pkrankow

Write down the failures too. Good to know both what works and what doesn't Phil

I use some Mexican made hammers that I reground the face(s) and peins. They work pretty good for a $7 hammer, although most have needed rehandled since the original handle split because of being poorly installed. I guess that makes them $12 hammers now. I am sure the more expensive custom forged hammers are better in many ways, but I don't have that kind of money to spend currently. Phil

http://www.iforgeiron.com/page/index.html/_/blueprints/100-series/bp0101-anvil-repair-r330 another set of directions. Phil

Different types of rust, red rust and forge scale. If it is rust, then forge it, unless it is rusted away to powder and flakes. Then you need a bloomery. If it has been weathering and IS _NOT_ rusty, don't forge it. (at least until you determine why it is not rusting, and make accommodations) There is a saying "if it don't rust, don't trust" that helps us stay safe. Coatings on the metal can gas off when heated. Zinc plating is bad, cadmium is worse! Chrome isn't very good or healthy either. (BTW all three can kill you when heated) Paints stink, and can release noxious fumes, but can also hide platings and other coatings. Zinc and cadmium can be pickled off, along with some other coatings. Chrome can be ground off or a plater can strip it and recover the chrome (useful if you are dealing with hundreds of pounds) Google "metal fume fever" and ignore all recommendations to "just drink milk" and get to the hospital if you are ever experiencing it. Phil

Got a container larger than the tub? A pond maybe? Throw it in for a few days. Really dry barrels are like really dry boats wooden and don't tighten up right away. You can caulk the seams with silicone from the inside or the outside. You can also drive cotton yarn into the seams instead, or prior to using silicone. Use a thick blunt putty knife to push the yarn in. Phil

If you want leaf and coil springs call up your local repair shops. They often times have to pay to have their scrap disposed of. Show up dressed to get dirty, and bring a forged trinket. You can probably get all the scrap spring you want. Buying new however makes production of an item easier because it is a "known" material vs "mystery metal" It also saves your time processing out scrap so you can use it. Phil

looks like a clockjack with missing parts...maybe Phil

EEP! Wow that is wrecked. You probably would have to put down a pad of nickle weld and finish with work hardening hard face buildup, unlimited passes. Neither product is cheap, and then there is the time involved. Phil

Might want a table around it but otherwise that is a sweet setup. See if you can find a discarded sheet pan, or an old steel shelf so you can have some added fuel storage. Cut a hole in the sheet so the wok fits in. Nicely done! Phil

For practice material lawnmower blades are good. They may be good for proper use, but you will have to test the material first as they are mystery metal. While many blades are simple high carbon steel, some are alloy steel, and others are carbide impregnated exotic stuff. Phil

http://www.iforgeiro...22-mokume-gane/ some reading http://www.iforgeiro...ideo-in-german/ a video and more reading. The metal looks wet and sweaty. It is still solid at welding temperature. Make sure you wash and flux, I used borax in water to do both at once (don't rinse). Flux again with dry flux (boric acid or borax) when it is hot enough for flux to stick. It wold look kinda boring if it was just one color. Phil

Get the anvil before you cut the stump. I used the longer bars so I could use rebar tie wire instead of bolts. I was able to straighten the bars out afterwards. Phil

Bronze and cupro-nickle should look good using two different denominations. Are your coins "sandwich" type where the edge shows different colors of metals as three distinct layers? If they are then you need only one denomination. Phil

It will work once, maybe more than once, but it is sacrificial anyways. I used 1x1/4, about 4 inches long, and wired it tight when I did "quarters". So your only anvil is the flat on the back of the vise? That isn't very strong. A sizable chunk of plain steel would be much better. Phil

That is a screw press, and should be a single lead screw. It is comparable to a hydraulic press used for pushing bearings out. It probably generates good tonnage, but relatively slow. It has utility if you can get it for the right price, and have space, but it is NOT a fly press. It may be useful for limited hot work, but will be better for cold work if you were to get it. Phil

Very poetic. Phil

Those are clean looking. Very nice. Phil

Got rough general dimensions? The width of a typical fork tine is pretty nice for an anvil face. Phil

I have a timing chain from a car that I plan to do this with, but with a D for my boot toe. A weight is another option. I also find that Vise Grip welding clamps can hook through my hardy hole and effectively clamp smaller parts WITH NO MODIFICATIONS to anything! It is a little fiddly to get in and out, but not bad. It does not take much effort to use once adjusted. Phil

Alright, impressive image, but so not practical. The smaller blades for candle bases or something equally decorative might be cool though, and less hazardous. Phil

for contact rollers and guide rollers Polar Bear forge http://polarbearforge.com/grinder_kit_breakdown.html recommends http://usaknifemaker.com/ The owner of Polar Bear forge is a member here, but I have not dealt with either company. Phil

http://www.grainger....in_dim_search=1 Lockable is expensive http://www.safetyemp...etail.htm?07202 no idea who these guys are but $20 sounds good. My google search was gas cylinder valve caps under shopping. If a pair of caps sets you back $40 that would be cheap insurance, especially since you then keep the caps for all times you are transporting your tanks. I would talk to the place that services your tanks, or your local welding equipment supplier. It sounds like you are moving common small purchased tanks like in the kits sold at many big box stores. Phil Better search under shopping welding cylinder caps Phil http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/scan/fi=products/st=db/sp=results/co=1/sf=category/se=Cutting%20Accessories/op=eq/nu=0/bs=1/ml=25/tf=description/to=x/se=1/sf=inactive/op=ne/sf=tax_category/se=1/op=eq/va=banner_text=/va=banner_image=.html?id=JfXUjUoa I have ordered from these people with a good quick transaction Phil

I'll give you that one. That does conjure an impressive image. That is an idea for something done out of smaller saw blades too. Phil

Plugging 'file work hammer site:iforgeiron.com" into google provides about 9k returns...If you massage the keywords around and/or use image search you may have luck. Phil

Nice rebound! At 300# you won't need to look for a larger anvil. You may want to look for an 80#-150# anvil for travel if you start doing shows. How do you plan to mount it? Phil