Rich Hale Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 Always best to get a good smith to watch your body mechanics and posture while you are forgeing that will make a big difference in longevity for you. If the anvil height is not right or you are developing poor mechanics you may not know it...for a few years....Hammer ins are a good place to get this kind of help take a tape and with advice from someone that can give it, measure an anvil that works best for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanL Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 My floor is sand/dirt. I can adjust anvil height by adding or removing a little soil. DanL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinbender Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 Hi Avadon, Been watching your build and saved asking alot of the same stuff:) just welded this one together...2" top...3 1/2" round x1/4 legs (what I had) waiting to see how the sand works out for you. My daughter-in-law is going to show me how to take pictures and get them on the cpu so I'll try to show this one. Thanks Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avadon Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 Hi Avadon, Been watching your build and saved asking alot of the same stuff:) just welded this one together...2" top...3 1/2" round x1/4 legs (what I had) waiting to see how the sand works out for you. My daughter-in-law is going to show me how to take pictures and get them on the cpu so I'll try to show this one. Thanks Dave With those big hollow tubes you should try the sand as well. I already know it will work well as its essentially acting like a deadblow hammer. Now just trying to discern the best way to fill them.. well that is going to be interesting. See I fgured i'd weld the legs on while the plate is inverted, then later weld the feet on with it right side up. This way if something isn't exactly level I can shim before I tack on the final feet. That won't work if they are filled with sand. Think i'll probably drill a 1/2" hole and just pour the sand in with a funnel when i'm done. This will be easier then trying to do it all mid construction. Then I will weld over that hole and then drill a 1/16'th vent hole in a inconspicuous place so nothing ever gets pressure in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 I was just looking at some of the pictures posted with coal forges and noticed what I thought were anvils that are way to high for the user. So, what is the correct hight?:confused: I was told, years ago that your anvil should be high enough so when your hammer in hand is sitting on the face, there is a slight bend in your elbow. Just a guess but maybe 10 degrees? I'm going to be building a new tripod stand soon, (tired of the old 10 x 16 P.T. beam end) so I guess it's important for me to get your feedback on this. Thanks:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 The "correct" height is the one where you can work for the longest period of time without hunching over because it's too low or not being able to hit flat because it's too high. Note this will differ depending on what you are doing and what tools or tooling you are using! I have anvils at 4 different heights within 3 feet of my main anvil (and an upsetting block on the floor as well) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 The general rule of thumb is between wrist and knuckle height. As Thomas said a lot depends on what you do the most. If you spend most of your day with a heavy hammer drawing 1/2" or better by hand I'd go with wrist height maybe even lower if I used a lot of hardy or set tooling. On the other hand if what you do is fine work, say knives that require more delicate work and precision I'd go higher so I'm not squinting to see and bent over all day. If I wasn't sure I'd make a temporary stand that was at the low end of the range and shim with plywood till I found the height that suited me and my work the best and go with that height for the final stand. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 OK, I'm confused.:confused: Somewere between the floor and wrist hight? Xxxx lot of possibilities:rolleyes: I guess I'll stick with what I've been doing because I only have one anvil:D As with so many things in smithing...It depends on what you want to do.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Frosty is right when he says between wrist and knuckle height for the face of the anvil. Stand next to your anvil with your feet shoulder width apart. Let your arms hang loosely by your sides and make a fist. That fist should be at the same height or perhaps an inch or two lower than the face of the anvil. I've been shown that rough benchmark by at least a dozen professional Smiths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Thanks Ian- Thats similar to what I have been told. I think the other options would be considered "specialty" hights. It would be nice to have input from Mr. Hofi as I am basing my stand on his design, more or less. I suppose I should clerify. That anvil will be for Basic smithing and not specilty work. You know drawing, leafing, bending etc. When I need to do fine work, I'll pull up a seat and get up close and personal that way:D Boy, I just had a dyslexic moment.... I read Frosty's post as between wrist and ANCLE hight, not knuckle hight:o Thanks guys, I think I've got it now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Yeah, ankle height is for working on REALLY thick stock. I must say though, you made me go back and re-read my post VERY carefully. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Ah, Another dyslexic perhaps?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Well yes you do want your anvil between wrist and ankle height---but trending toward the *top* of that range... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 :DHa Ha Ha:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Ah, Another dyslexic perhaps?? Minor unless I'm stressed but I do make typos and miskeys pretty frequently so I edit everything. Still it's not at all unusual for me to miss something until after I post it and have to go back and edit. Even then I'll read something I posted and notice something embarrassing like misspelling my name, etc. Sometimes my fingers don't take terns like they should, maybe I just type faster than I think. . . Yeah, that's probably it. Anyway, after reading your wrist to "ANKLE:o" height reply you bet I went back to see what my fingers wrote while I was telling them knuckle. Pesky things are always getting me into SOMETHING. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billp Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 I too, agree with the KNUCKLE to WRIST height as I made my stand from 2x12's staggered standing on end glued and or nailed together cut to the appropriate height for me But. I also have a flat platform made of 2x6's I made long ago for another reason, I can sit my stand and anvil on for an extra 3 inches of height if needed. Just a thought if it might help in a pinch. Bill P PS I'll add a pic tomorrow if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Frosty, I know... if not for our fingers and hands just think how easy life would be.... A dogs life? :)Thanks for ALL the posts basicly confirming what I had heard about proper Anvil hight:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug C Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 I would take a slightly different approach from the one Frosty laid out. I would build the temporary stand a bit on the high side and then stand on varying thicknesses of boards until I found the right height. I tried shimming my anvil stand and ended up with an unstable anvil. Also it is easier to add a board under where you are standing than it is to get one under a 200# anvil!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Good point Doug, I like it. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegearjunkie Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 This may sound like a stupid question,but what is a good height for an anvil to sit at. I'm about 5'11 and am getting an oak block from a friend,once he cuts the tree down.So if anyone has any suggestions so I dont have to cut this wood to many times or to much There are no stupid questions.....just alot on inquisitive idiots! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unkle spike Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 Please use the search function, there are many threads already addressing this, most full of great information..... "search" is near the top above Tailgaiting and Chat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 so many in fact I merged them into one thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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