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How do you organize your extension cords?


mcraigl

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I'm in the process of cleaning out the garage so it can be remodelled into a shop. I've come to realize that I'm tired of tripping over cords. I know I could just crank out some large s-hooks to hang 'em I thought I'd ask what y'all do. I know someone in the group has got to have the ultimate cord organizing method. Show me some pix and give me some text showing how you deal with yoru cords.

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Hanging electical cords over a hook invites disaster, leaves a kink also makes them suseptable to cracking. I use plastric mig wire spools cut in half to store them on, they are a throwaway item, so no cost and will hold several cords of the same length, I also use them for storing air hose.

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Sam, I mean for storing them. For instance, I've got a real nice 100' 10ga. cord that is very bulky and takes a lot of space. Most of the smaller cords I've got will hang on a 16d nail but this one would need someting much, much larger.

Irn, thanks for that tip. That's exactly the type of information I'm looking for. Never thought of that one before. I know my father in law is very specific about his hoses and cords being wound up with very large loops so the the coily memory thing isn't as bad. I assume you're talking about the larger mig spools. I haven't emptied one yet, I had been using the smaller spools in my little 110v mig and just switched over to the large spools on the last change. Do you just nail them to the wall? The other thing I'm worried about is that my shop isn't very big and wall space is going to be at a premium once I start hanging cabinets and putting workbenches etc. in.

ML

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In my garage, which my father uses to store his inventory and has power tools in, there is an extension cord on a reel. I assume these can be purchased at a Home Depot or other home improvement store. You pull the cor away from the spool as long as you want it, and every few feet the reel clicks, engaging the gears that keep the cord from retracting. keep pulling until the clicks stop, and the cord will retract into the reel again. It's really easy to use, and is about a 25 foot cord I think. This extension cord is used for the table saw, drill press, and belt sander. All other power tools are directly plugged into outlets in the walls.

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Thomas, that's part of the plan. The impetus for this whole deal is that I bought a vertical mill a couple of weeks ago. The power currently to the detached garage is in the form of knob-and-tube wires that are about 7' off the ground running out of the sophet of the house over to the sophet of the garage. They're about 12ga. and it's only a 110 circuit on a 20amp breaker. There's currently 4 outlets in there and those all have one regular receptacle and one with horizontal blades? I'm putting a 60amp subpanel in the garage and removing the old knob and tube hazards. I'll be putting a ton of outlets in for 110, and at least three or four for 220. "Getting rid of" cords doesn't help me when I've got a welding job that I can't get into the garage and need to drag the welder down the driveway though. That was the reason for spending a hundred bucks on that 10ga. cord.

Rantalin, I've thought about getting one of those cord reels and hanging it off a rafter in the center of the shop. Don't know how many times I've had something on the assembly table, using a grinder or sander, and tripped on the cord running to an outlet on the wall and yanked the tool off the table and breaking the disc. Also thought about either a hose reel or coily hose in the same location for the same reasons. Or maybe just hanging a 4gang outlet from a sturdy cord long enough that I can reach up and plug into it.

Easy, I may actually have an old rim laying around from a camp trailer I no longer own. That'd be a good way to keep my nice expensive cord from being damaged and getting it off the floor.

Sincer we've touched on other shop issues, let me throw another one out there. Do you think it would be worthwhile to put piping for airlines in the walls before I insulate and sheetrock even though I've currently got a small/portable air compressor and can reach anywhere in the shop with a 30' hose? Pro's / Con's? Any other ideas?

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Another way to avoid cords in the middle of the shop space is to use hanging receptacles. The shop that I'm in came with three of them from one of the previous owners. Funny though, they are all at different heights and you can turn around and run your snot locker right into one if not careful...

My plan is to modify these...

Add chain, bungee and a pulldown cord with a light knob just at a reachable height. That way I can reach, pull down, plug in and let go...

...no more suprise nose knocks...

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The more I think about it, the more I like the idea of a couple of hanging double gang boxes with outlets. I had one above an assembly table back in the day when I ran the metal shop at a large glass and window outfit. That was before decent cordless drills so I always had a couple of corded drills on the bench and I don't remember ever being annoyed at those outlets. The assembly table in the new shop is going to have to be mobile since I'm doing woodworking, machining, welding, blacksmithing all in the same space and the wife'll be doing glass blowing in there too. I'll just have to make sure their high enough to not get a bloody nose.

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the roof trusses in my shop are open so I have plenty of places to hang things from and run wire or cords over to keep them out of the way. I made hooks that hang over the 2x4s overhead with a big enough hook on the bottom to hold my angle grinders. So I have either outlets wired in overhead or extension cords running to the places I need them with these hooks to hold tools plugged in. The hooks are long enough so that with a tool in them I can reach up to get it or put it back, but the tools are higher than my head so I don't run into them. The cords loop onto the tools so they stay out of the way as well.

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So you've got the hooks sized so they will slide inbetween the gaurd and the motor housing? Maybe I need to see a picture of what you're talking about. If I've got it right I think I kind of like that too. Grinder's always ready to go, but completely out of the way. or... I just re-read your post. You use these truss hooks for "normal" storage of the smaller power tools. Ie. you don't need to take up valuable shelf/cabinet space for storing them. Either way I think I'll be able to work this concept into my plans.

I think I'm going to take some before pix of the shop overhaul, then some progress pix. I'll probably clean it up a bit more first thouh. I'd be really embarassed for any of y'all to see what it looks like now. A guy sure can accumulate a lot of crap in 20 years.

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I've got 200-ft of cord stored in a milk crate. The plug end goes in first and sticks out the bottom of the crate about 6-ft or so. There's no fancy rewind feature, but if you do a good enough job winding it yourself, then it slides out of the crate pretty easily. The crate has its own handles, so the whole thing is really portable.

A tip on winding - Don't use your forearm as the spool. That guarantees a twist when you pull it out. I just hook the cord in one hand and "reel" in a couple feet, hook it over my hand and keep going until it's too heavy. Dump that in the crate and get another section going.

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Knob and tube's not that bad---at least you can't bridge both connectors pounding in a nail like you can do with romex! Biggest problem is that it was originally put in just for lights and not much of them either and so it's not set up to run all the motors we shop type like.

My shop wiring is waiting on the electrician---he's my neighbor but is working a job out of state lately so I'm working off 1 extension cord back to the house---GFI plug of course.

My planning is for a 4 plex outlet every 10' around the walls with an additional 220 plug next to each one. The outlets I can't mount pointing down will have exterior "covers" on them to keep out dust. I will also have a 220 welder plug by the door to the shop---I'm putting in 200 amp service....for my 20x30 shop.

Thomas

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Thomas, 200 amps... That's HOT! hehe. I'd love to run a full service like that, but the cost/benefit ratio isn't working out for it. If I had a nice shop like you're talking about and I liked where I lived enough to stay long term I'd be doing the same thing. My electrician buddy is convinced that I'll be just fine with 60amps as long as I'm not running the mill, while welding, and have the air compressor come on. What I KNOW is that a full 60amps with modern wiring has got to be infinitely better than the knob-and-tube 20amp circuit I'm using now. Just made me realize that I probably need to put gfci breakers in. More $ I guess. Oh well, it'll be worth it.

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Here are the photos of my rafter hooks for tools with cords. The hooks fit over the trusses and hold angle grinders or whatever overhead but still within easy reach. You don't hit your head and the cords are not under foot. There's also a rack under the work table edge to hold grinders.

1015.attach

1016.attach

1017.attach

1018.attach

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wiring the shop with lots of outlets does eliminate the need for long cords but even in the garden shed they gotta get hung ;) I agree with Jr on the mig wire spools as hangers. Even the little 10 - 12 # spools work. I use them cuz thats what my welder uses :)

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Knob and tube

The oldest wiring system that may still be acceptable, and one still found fairly often in houses built before 1930, is "knob and tube." This system utilizes porcelain insulators (knobs) for running wires through unobstructed spaces, and porcelain tubes for running wires through building components such as studs and joists.
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I use a reel available at most home/garden type stores. You just hold the inside handle (the hole of the apparatus) and crank the knob to wind up the cord on it. Then just hang it on a nail or hook on the wall. Simple, effective, and works everytime with little cost. It will hold up to 150 feet of extension cord. For something very heavy, though, I would use Jr's mig wire wheels or pvc pipe capped off to make hangers.

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You're describing my house Thomas. Built around 1940, remodelled numerous times over it's liftime. I've got aluminum, old romex looking stuff, plus knob and tube and actual romex. I've got lathe and plaster, sheetrock, AND plywood. One of the folks that owned it for a number of years worked at the plywood mill, so his additions are all sheathed with plywood.

Thanks all. Only got about 10 more feet of trench to dig before I have the sparky come over and put some pipe in the ground. 'Course then I gotta get the rest of the garage cleaned out so that we can run wires, insulation, sheetrock, etc. etc.

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Quote--"Getting rid of cords doesn't help me when I've got a welding job that I can't get into the garage and need to drag the welder down the driveway though. That was the reason for spending a hundred bucks on that 10ga. cord.

If I'm not mistaken welders on an extension cord is not a good idea. I have extensions on my welding leads that store under the heavy boxs my welders sit on. As for the extension cords I loop my 100' cords over my hand as described in someones previous post and the last loop is used to wrap the bundle at the top and pushed thru just above the wrap leaving a short loop at the top to hang the bundle. I have a short length of 2" pvc pipe over the nail used for hanging to prevent damaging the cord by kinking.

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