philip in china Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 What height does anybody use for their swage block? I am experimenting at different heights before I finally make my stand and would value any input from the experienced members. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dablacksmith Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 i dont think there is a standardized height ... they are kinda hard to get right cause it depends on how you are useing um ... fighting with this myself... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevan Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 What height does anybody use for their swage block? I am experimenting at different heights before I finally make my stand and would value any input from the experienced members. About the same as the anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragons lair Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Sorta like anvil height. If your 3'6" or 6"3' Knuckles above the waist or below the knee. Use it and if you hurt move it till you don't hurt. My 3 cents worth. Ken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Swage blocks are multi purpose tools and the height you use them at will depend on what you are using them for, do you use the sides and edge forms in which case the working height will vary as you turn them over to use, this can be accommodated by slots in the top of your stand that will allow the block to be positioned in a usable suitable position for both functions, If you are using stakes in the swage block, you will need a different height to bring the stake to a working level. If you are using a small swage block you may need to have it at bench height. So like a lot of the tools you use, it depends on the circumstance and what you are going to use them for, your position in relation to how you are going to use them and WHAT WORKS FOR YOU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Thompson Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Swage blocks are an excellent and indispensable tool for cracking your shins and trapping your fingers. I know that some people find them useful, but in 35 years at this I must have used mine about half a dozen times. The best height therefore depends on the length of your legs, as the principle function is as a heavy and uncomfortable stool. Oh.. and the last but one dog used to hide under it while I used the power hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Thanks, Sam. My dog weighs more than my swage block. He hides under the bench when he wants a nap which is most of the time. I know smiths seem to be divided into those who wouldn't be without a swage block and those who never feel the need for one. Interestingly many very experienced smiths never use them- I suppose they know other ways of getting the shapes. I like mine and use it quite a bit although it is only an artists one with no through holes. (I use a hardy hole to hold my stakes). I think for what we are doing I will leave it at bench height but make a frame to hold it. I notice somebody- probably a student has put a few dings in it which isn't easy as it is made from alloy steel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
postleg Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 I have a 165lb swedge block. I made a stand that holds the block about 1 or 2 inches higher than my anvil. I made it so when I work on ends it sets at the same hight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Steinkirchner Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 i gues my situation is different from most people's in that i have a buddy at a foundry and, for a forged spatula, he cast me my 80ish pound swage block. the block is nearly square in cross-section with no through holes. so i don't need a special stand to hold it at different heights and the ends are not for heavy forging, just slight bending(works great for counter curving blades)i don't have a pic of the finished block but i have a picture of the pattern i made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 Nice stand. So the brace across the centre takes the block when it is standing on edge? My block is only a baby at about 60 pounds. That "home made" block is interesting. Yes those edges wouldn't stand heavy work! What is it cast in? Iron, steel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYBOY Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Phil,(by the way my name happens to be Phillip) I have a stand that is a bit taller than my anvil stand. I happen to use my swage bloack a lot. We weld a lot of cable in the half rounds and the spoon,ladle,shovel impressions get a lot of use come craft fair season. Me personally I like my swage block a bit higher so I can what Im working on in the impressions better..Thats just me though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 I have one of those old swage blocks, 12"x12", that came with its cast iron stand. When the block is on edge and the swages are in use, it is about 6" below anvil height. The block is the kind that is full of holes when laying flat. I've used my swage block on occasion for through punching large holes and dishing sheet metal. I don't use the swages too often, as I have a collection of them for the hardie hole. I mentioned once to one of my old mentors, Victor Vera,that we hardly ever used the swage block or floor mandrel. He replied, "When you need it, you need it!" http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of blacksmith schools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Youngsmith; if you could get anymore of them cast by your friend you would make a lot of folks very happy! If the price was decent it would pay for a Quad-State and perhaps for the vehicle to haul them to it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Aspery Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 What height does anybody use for their swage block? I am experimenting at different heights before I finally make my stand and would value any input from the experienced members. I have my stand so that the swage block (whether it is laying on its side or on its edge) is anvil height. It is mounted somewhere near the anvil (although movable) so that I can use it as a support for long bars. I use a hole in the side of the swage block for making my top/bottom tools and being at anvil height allows me to sledge and upset steel into the swage block. I used wood for the stand as it is both quieter and safer (won't nip your fingers as you change orientation of the block on the stand) than steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 My swage block is about anvil height flat or on edge. The base is wood timbers on end and I use a pinch bar through a hole to change it's position. I've been thinking about revising one of my old swage block stand plans so it'll lay flat and have open space below it. I figure it'll be helpful upsetting bar but . . . I hardly use it frequently but when I need it it's beyond handy. It spends most of it's time on edge and I frequently put bottom tools in it to work sideways rather than upright in the anvil or swage block on it's face. Heck, come to think of it I do use it pretty often. Frosty the Lucky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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