July 19, 200916 yr pic 1 The forge front door close pic 2 The front dor open (4 1/2'' ) pic 3 The openning mechanisem ( holding with friction ) pic 4 The rear door close pic 5 The rear door open (sits on the side pins ) pic 6 The air inlet full open pic 7 The air inlet half open pic 8 The air inlet closed The air inlet is adjusted when the ''wings'' outer part of the berner is been rotated according to the type of fire one needs (oxidised,natueral or retarded ) The importent part of the burner are the wings on the sides of the outer part of the burner .They give the air a rotational moovment into the burner and by this a much better mixing properties of air/gas and therfor better and more economic fire . the burner is operating on interval of 0.2-1.3 pounds pic 9 Look from the side pic 10 7/8'' squer steel heated to length of 10-11'' Hofi
July 19, 200916 yr It would seem there is a rotating sleeve on the inside that actually makes the adjustments. It is a open wing with sleeve rotation to full open hole, open wing with sleeve rotation to only half opening exposed, and open wing with sleeve rotation to little or no opening exposed. Notice the orange paint on the sleeve move and expose white paint as the opening decreases.
July 19, 200916 yr Absolutely fascinating features for a gas forge. Is there any chance that Mr. Hofi would consider posting some blueprints detailing his innovations in the blueprint section?
July 19, 200916 yr looks like a weld at the top to keep it from moving ...I'ed like to see a blue print also
July 19, 200916 yr Looks to me like the tack weld at the top only fastens the outer sleeve to the jet bushing. The whole outer sleeve is free to rotate along with the jet. Look at the outer sleeve in relation to the bolt way down by the forge in the three pictures.
July 20, 200916 yr Author pic 1 Burner compleat pic 2 The ''wing system'' + gas tip guide pic 3 The burner in parts pic 4-5 FULL fire- wings in full opening position pic 6-7 medume fire -wings in sami open posision pic 8-9 retarded fire wings in close position Hope this make things clear Hofi
July 20, 200916 yr Hofi, sir! The question everyone will be asking: what size is the hole in the gas tip? OBTW guys: In picture #8, that "nail" looking thing sticking out of the burner is the vise handle in the background. Took me a minute.
July 20, 200916 yr my guess is you adjust before you start it then set the set screw. I'm like Grant what size is the orfice?...
July 20, 200916 yr Mr. Hofi, That is lovely setup. What is the volume of the forge and does this burner allow for forge welding temperatures. Regards, Tim
July 21, 200916 yr Hofi, sir! The question everyone will be asking: what size is the hole in the gas tip? OBTW guys: In picture #8, that "nail" looking thing sticking out of the burner is the vise handle in the background. Took me a minute. Very impressive. I too am asking what size is the gas tip but also what is the size of the main tube and how much does it reduce into the flair? Besides the swirling air from the intakes, I get the impression that the tip reduction is of some importance. Inquiring minds want to know ;)
July 21, 200916 yr Author PIC 1 parts of the berner befor assembling +welding and the messurments of the parts PIC 2 welded +assembled pic 3 two positions of opening pic 4 the fler adjusted befor welding pic 5 Two finished berners pic 6 op[en position pic 7 sami-close position pic 8 close position the inside messuerments of the forge are width 8'' depth 9'' hight 41/2'' the orfice (tip) is for regular use 30thou for welding heat 35-40 thou the insulation all around is 31/2'' thick only the doors are 2'' Hofi
July 21, 200916 yr Hofi, Thank you! The detail is excellent and extremely helpful. My "Frosty T Jet" burner is working great. It is the simplest I've found but your design looks interesting. With the detail provided, anyone who tries your design should easily succeed. I just may have to build one ....... another project added to the list :D
July 24, 200916 yr hmm interesting master Hofi. i like the idea about the wing that make the air swirl more.. and all in all it looks like a nice forge DC
July 24, 200916 yr do you like the anyang hammer better than the big blu if so why. reason being i am thinking of getting a hammer and see you have an anyang in your shop. also i dont want a really big one as i dony want to dig a huge foundation in my shop. ps the forge looks good
July 24, 200916 yr I apologize for asking a dumb question but could someone tell me what this part is called, is it some type of pipe fitting?
July 24, 200916 yr Thanks for all the pics and explanations Mr. Hofi. Your burners appear to work quite well. I've contemplated inducing a vortex in the tube but haven't gotten around to giving it a try. It's easy to see it won't mess things up so I won't be shooting in the dark when I do get around to trying it out. The piece you're wondering about Dave (yes?) is a machined weld fitting Mr. Hofi made to connect the jet to the top of the winged choke. (Unless I'm wrong of course and then I look forward to learning what it really is) Frosty
July 25, 200916 yr Author Dave ? Frosty is right ! this piece you can not buy any were I turend it on the lathe pic's 1- 3 explains it very clear ,the part is later welded to the ''wing chock'' element to hold and adjust the tip carrier possition that I also fabricat on the lath from brass. Che Geuvara I will NEVER buy a big blu as an air hammer to suport my forging !!!!!!!!! this machine if very much infirier to ALL the self containd hammers !!!! the anyang-shahinler-kuhn-and say-mack are very much better hammers then the big blu I know them and I operated all of them for a long time. With the price you pay for the 155 blu the hammer and the compressor you can buy two anyang 88 that are much stronger and will last a life time when the blu after 10 yeaes will be a piece of junk , the blu is a fading out hammer. I helped the blu owner Dean Curfman a lot with the hammer the quick change (QC) hammer dies are MY DESIGN and some other things on the hammer the air hammer school was my idea to help and suport the marketing of the hammer dean himself was twice in my smithy in ISRAEL to learn my forging system and I did all this because he was my student and I wanted to help him out. the other reason not to buy a blu is the very high air pressuer that those hammer operate with 140-150 psi is too a high pressuer and a not eficient one and dengerouse ask every engeneer tht deal with air tools he will tell you the same. Air tools are working on pressuer range between 80to max 100 and very rear. there are some othe reasons not to buy a blu but those I''ll keep for me and will never share them in public. Hofi
July 25, 200916 yr Mr Hofi a few questions to clarify my thoughts on your burner You have noted the lengths, but not the diameters, and the original pipe/ material sizes. Is the flare bore parallel or tapered ? A close fit or very loose fit over the main body Is the flare adjustable by using the (what I take to be 4) grubscrews around its periphery? And does it have to be concentric to the main tube if it is a loose/clearance fit? Is the jet end held in position by a grubscerw to allow adjustment or is it fixed? If so at what length does the jet protrude into the mixing chamber? What are the dimensions for the winged apertures and the corresponding cut out in the inner tube? As the inner and outer have to rotate, is it necessary to have a locking screw to prevent accidental adjustment whilst in use? My apologies for being so detailed , but I feel it would help so more could benefit from trying to have the confidence to go ahead and make the "Hofi Burner", especially myself. Thank you for all your contributions.
July 28, 200916 yr Excellent as always. Nicely done and your willingness to share is GREATLY appreciated. John
July 30, 200916 yr Author Joh B ALLWAYS ASK and you do not have to apologiese I am here to answer according to my ability and knoledge.BUT not every thing can be explained and complitly understude on the site you must also try yourself ''with the same recepy one gets different kookies'' the ''wings '' are1 1/4'' the main is from 1'' and 3/4'' the parallel flar is 1'' the slot in the main is 20 mm and it cuts the pipe to 4 equel parts then with the wings that are built proportionaly the same one can adjust the air inlet from open to close and in between some more will be explained with the pics A Two forges ready for delivery .one with the front dor open the other close B-C The finished instoled buener with the locking screw on the wings the fit loose D-E-F-G One can see the soulder on the jet that limits the depth of the jet to the right possition NO lock screw because when i rotate the wings to adjust the jet and the rubber main pipe stayes in the same position hope it is more clear now I am now workin on a smaller burner based on 3/4'' pipe Hofi
July 31, 200916 yr Thank you Mr H, I overlooked the sizes that you actually did include on your original drawing, but these pics and explanations seem to have clarified everything, so I look forward to try to emulate this, and thank you for your generosity in sharing the information.
August 29, 200916 yr nice forge Hofi...next ones for yourself of course...post to me , bill to Finnr...:D
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