jimbob Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 I was at a local recycling center yesterday. They had dozens of old oxygen bottles that had been cut in half. They are about 7" id and I bought one about waist high. Haven't used it yet but it wont take up much floor space and has a weighted bottom so it shouldn't tip over. that would be really good for long sharp pointy things ...be nice to sink it into the floor with a foot operated lid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krisfaeth Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 my slack tub came from a 16 gallon beer keg that was left in the shelterbelt at my friends farm after some kids' party was busted. i just cut out the center of the top leaving a 1'' ring & made a basket. works great has handles built in so its easy to move, empty & clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted April 26, 2009 Author Share Posted April 26, 2009 Just for your information. Steel cylinders with post world war 2 first retest dates are made from Chrome molly steel. The permitted alloy and heat treal in defined in 49 CFR ( DOT regs). Steel cylinder and Aluminum Cylinders are regulated by DOT. The steel if very tough and resistant to crack propagation. I had very poor sucess forge welding the material but I only tried three times. Perhaps properly prepared, it could be can welded in a good dedicated gas forge. The bottoms make great bowl formers and when stuck open end down in the floor excellent bases for for small anvils and equipment. With carefull triming and a litte machining, heat treated, the tops can be wonderfull bells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 My oil quench tank is the bottom section of a gas bottle. Nice depth with enough oil to quench but not so much as to bankrupt me and I can quench vertically!. I have a can that fits over the top to keep out pests and extinguish burning oil. I also have a steel block on a heavy wire that I can hook on the side for preheating the oil and made a wooden platform for the tank to sit in to keep it from being knocked over if things get exciting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warrigal Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 I now have a couple Galvanised buckets, I have quenching oil in 4lt olive oil tins with the top cut off. Top off for most jobs, side off for long blades. But when I started I had a plastic 10lt bucket but I pt an inch of sand in the bottom so I could drop small items in without melting the bucket. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 Putting sand in the bottom is a good idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 All my slack tubs kept rusting through, no matter what I used. I finally found a large 5 gallon, heavy walled, aluminum cooking pot at the local discount store. I tossed a few stainless steel pot lids in the bottom for extra protection of the bottom. I figure this one should last at least a few years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buffalo Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 I was using a 5 gal galvanized bucket. One morning in December, the windchill was was around -45, and I thought forging sounded toasty. I found my slack tub sitting on its domed bottom, seams blown apart. I had never seen ice take any path but the easiest, yet even with an open top, the ice went down and pushed the bottom out of the bucket about a foot. I am now without a permanant solution, using watever plastic bucket is handy. I bought the last bucket, against my cheap ways, and am not paying for another. I will keep my eyes out for a good solution. You all give such different perspectives on this and every topic, what a great forum! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 Stainless steel beer kegs are good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DClaville Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 i am thinking about getting a wide cement pipe and cement it to a base so it is water tight it will hold the heat and the base could be made with small wheels for it to move around metal buckets rust away and wood is very hard to find it a god size DC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 That is a good ideal you could probably cast it yourself make your own forms from plastic cans/buckets put wire on the inside ...I like that, I think your own to something here! even cast in a brass spigot to drain it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Thompson Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 I just cut the curved part off the top of an old gas bottle (one of the 3' high one) and welded on two rings to take a bucket style handle, it works fine and cost nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Lumpkins Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 I got a old Milk Container at our local scrap yard, It works pretty good, it had a couple tiny rust holes in it, But alittle silicon fixed it right up.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocko 58 Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 G'day All I use a stainless steel 18 gal Beer keg, It's just great no rust Onya all John ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reid Neilsen Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 Do you have a welding torch?(or a recip. saw wth a metal cutting blade - heck even a hacksaw woudl work.) Go to your local junkyard and get a steel barrel that has no holes. Cut it in half(you can even grind off the shapt burred edges if you are so inclined) Then you have two more tubs. Or leave it full size for those long pieces or irregularly shaped pieces you need to quench. Total cost - $10-20 and it will be more heavy duty than a galvanized tin bucket. Edit: It will take many years for it to rust out. That has been my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 I cut a plastic 55 gallon drum top to bottom, in half. This gives me a half moon cross section and I placed that into a steel frame. I little gravel in the bottom and fill. I have been using that since about 2002, and no issues. It has frozen solid several times a year, and the ice just rides up. Still have the other half too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim McCoy Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 John B, How did you cut the top off the beer keg and once you depress the little ball at the hook up point is all the air pressure released??? Thanks in advance ... Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cross Pein Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 John B, How did you cut the top off the beer keg and once you depress the little ball at the hook up point is all the air pressure released??? Thanks in advance ... Tim I don't know how John B did it, but I have been looking into this as a brew pot. These links may help:Brewery Keg Conversion RonblogYouTube - Keg to Kettle Conversion (part 1) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bully Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 I use a old metal garbage bin which I painted (inside with a asphalt paint to stop it rusting out ) works well is certainly deep enough and for what I do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim McCoy Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 My new slack tub is a heavy gauge stainless steel cooking pot - five gallon with two handles/no lid - found it in a dumpster last August ... :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 I use an old whiskey barrel half from the garden store. Needed to fill it with water and let it soak for a week for the wood to swell, and then cheated and caulked the inside. Works great and also it doubles as a weight for the bottom of my vice stand for demos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old N Rusty Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Being in Baton Rouge, the home of Exxon and big oil , large pipe pieces are not hard to find. I have several in my shop none longer than 48", nearly all sch.40 (3/8" wall thickness). One piece of 36" dia pipe about 40" long, I turned into the " last" slack tub I will have to make. I welded a 1/2" plate bottom on it, welded good so it don't leak, with a thick enough bottom so that long bars thrown in will not punch through. cut in a drain valve, and welded two padeyes( lifting "ears") near the top, so it could be moved with the motor lifter (drained) . It wasnt long before I was torch cutting the thing to be no higher than 32" or however long my wet arm would be reaching for that something that fell into it. I got lazy and didn't reweld the lifting padeyes , just cut holes in the pipe near the top. It will work . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 I use a 10 gallon aluminum cook pot that I found at the local discount store. Big enough to quench stuff but small enough to flush out the RV antifreeze each spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 I drug my Bader up the hill to the Fine Arts Metals building were I could access power as one of the students was finally getting around to working on some longer blades he had forge. For a dip tank for long blades we use an old artillery shell casing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 John B, How did you cut the top off the beer keg and once you depress the little ball at the hook up point is all the air pressure released??? Thanks in advance ... Tim Sorry Tim, Missed this question for some reason. I depressed the ball valve and then used a thin stainless steel cutting disc in an angle grinder to cut around the drum at the height I required, used a couple of screwdriver type blades to keep the cut from jamming on the blade (or You could use a jigsaw/sawzall) Or you could remove the valve completely and drain any dregs left in the drum before starting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.