Frosty

Looking good there Nick. I'll be watching for finished pics. Frosty The Lucky.

Not me, most spatter just scrapes off unless I miss and strike an arc on the table and spray isn't going to help. When I'm welding something really spattery I just use Pam on the cup instead of the high priced spray. Thinking about it just now, a nice layer of rust should take care of spatter sticking don't you think? Frosty The Lucky.

Welcome aboard Ed, glad to have you aboard. There are a number of blacksmiths in the Fairbanks area but I only know one personally. I'll send your contact info to him. I wish we had more interaction with the guys in the interior but . . . it's the interior. I'll shoot Bryan an email. Frosty The Lucky.

Here're a couple build tricks for you regarding drilling an angled hole in the shell. As you say angling the burner tube through a perpendicular hole can be problematical. 1st. solution is to drill the hole oversize. A little kaowool stuffed around the openings and it's tight. Another method is using a hole saw and replacing the pilot bit with a LONG one. This will allow you to cut the hole at an angle but it takes a delicate touch if you don't have a drill press. Lastly (for the short list) is cutting the hole with a saber saw. To mark the pattern wrap the burner tube with light cardboard or a couple layers of printer paper ad tape it. Slide it off the burner and using tape it to the forge shell a few inches away at the angle you like. How shine a light through the paper tube and mark the light pattern on the shell with a pencil. You can calculate an oval but laying it on a curved surface leaves it a bit off. I usually use a hole saw a bit over size. For mounting the burner I like welding a piece of small angle iron, 3/4" is what I have on the pile right now. Weld it on at the angle you like and use a hose clamp on the burner. It's simple secure and adjustable. Simply inserting a bit of curved wire between the burner and bracket above or below the clamp will change the orientation nicely. The only burner I have with a flare is a linear sent to me by Jay Hayes when I bought a can of ITC-100 from him. That flare attaches with one set screw but it fits tight to the burner tube. I used it a couple times to evaluate it and it's been on the shelf since. Nice enough burner, stable and HOT but mine work fine, they ain't broke I'm not fixing them. I gave Jay's burners a good review, they ARE good burners. Frosty The Lucky.

Forged in Fire isn't an educational program, it's entertainment designed, written and produced by Hollywood types. The first couple episodes I noticed one of the judges cringing when the final two contestants were sent to their home "Forges." Oh and when the set was called a "Forge." It's entertainment and happily lacking in the contrived drama that seems to be the main stay of modern entertainment. Remember when the Learning Channel actually had educational programs? Discovery Channel is now largely about UFOs, Sasquatch hunters and "Monsters" everywhere. Oh I almost forgot gold mining. I have to remind myself of what constitutes modern "education" when a kid asks a question that indicates they've done zero research even when they think they've read a LOT. I watch FIF for entertainment, getting a look at the finalist's home shops is gravy. I loved both war hammers though I think the goat head would be my second choice in combat. Frosty The Lucky.

Are you spreading rumors again? We been talking. Frosty The Lucky.

Do you proof read your posts before submitting them? If you do then I understand how a "nice looking GAMER could make you forge better." NO, I don't need nor want to know about the game thank you very much. Nothing wrong with good looking tools though pretty ones should be kept in display cases or you'll get them dirty. "Prettiness builds confidence" make me think of a Monte Python skit. "Oh I'm a Lumberjack and I'm okay I sleep all night and I work all day!" Frosty The Lucky.

You're not really that hard to put up with. If we could just slow you down a little you'd be using your burner now and asking about making things. I Never say there's no such thing as a dumb question, I only have to try a little bit to come up with one myself. I have other less straight line ways to get that point across. for instance, "Ask a question you might look dumb for a minute, don't ask it and be dumb forever." About your post and how combining how Wayne mounts a flare, whether or not I use one and how many "purposes" other folk think flares have confuses you. You make my point for me. Stop mixing different plans, makers and internet cluster nut burner jibberish. If you're building one of Wayne's burners build HIS burner stop asking me questions, stop watching Youtube videos, etc. One set of plans, one material list, one use. Forget the reasons why a thing works, if it works use it and don't worry about it. Understanding it on a fundamental level isn't going to help maybe it'll be interesting sometime down the road but not now. Trying to "understand" the things is why you keep asking the same questions over and over. Well that and you're looking at too many people's ideas of why it does what it does. Take a few courses in fluid dynamics if you really want to "understand" this stuff. I just tinkered up something that works in a pickup truck sort of way. Others like Mike have tinkered up a formula 1 version. The real goal is get steel hot enough to mash at will. Yes? Frosty The Lucky.

The Alaska club got a pretty good deal from Seattle Pottery Supply. I THINK that's the name but I'm blanking. A search for Zircopax should hit on plenty of suppliers. Frosty The Lucky.

Welcome aboard Eric, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header some of our other NM members might not hide. Lots of good guys down thataway. I can't do more than venture a guess that's a brush chopper like a machete but don't know. It sure looks like a commercial make and that sir about exhausts my sword expertise. Frosty The Lucky.

A clapper for a wind chime. Oh okay something practical, a weight to keep sheet metal from blowing off in a wind. Frosty The Lucky.

Welcome aboard, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the IFI gang live within visiting distance. You're over thinking the forge, interlocking fire brick sounds much cooler than it really would be. I take it you're making a coal forge in which case the perlite is completely superfluous. If on the other hand you're thinking of making a propane forge they aren't up to the job at all. Portland cement and a propane forge are a deal killer it won't survive the heat. Leaving out the cement and perlite and that's a pretty good recipe for a rammed forge pan liner though the ash isn't necessary. It doesn't hurt but it's not necessary. An old friend and I made light insulating fire bricks once for his pottery kiln. That recipe was IIRC, 1pt fire clay, 2pts sand, 1-2pts saw dust. Firing them was the serious PITA and we couldn't keep the fire going long enough for a good fire. He used them but personally I'd take up a couple odd jobs and buy brick. Unless you're building a Formula 1 super forge they aren't helped by getting fancy. First decide what kind of fuel you're going to use, if solid go to the "solid fuel forge" section of Iforge and read it. If a gas forge go to that section and read it. While there are some really top notch how to videos online, Youtube say, until you have a handle on the craft they're more likely to send you down dead end or harmful paths. All it takes to be a Youtube "star" is a video camera and connection, the general quality of blacksmithing videos is pretty poor. Do you have smithing books. These are my suggestions: "The complete Modern Blacksmith," by, Alexander Weygers. "The New Edge of the Anvil" by Jack Andrews, "The Backyard Blacksmith" by Lorelei Sims. There are more but those are a good foundation library for the beginner. Did you notice I didn't include one book about bladesmithing? We have a number of world class bladesmiths on IFI published authors in fact. The reason I didn't include any of them, worthy though they are is because you need to know how to forge the steel before you make blades. Sure you CAN learn both but it'll take well more than 2x as long as learning the craft in order. Once you're proficient at the anvil learning to forge blades is "only" a matter of learning a new steel and a couple new processes. Trying to learn all of it at once WILL lead to many more failures and it's so much harder trying to figure out what went wrong when a number of the possible causes are new to you. Frosty The Lucky.

Be at peace Brother, prayers on the way. Frosty The Lucky.

Pretty nice build. I looked up the Fireworks kiln wash and the MSDS. It looks like a good high alumina and kaolin wash. If you were to come up with some Zircopax it'd turn the Fireworks into a high IR reflective wash. When you going to do a few welds in it? The wash will go a long way towards resisting borax. Frosty The Lucky.

You're looking at too many burner plans and confusing terms and parts. Not everybody uses the same term for the same piece. You really REALLY need to pick ONE set of plans and follow it only. For instance, While correct Neil is also incorrect but it depends on who's plans you're using. A flare as used on Ron Reil's burner is NOT to spread the flame, not even remotely. It's to slow it down by making it fill a larger volume and so increase the vacuum at the air intakes. More intake air means you can feed it more fuel and generate more BTUs per second. Then, slowing the velocity of the flame makes it stay closer to the nozzle and more stable. This action fools a LOT of people into thinking the flare is a "flame holder." Just because it helps hold the flame at the nozzle does NOT mean it IS a flame holder. It's an induction aid. Nor is it a "super Charger" as has been said. One set of plans. Just one and try to ask help from the person who made the plans. For instance if you were to ask me about problems with one of the burners on Wayne's page I'd have to read his page then question YOU and guess. One set of plans. Have I said that enough times? Frosty The Lucky.

Welcome aboard Kuroiakuma, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might actually MEET a bladesmith. 6 months to make a knife? Good luck on that one, especially if you're in too big a hurry to read the bladesmithing section. If you missed the knife, sword, heat treat, etc. etc. sections of Iforge then you didn't bother to read the opening page or didn't understand what you read. You really REALLY need to do some research and that isn't just asking questions to the world. And forget Youtube till you've learned to sift the wheat from the chaff. You'll get plenty of chaff replies and if you don't have at least a little bit of a handle on the subject you'll get so mired down is suggestions, how tos and general misinformed stuff you'll lose ground. Frosty The Lucky.

That puts you about mid way alright. Who made the forge? Probably better PM me a name, he might not want to go public. Nice piece of stock for an anvil, we should talk about it before you start trying to make it look like a London Pattern anvil. I'll shoot you a PM as soon as I get back from a dump run. I'm on my way out the door now but a bell rang on my comp. Frosty The Lucky.

If you work from the rail side you'll be much less likely to open a knuckle on the hardy die. The small pics are hard to see but I agree with Charles about the large hammer face. You want a smooth shallow radius with rounded edges, NOT a big honking 45 on the edges. Sharp corners are the enemy. The sheet metal hammers are body hammers, shrinking hammers to be specific. One has the plannishing face and I can't see the other well enough to say.. Frosty The Lucky.

Welcome aboard Blake, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header there might be folk close enough to visit. I'm in the Valley and a number of guys are in the Anchorage area. There are a couple members farther out but no a lot. One is in North Pole and one we haven't heard from for a while is in Sterling. Most of us are in the Anch and Mat Su areas though. Frosty The Lucky.

Yeah you can chip the edges if you're ham handedly and apeish enough. Frosty The Lucky.

Mike, Guys: You're getting sucked into this Troll's game. He's just one of those sad people who can't find satisfaction unless it's causing strife. His thread has nothing to do with burners it's just about HIM and a sad SAD attempt to gain attention. Let's just ignore the foolishness and let him pay his own game by himself. I am. Frosty The Lucky.

I'm just seeing random code and I LOVE pics. Frosty The Lucky.

Welcome aboard Creature, glad to have you. Once you get to know me you'll know how much trouble I have resisting a good straight line and appreciate how hard I'm working to resist the supreme temptation of Petawawa. I mean REALLY the possibilities are endless! To answer your question. NO that stuff is for patching your fire place or BBQ, not lining a gas forge. The label in the pic says it has a max temp of 2100f. WAY too low, that's on the low end of most anything. I tell students to put their work back in the fire when it gets that cool. There have been a few good threads about refractory linings just recently. See you there. Frosty The Lucky.

I wouldn't bother with anything special, I'd make it easy to replace. If you put the shoes on a pivot so they "weather vane" in the direction of travel then a little bit of a slipper front is all they need. Think small ski. If you use rd. stock for the attachment the weather vane is taken care of and it's easy to adjust the blower height with washers. You want your ribbon higher off bare ground than good pavement. Frosty The Lucky.

Actually that's covered by one of the natural laws of the universe. No not the ones Newton and others have tried to foist on us. Murphy's law is probably one of the best known by name. Besides Mr. Murphy's two that seem to be prime in my life are: The Nonreciprocating Law. Mention something good and it'll never happen, mention something bad and it'll happen immediately. Then there's the, 90-90 law. This one is one of the prime laws governing GVT. work. "The first 50% of a job takes 90% of the time and budget, the other 50% takes the other 90%." Frosty The Lucky.