pkrankow

An anvil, on an anvil with another anvil...pretty cool. My only suggestion (besides the already re-hashed bolt) is a second socket for the arm sorta under the horn. Choices are nice. Phil

My blower leaks everything out. I squirt in some oil from an oil can at the start of work, and every 4 hours or so while working, unless it sounds louder for some reason. I was using ATF but switched to 20W because I don't like the smell of ATF. If I over oil I have oil in the connection from the blower to the tue of the forge. Since I am using a lined canvas hose I really want oil it to stay dry. Phil

If you get some contact cement for rubber, you can trim the extra rubber, then glue it to the installed rubber with a generous overlap (follow the instructions on the glue) and have the whole thing done. Making the outside of the nozzle neater may help. Phil

Waterjet places generate scrap. You might get lucky and get to buy scrap from a regular run. 22 gauge mild shears easily. This sounds like a knockout punch without the hole in the middle. Phil

The "huh, there went $50 quick" mistakes are much preferred! Smaller denominations are, of course, better. The "Darnit, there went X hours of effort" mistakes are also not too terrible, in the grand scheme of things. Again, small single digit values for X are preferred. The "I guess I need to re-dress this tool" mistakes are common and can add up to frusteration, calling it a day and coming back later is frequently the best answer for these. Often, especially for beginners, it is a sign that you are tired. Taking a break because you are missing the mark with your tools is the best way to prevent the "Dear, I need to get to the hospital quick" If you miss once, take a break, get some water, maybe a snack, and fresh air. Miss again, call it a day and clean up. Phil

Like this? Phil

Knowing where the water tap is at the open forge. Very important. Phil

I wish my anvil had edges that nice! Yes, they are not perfect, some spots are chipped out, but the majority of the edge is a smooth radius of varying size. If there are any burrs in those chips clean that up with a file or sandpaper, but otherwise don't worry about it. There are not very many tasks that require particularly sharp edges, and an edge tool for the hardy will satisfy that need. Phil

I am glad there are people who can preserve these pieces of history. Thank you for posting the sale pictures. Is it a safe guess that you are an interested observer and neither buyer or seller? Phil

I used 1 1/2 inch. It makes the blast faster, which means you need a deeper fire. When I went to a single 1/2 inch bar for a grate it helped since the blast was less restricted than with a sewer grate. I am building a bigger forge with a 3 inch thinwall steel post from a clothsline as a tue. If you can weld the material choices available become more or less unlimited! Phil

Some stale bagles are impressively hard! LOL The rock, and this shaft are both far from ideal, but without anything better available it will work, at least for small stuff. Phil

Yes, even though the face is small. The face of your anvil should be at least a little larger than the face of the hammer you are using. You may want to cut the bar off flat on one end so you can stand it upright instead of flat on its side. If you burry the end in a log, and maybe some dirt to get the right height, it will be less loud. Drill a hole in the log first. If you insist on using it flat on the side use some chain and bolts to pull the bar down solid to your stump so it cannot move. It will be much more quiet after doing this. Since it seems you live in a rural area, look for a large chunk of heavy stone like granite or basalt. 25-50 kg (100 kg if you can manage it) with a flatish face. While not anywhere near ideal, it will work until you can get better. Rock will crack and spall under heat, but some types are more resistant than others. Also find your way over to Anvilfire.com under FAQ's they have a guide on dressing anvil edges. It is worth a look. They do not permit deep linking, so I can't post a link. You may also want a taller stump to set up on. Anvil height is determined by the body size of the person using it. When you stand upright, with your arms at your side, and your fingers curled into a loose fist, like holding a hammer, the anvil face should be at your knuckles. Higher, to about your wrist while standing upright is acceptable, but may be too high for anything but light work. Lower is useful for heavier work. Stepping up onto something to raise your height makes the anvil lower with a higher anvil. A flattened mound of dirt, or a strong wooden platform of adequate size so you can't step off accidentally are means to adjust your height to the anvil small amounts. Other anvil heights can be useful, even on the ground for upsetting long bars has been used! Phil

Pecan is good. It is sold as hickory (and Hickory as pecan) because it is very difficult to tell pecan and hickory apart after it is planked out. The hard part about a stump is if it is not burried in the dirt, it is pretty hard to fasten to the ground. That said, I use a movable stump of unknown hardwood under my 168# Trenton. When it wears out, won't sit flat or splits the rest of the way I will make a tripod base for the anvil. Phil

With more information I would go $2/lb, maybe. Definately $1/lb or more. I don't need an anvil though, so I would not be willing to pay $3-$3.50/lb even if it was worth it. That piece of track is pretty sweet too! Nice job. Gonna need a serious base to put it on, fastened down well and fastened to the ground to get full value out of it though. Welcome Aboard! Planet Earth is a big place, and value for tools varies considerably depending on where you are. IFI is also represented world wide. How about putting in some location information into your profile? Phil

Reading is a good start, Harris and Heers Basic Blacksmithing, available as a free download, has a welth of useful information. I second seeing what local groups are able to help, (or if someone is offering classes in your area). Many blacksmithing groups have weekly open forge nights where experienced people will assist your hands on learning. It also means you do not need to collect a bunch of tools and have space for things right away (and you can find out if you like the experience at low cost) Also where about on the planet are you? IFI is represented world wide, and there may be someone nearby who is wiling to help. Phil

Solid fastenings are the best anvil mute. Nice scores all around! Phil

Any tin or other solderable sheet metal assembly you can think of. Lamps, lamp sheilds (punched or reflective), containers, boxes, model airplane fueltanks (I need a 1/2 oz uniflow tank for 1/2A, please :P I'll use an electric iron when I am ready to make it myself), leaded glass, picture or mirror frames... Phil

Have you done tests on your welds in the past? If you have not make some sample welds and try breaking them. There are some standard tests that can be easily done, or approximated, in the shop (bend tests). (mine aren't perfect either) Phil

You can build all the valves as separate assemblies, instead of permanently built into the bellows. The valve assembly can then be held like a picture in a picture frame, or a window in a window frame with clamps and caulk. This may make it easier to build high quality valves. Phil

If you have hardware or home improvement stores over there, look in plumbing at a PVC (plastic) sump pump discharge check valve. They are typically a rubber flap valve that seats on a rubber disk seat. They work fairly well with low pressure air. A sump pump is for pumping water out of a basement or crawl space under a house. A "duck" valve is not well suited to air. The insides look like a duck bill or bird beak, instead of a flap. A duck valve needs more back pressure to seal than a flap valve. The only problem is the valves are not available in many sizes since pumps use only a few different pipe sizes. You will need something heat-proof to take the air to the forge as plastic cannot be close to the heat. Phil

You might welcome 12 ft walls and a little more headroom if you get the luxury of a striker. I like the idea of a front overhang better than the small awnings. Make it big and sell it to the wife as a "carport" and keep it clear to park a car under it for the winter. Having the bulk of the snow and ice stay off the car is always nice. Having no hail damage to the car is even nicer! A separate 6 inch flue for the stove is relatively cheap for proper smoke-free operation. Phil

Yes, the material you are welding and the electrode used affect each other, and the finished weld. The surface condition also affects the weld quality with clean, bright metal making a cleaner easier to weld joint with any electrode. I have some printouts from Miller's website, the Guidelines for SMAW (it is a pdf), it has an amperage selection chart in the range my machine is capable of using. Lincoln has a similar pdf book, but they describe using a bigger machine than I have. google welding electrode selection guide pdf and you will get these and several more similar downloads from other manufacturers. I did purchace the book HWHII mentioned, and compare it to a college textbook, but better written and more readable than most. The first part is design, lots of good information. The price is a steal, less than 1/4 the price of a typical college textbook! Phil

George M Thank you for the clear explination. Phil

You wouldn't be the first I guess it is pretty easy... Phil

Make sure you use a non-checking rod. You do not want surface cracks. (no I didn't look up your choice) A build up rod is often the correct choice, high hardness, high impact resistance. Work hardening is accepable. Wear resistance is not high on the list because forging is relatively non-abrasive (vs digging sand, gravel and dirt). Since you are in England material choices are not always the same as here in the US. If you talk with the person at your welding supply shop during a slower time they may be able to help you select the correct material. Get some Tempil sticks while you are there in the correct pre-heat temperatures (just below, at, and just above) while you are there. Phil