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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by Avadon

  1. I'm taking on more welding jobs and wondering if I need a welding certificate. Outside of jobs that clearly call for it the only thing I can find in my state that legally call for it under the ORS revised statues are welding on pressure vessels and boilers. Are there any jobs I would be advised to turn down simply due to intrinsic liability? I've avoided a lot of critical structural welding jobs simply because I haven't purchased expensive business insurance yet. Though I imagine if someone (or something) is injured it's not going to matter if you have a cert or not. All that will matter is wh
  2. The adage of using green only for Aluminum (as I understand it) used to be true because people were welding with transformer machines several decades ago. However welder technology has changed and the inverter machines prefer Grey tungsten/2%Cerium (formerly orange) for Aluminum. Blue/Lanathanum also really works as does Red 2% thoriated. The reason it's hard to completely answer the question is most of these rods weld DC/AC well and some work better for different metals and at different thicknesses so it's a bit complex. Specifically for thin aluminum everything I've read points to Blue, Gr
  3. Just FYI if anyone is welding thin Aluminum I got the following from Arc-Zone. From what I could tell perhaps one of the only people online that carry all this in one place. But it helps to know the decimal of what you're looking for otherwise it becomes impossible to find. Amplify™ 2* Thoriated - Red Tip™ [8662] Tungsten Size: .040 (1.0mm) x 7 (177mm) Item# A-EWTh-2- $8.85 USD 1 $8.85 USD Amplify™ 2* Thoriated - Red Tip™ [
  4. This is kind of interesting... Q: Which filler wire is best for welding 6061-T6 aluminum, 5356 or 4043? A: Both are acceptable for welding 6061-T6, but each has advantages and disadvantages depending on the application. An aluminum alloy containing 5 percent magnesium, 5356 generally is stronger and more ductile than 4043. But 4043, which contains 5 percent silicon, typically flows better, is more crack-resistant, easier to weld with, less prone to weld smut, and yields a more aesthetic weld. You're probably wondering this: If 5356 is stronger, shouldn't I always use
  5. Hi John, I read two long articles on which tungsten to use for Aluminum welding. Apparently it's a far more complicated issue then I ever thought possible. Many rods will weld AC Alum but some are better in certain applications and certain thicknesses of metal. Well after my head was swimming with all the information, my main take-away was that 2% thoriated is still the most practical for welding aluminum, especially thin sheet. Though there may be times where the GREEN pure tungsten and the RED 2% Thoriated should be compared for highly specific applications. I was also reading good things ab
  6. THANK YOU!! Iron Wolf.. that was exactly the information I needed. Once I had the exact decimal I could look them up properly and find them through Arc-Zone and Aircraft Spruce. Yes they do make .035 and .045 now I just have to find them in 5056. I was trying to avoid mig wire just because it's rather annoying to have to straighten it out and when it's curved like that it can hinder the uniformity of your weld. I'm doing very micro welds on a robots guts.
  7. Yes I saw mig wire on another site somewhere but I wondered if the properties would be similar to TIG rod?
  8. Also what is the best Tungsten Electrode for welding thin aluminum? I'm using a Miller Dynasty 200DX
  9. Do they make any aluminum Tig filler rod that is smaller than 1/16? I'm hoping there is 3/64 (.0468) or 1/32 (.0312) but I can't find it anywhere. I'm trying to weld 6061 Aluminum.
  10. OMG how embaressing.. I don't know why I said W-2 lol. Yes it is S-7!!! Seriously sorry about that mix up. Wow I don't know how I messed that up. But yes thank you wpearson it is S-7!! That's what happens when a decade goes by! I never labeled the rods but I still have them. So here is the pics of the first anvil I made. And yes thanks for the correction it was S-7 Air hardening Rod. When I was looking at the specs for W-2 the other night it mentioned quenching and I never quenched it which should have been my first clue. Thanks for catching my error. The S-7 is what we are talking ab
  11. I believe I got the hard facing rod from MSC and I believe it was reccomended from this forum. It was applied with TIG and then I used a belt sander to stand it level. It was a good bit of work. It's extremely abrasion resistant, I would put it against any anvil. It's nasty tough stuff. From working on it over the last few years I can tell it's harder and tougher than my Nimba surface. In fact I'm planning on making a second anvil with this method I like it so much. The next anvil is going to be 3"Thick x 20" Wide x 16.5" tall. The existing anvil is actually 4"thick x 13" long x 16.5" tall.
  12. yes indeed, covered with a W-2 hardfacing rod.
  13. Well this 1/4" is ontop of a steel block that's 4" thick by something like 16" x 24" so it's a heavy beast of a piece of plate. I've noticed though that W-2 is much harder to put a hammer smile in then any other anvil so I am nearing in on the conclusion that my brian brazeal anvil is likely the most durable anvil I have and the easiest to repair for should I actually dent it I can just weld in that hole and sand it back to smooth. It will look like it did when I first made it in 20 years from now because it's so easy to repair the face.
  14. I have two anvils, one which Is a giant steel block who's face is covered with about ~1/4" welded W-2 Tool Steel. I also have a Nimba Anvil. The Nimba is listed at 50-52RC and W-2 is listed at 64-65HRC. I wonder if my Steel block anvil / Brian Brazeal Anvil out performs my Nimba? How much does face hardness determine quality or usefulness of an anvil? Clearly there are other factors as well that make a great anvil: Rebound, Mass, Temper, Style, etc.
  15. Just found two other pics that my wife and I took that day. Should be able to give more reference
  16. I saw this at my local scrap yard. Maybe it's just a hunk of unusuable junk or a diamond in the rough. I have no idea. But I thought I'd share it with you all. I'd imagine they'd sell it at scrap metal prices. Pm me for the location.
  17. I'm very interested in getting a Blu Max 155. They seem like an incredible machine and people seem to really value them. But before I get too enamored are there any other new power hammers that are good competitors at the $8,000 range? Does anyone have one and have any pro's or con's they could briefly explain? Thanks, Av
  18. Are they just ornate or do they serve any function?
  19. I think they call them Pinaculo which I'm guessing is latin for pinnacle. But I think that's the whole structure. The metal ornament I don't know much about. They look like they're often tied to vertical rails which may hold the tower together?
  20. Can someone tell me what the name and the purpose of the little balls/prong like structures that you see on gothic towers are? They look to be metal and perhaps forged or cast. I notice different towers have different shapes but I'm not sure what their use is. I almost thought it was a beam inside of some sort to hold the octagonal spire together? Or perhaps it's metal ornate casing to hold the rigidity of the octagonal tower?
  21. You're very welcome. Any questions just pm or post here. It's basically a big heavy mass with S7 welded onto it. I suppose if you had any gigantic piece of steel you could weld S7 onto that area and you'd basically have the same thing haha but the shape does lend it to be easy to work around and it can be moved. The width/thickness is 4". I had the 4" piece of plate cut for me at Turner Steel in Massachusetts. The torch cuts were just cleaned up with angle iron flapper wheels.
  22. Haha I did. I have about a dozen of those HART clamps and I love them. Don't know if you can get them up where you are. That's a good idea. But I don't know how you'd get the torch to the back side. I like the idea of tack welding the 45dg braces. I thought about that but the clamps were on there so tight I thought it might be unncessary. I filled in the welds today and so far it looks really good. Only will truly know when I take off all the clamps
  23. Thanks for all the great advice guys. I choose the easiest method, cut the existing structure apart and use it for scrap. Then I went and bought new material. The new material is the short part of the "T" and it's 3/8's wall, very thick stuff. I didn't have a lot of confidence in heating the old structure up and bending it back into shape like suggested so I scrapped that idea. I figured if I weld the long piece which is 1/8'th wall to the 3/8'ths material I should overcome the problem. But to be sure I took the 3/8's stock and I used a ton of clamps to clamp it to the desk. I also heavily cl
  24. Here is a relist of all the pics. If anyone has any questions I'll do my best to remember how I built it all.
  25. Hi guys, very sorry that I didn't see this post and that I didn't get back here lately. My email has changed and I think I didn't get it updated here. It may have been when I changed my domain my pictures don't come up anymore I can't go back and edit the original post which is frustrating. So I'll try to add the archive of pics for this anvil here again.
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