]

1/2mv squared is basic physics. How the energy travels through the steel is not. You'd get no where upsetting a bit of 40mm round with 3lb hammer. Turning the bar uspide down and upsetting on a big weight of steel gets you somehwere. That block of steel ain't moving very fast.

I've no beef with the idea of the Hofi style hammer, made two not a million miles away myself. Note that sometimes the longer handled on is MUCH more appropriate for some jobs. Working on large bits of steel with a lot of radiant heat is one. I certainly don't want to wear a glove on that hand.

WEIGHT matters for some jobs, not all .... but punching and upsetting it does.

NOT ALL BODIES ARE THE SAME some people have fingers missing, drastically different strenghths in different muscle groups, previous ailments that were nothing to do with smithing. Hey look at the length of the index finger of a low testosterone chinless wonder compared to a high T male (google it) ......

If I am not mistaken, the original question would have been in regards to a hand hammer. Not a sledge hammer. Hofi himself has long handled hammers much like yours but they are not used as hand hammers in the traditonal sense, single handed working on 1/8" 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" etc. There is no doubt that you will need a sledge to accomplish some things in your shop. Most of the time though you will be swinging a 2 - 3 pound hammer of some style. Hence the original question.

[firebug]

Firebug,

I have to respectfully disagree with many of the things you have said. I've spend most of my working life (I'm not that old so were talking 20 years) swinging a hammer. Mostly as a carpenter. The only time I've ever been sore from that is when I had to use a hammer with too small a handle or had to use a hammer with a fiberglass or rubber-covered handle. In both instances that was from blisters.
First, there is no problem with a long handled hammer. My most used hammer has a handle that is as long as my forearm. I hold it about 2 to 3 inches from the end and it weighs about 1.5 pounds. I also frequently use a 4 pound hammer with a similar sized handle, which I've used all day for several days in a row with no pain or stiffness in any joint. And when working construction when nail guns weren't available, I've used my hammers all day 5 or 6 days a week (working in the army) without a problem. My carpenter hammers have only slightly shorter handle (but held about the same distance from the head) and weigh from 1 to 2 pounds (trim vs framing) The greater length corresponds to greater acceleration than is possible with a short handled hammer which means you hit with more force swinging a long handled hammer than a short handled hammer of the same weight. Greater force means more metal moved with each hit and fewer hits.
As to the other measure of a handle, most people use a hammer that has to small of a circumference for their hand. Ot to put it another weight, what most people think of as an oversized handle it correct for them. Most people wind up over gripping a small handle to gain control and that leads to transferring vibrations into the hand and arm.
And there are many suitable ways to hold a hammer. There is nothing wrong with setting your thumb on top of the handle. IF you don't try to press down with your thumb. I hold my hammer between my palm and middle two fingers. The index, pinkie and thumb don't have to be on the handle at all for me to swing my hammer. Others hold their hammer between their thumb and first 2 fingers. That works as well.
In my experience most people swinging a hammer don't start by moving their shoulder. I watched a long time ago, a show on ergonomics that had footage of people swinging hammers slowed down. Most of them lifted with the elbow first. Then cocked the wrist. Then moved the shoulder. This results in a swing that is out of line with the target and is harder to control.
The way I was taught to swing a hammer is based on natural movements. You should start swinging from the shoulder and that swing should be straight the same as when you walk. The elbow doesn't have to move but can some, again it should be in a straight line. There is no need to move the wrist at all. This is one reason wrist injuries occur, people try to control the hammer with their wrist. (The other main reason for injuries is gripping the handle too hare.) And so long as you are moving your arm in line with your joints you don't strain your arm or joints. I'm not trying to saw this is the only way to swing a hammer, but I am saying the Hofi method isn't the only way to work either.

As for Hofi designing his hammer, he didn't do it in a vacuum. Every element of his hammer can be found in central European history. Which is probably where the idea of a Czech hammer came from, it is in central Europe. I really have doubts that he created the hammer from scratch. He probably modified a hammer to suit what he wanted. I've done that myself. From his website, he started forging and founded his school after he met Haberman. Hofi has done a lot. And is an impressive smith. But he is better at PR.

ron

I am afraid I must respectfully disagree also. Placing your thumb on top of the hammer is a killer. There have been studies done in other coutries because of the high rate of disability associated with swinging a hammer. I will try to find out and give you a reference. I think you either misunderstood me or I failed to get my point accross. I said or should have said that the hammer swing begins with the shoulder joint. Meaning you raise your arm at the shoulder first. The elbow bends as the wrist flexs up. All of these joints add to the speed of the hammer and when you add the pivot of the hammer velocity is multiplied greatly.

I also disagree with the belief that having a hammer on a long handle can create more velocity than using the Hofi method. Hofi has taught people from all walks of life, includeing doctors, physic teachers etc. They agree that traditional hammer grips damage the body and that the velocity of the hammer is much faster when you use the 4th pivot point between the thumb and pointing finger. As for Haberman, he was a great smith and eventually came to Hofi to learn some of his techniques.

As I said earlier, you may be able to swing like you have for 20 years and be fine, but why take the chance? While I was in Israel I got to see his studio where he displays his work. I can tell you he is better as smithing than PR, trust me. I will say that not many have been able to see that but those who do are very impressed. At this point in his life he has very little to prove to anyone.

I forgot to mention in my earlier post that in the last few years 2 of his students won the World Blacksmithing Championship in Stia, Italy. This is a testiment to his teaching and forging method.

[youngdylan]

Most of the time though you will be swinging a 2 - 3 pound hammer of some style. Hence the original question.

Oh yeah, that right? You seem to know a lot about hammers, so much so you even know what hammer I use day in day out to earn my living with. My "main" hammer is the one second from the left. Made for ME by ME to what suits ME best not what someone tells ME suits ME best. It's about 3.3lb. The one of the right is a 1.5kg (3.3lb) Peddinghaus, I don't get on with it. The one second from the right was made by Adrian Legge for me after I burn't a hammer in a fire. It is by far the best feeling hammer I have ever picked up, BAR NONE. It was made for me about 8 years ago and as I got more adept at what I do for a living I needed to up the weight to be more productive, hence the ones I made for myself.

Since you know so much about hammers, I'm curious as to what you do, got a link to a website, got any pictures of your work?

[firebug]

Oh yeah, that right? You seem to know a lot about hammers, so much so you even know what hammer I use day in day out to earn my living with. My "main" hammer is the one second from the left. Made for ME by ME to what suits ME best not what someone tells ME suits ME best. It's about 3.3lb. The one of the right is a 1.5kg (3.3lb) Peddinghaus, I don't get on with it. The one second from the right was made by Adrian Legge for me after I burn't a hammer in a fire. It is by far the best feeling hammer I have ever picked up, BAR NONE. It was made for me about 8 years ago and as I got more adept at what I do for a living I needed to up the weight to be more productive, hence the ones I made for myself.

Since you know so much about hammers, I'm curious as to what you do, got a link to a website, got any pictures of your work?

I never said I knew which hammer you use, you did. I have been in the ornamental iron business since I was 12, I am 46 this year. I retired as a Fire Investigator 2 years ago. That has enabled me to work more with forging and explore what Hofi has taught me. Go to GOOGLE and type the following in the browser facebook.com/customornamentaliron That should pull up a small portion of what I have been up to the last several months. If you have a problem let me know. I am working on a professional site and have reserved the doamin name theartistblacksmith.com. The reason I do not have a professional one already is because I have more work than I can do most of the time. I worked more than 100 hours a week while I was still employed with the fire department. I am no longer intersted in seeing how much money I can make. As I move my work more to the hand forged stuff I will need the pro site to get my work in front of people.

[youngdylan]

I never said I knew which hammer you use,

If I am not mistaken, the original question would have been in regards to a hand hammer. Not a sledge hammer. Hofi himself has long handled hammers much like yours but they are not used as hand hammers in the traditonal sense, single handed working on 1/8" 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" etc. There is no doubt that you will need a sledge to accomplish some things in your shop. Most of the time though you will be swinging a 2 - 3 pound hammer of some style. Hence the original question.

Your words

[firebug]

Your words

am not mistaken, the original question would have been in regards to a hand hammer. Not a sledge hammer. Hofi himself has long handled hammers much like yours but they are not used as hand hammers in the traditonal sense, single handed working on 1/8" 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" etc. There is no doubt that you will need a sledge to accomplish some things in your shop. Most of the time though you will be swinging a 2 - 3 pound hammer of some style. Hence the original question.

"Hofi himself has long handled hammers much like YOURS" In this context literally your hammer. "There is no doubt YOU will need a sledge to etc etc" In this context YOU can be you, me, my wife or anyone who blacksmiths. It is a broad statement. " Accomplish some things in YOUR shop" In this context again it means you, me or anyone that has a blacksmith shop, again a broad statement not meaning anyone in particular. " Most of the time though YOU will be swinging a 2 - 3 pound hammer of some style" Once again a broad statement meaning you, me or anyone who blacksmiths. The fact that you swing a 3.3 pound hammer is close enough to 3 pounds for me to fit the point I was making.

This thread was about why the Hofi hammer is better than other hammers. I merely responded with thought out answer that makes sense. Not because Hofi says so, or because we are drinking coolaid or some other 5th grade answer. While you may not agree with the hammer design that is fine but when someone asks a question that I feel I can respond to with some common sense I will. I have no problem with people who don't agree with what I believe. It seems though that many times when this subject comes up many traditional smiths get offended and start taking cheap shots like those ealier in this thread. This was a good question and deserved to be answered in detail.

[firebug]

Your words

By the way youngdylan excellent work on your site. I have not got a market for that type of work where I am located. People around here want it to look expensive but not pay for it. I am fortunate that I have a company that ships custom doors all over the U.S. and that is what the grills are for. I still do security window and door jobs from time to time because I can make more than 1000.00 a day. I do what ever pays the bills. Unfortunalty it cuts into my smithing.

[youngdylan]

I would be extremely offended if any one thought I was a traditional smith

Funny .... I don't recall discussing sledge hammers ... ever. There's no sledge hammer in my pictures. The long handled ones are used single handedly at different times according to the job at hand

I have no beef with the concept behind the Hofi/Haberman/Czeck ..... or my own interpretation that suits ME hammers.

There are times when weight matters, 1/2 mv squared is school boy physics; do a bit of research into the propagation of shock waves through differnt materials.

Different people prefer different weights of hammers for differnt jobs FACT. I have grave doubts about anyone dictating what weight of hammer is right for an experienced smith

[youngdylan]

By the way youngdylan excellent work on your site. .

Thanks for the compliment. It takes time to get in to the top end market and I'm only just edging towards that.

[youngdylan]

Given that my work is all done by me, sledge hammers rarely enter my voocabulary. Given that I work in an extremely cramped work 400 sq ft work shop there is no room to swing one. Given that in that shoebox there are 3 power hammers , 2 elecrohydraulic presses (15T and 30T) 2 flypresses and a treadle hammer, I have no need of a sledge hammer ..... so far :D

[ofafeather]

I have a hard time swinging a powerhammer. :blink:

[John B]

I have a hard time swinging a powerhammer.

I just have a hard time, period. (Well most of the time, but that's life and I enjoy it)

[ThomasPowers]

ofafeather---are you placing your thumb on the top? I prefer to swing a powerhammer with a crane myself...