Don A Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 I am building a three-legged kettle stand for a big iron pot. I need an 80" inside circumference ring; probably going to use 1/8" x 1.5" flat stock. (roughly 25.5" diameter) I don't have a tire roller or any fab tools. Any ideas on how to get this ring as close to round as possible? I'm rolling around several ideas, but it's always cheaper in the long run to just ask first. Thanks, Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat pete Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 got a steel barrel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dablacksmith Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 if you can find somthing to wrap it around thats a bit smaller that works . or open jaws of vice and slight bend every few inches . the biggest problem is dealing with that leingth of steel it kinda gets in the way till its somwhat round. good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 Got friends? You can use a wooden form to bend around if you are *fast* and have friends to help and can heat the entire length at one time. Helps to soak the wood a bit and be prepared for smoke, fire and steam! If you think you may do this several times a concrete form may be in order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tzonoqua Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 maybe a wheel rim for a truck or tractor as a former? must be a really big pot!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 Are you bending it flat or on edge? On edge Chalk/mark out your dimension on a plate and use bending forks to manipulate it in progressive secions to conform to the size marked, until complete use a longer piece than the circumference and trim off the overlap and weld by your preferred method On flat, Chalk/mark out your dimension on a plate. Use the swage block or the anvil, place your piece over a suitable gap in the swage block, or use a wedge shaped block on the anvil, and gently hammer the workpiece down as you move it along, If you are only using 1/8" x1.5", you can bend it cold over your knee or between a couple of wood posts used like bending forks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thecelticforge Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 I have found chalking things out on the floor before I start to be a big help. I use my daughter's sidewalk chalk. It's good for taking Papa breaks to play hopscotch too! Often times on larger metal I will change the arch by using the floor as an anvil and light hammer blows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 You want it level. If bending flat, the "easy way," do not feed it diagonally through the fork and/or wrench. If bent on edge, it is easier to hammer-level it than if bent on the flat. http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Roy Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 When done the ID will be 25.46 inches, not all that big but awkward starting out with 80 inches. If you are bending hot, do it in sections, but in 1/8" you can probably do it cold, bending around a form of approximate size then adjust to finish. Draw a nice cirle in chalk or soapstone on the floor to check your radius as you work. I have done this many times when building pot racks. To support a big pot containg liquid I might use heavier bar than 1/8". 3/16" or 1/4 may be more appropriate and durable. Is this to be supported on legs or suspended in some way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 Many thanks to all. Input like this saves a lot of trial and error, even on things that are not that difficult. This ring will be bent easy... like a wagon tire. Still debating whether to weld the joint or lap and rivet it. And yes, Pat, I was looking at a sample section and I agree that 1/8" is too light. I am going to use three legs, and I will fix these with rivets. Any more advice would be great. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 Remember that when you start a circle there is always a flat section at the beginning, so add 6 inches or so to the total measure. When you get the circumference right, cut through the overlap and BOTH pieces of metal at the same time to insure a matched edge. Use a 55 gallon drum to form the ring. This can be done cold and the metal will give you a little spring back so you can easily adjust to a larger size if needed. When using rivets, countersink the inside hole and form the rivet on the outside. (do not ask how I know this). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 Lap, rivet and forge weld! The rivet will keep it all together during the welding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Roy Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 Now you are well on your way. And we expect pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Leppo Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 Gerald It seems like the hardy hole is narrower than the bar. Do you think that this gives a "belly out" profile to the rings? (Not necessarily a bad thing) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 wrap it around the pot. that thickness won't be a problem if you do it hot it will stay if not you can pull it to the right size mark it cut it and weld or rivet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted May 7, 2010 Author Share Posted May 7, 2010 Thanks again gentlemen. I appreciate that link, Gerald. Good stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 I use the same method as Gerald except I use the step of the anvil ans a straight peen. How I have a ring roller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Aspery Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 I would use my hammer - and hammer the stock over a void such as the hardy hole or the like, it's pretty light stuff. My only input is to mark the bar out with a marker every 1.5 inches or so that way you are not hitting the same spot more than anywhere else in the ring. Perhaps a couple of passes rather than one that may be too tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted May 11, 2010 Author Share Posted May 11, 2010 Thanks to all of the kind advice, I got the ring formed yesterday afternoon. The "hammering over a void" method worked like a charm. I even welded up a nice "void tool" for the hardy. I've got some pictures on the camera, so I'll post 'em when I get everything finished up. Again, and seriously, thanks to all for the help. Who knows how long I would have spent figuring this out on my own. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Roy Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Looking forward to the pictures. I always like new hardy tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 Here are some progress pictures: This is the curling tool I made for the hardy- This is what the stock looked like with the 1" lines layed out- This is after the first pass- And this is after three passes (almost complete)- I hope to have it finished in a day or two. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustyshackleford Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 Sounds like you're making an apple butter kettle stand... (ahh, Appalachia) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted May 26, 2010 Author Share Posted May 26, 2010 Sounds like you're making an apple butter kettle stand... Yeah, pretty much the same thing, but I doubt this one will ever see apple butter duty. It is for an iron pot (laundry pot / dye pot) at a circa 1790 historic site. Now you've got me thinking about apple butter. Apple butter on hot corn bread with real butter is a true delicacy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 Apple butter GOOOOOOOD! Here's a little different use for it, desert pizza. Make or thaw a non garlic pizza crust, sprinkle with a little cinnamon and spread with apple butter, lay on a few toppings if you wish and then sprinkle with some chedar cheese and bake in a HOT oven. When the cheese is melted and bubbly, remove, slice and be REALLY careful not to burn your mouth. Frosty the Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 Apple butter GOOOOOOOD! Here's a little different use for it, desert pizza. Make or thaw a non garlic pizza crust, sprinkle with a little cinnamon and spread with apple butter, lay on a few toppings if you wish and then sprinkle with some chedar cheese and bake in a HOT oven. When the cheese is melted and bubbly, remove, slice and be REALLY careful not to burn your mouth. Frosty the Lucky. Frosty,you are just full of surprises!I`ll have to try this on SWMBO this weekend. Thanks. What do YOU use for toppings,oh Lucky One? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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