gewoon ik

To be honest. I get the response of acein. And also to be honest, Steve is not always the most helpfull guy around here. Yes he knows a lot, and yes if you have patience to google up the old treats, you find a lot of info he shared. But half the old threats are unfortunalty unreadable because of missing posts, missing pictures, ... (i know a lot of fora has the same problem, 2 or 3 times a major update in 10+ years and you end up with this kind of mess unfortunatly). A direct link to his book might helping as well maybe (to buy, not to free read ). Or to share again, because I know also almost nothing about this and might learn something.

I know shaina i sometimes hot chisel a part, wondering why I heated it up so I can split it hot with a chisel, when i could already be busy finishing the part if i just cut it with a cut off/ hacksaw. Need to make some hinges amd did the same thing. They are in scrap, not because of the split, but because I &@# all the rest up. Thanks everybody for the tips and hits. Even if you think i don't read and just discuss. That is me. I listen and think out loud (or in this case, i read and typ it out ). Please don't stop just because. I like it and learn a lot ( if not blacksmithing, it is english)

As seen on youtube. Always made stuff, first repairing my car, than that needed welding so came more fabrication and a tiny bit machining (on borrowed tools, guy moved, so did his tools, never machined again). Waching youtube for info, ideas, ... and came across the channel of torbjörn åhman in my feed. Hmmm blacksmithing, what is that. And 3 year later was corona and as soon as the smithing lessons started, i was enrolled and smithing. Still smithing, still lessons to this day. Still having fun.

The bend in the fullered area is the intention. I bended it also by cooling the rounded part and the twisted part so that only the fullered part was orange-red (after all the cooling), to make sure it bended in the fullered part. But reading all the comments, even when everything is yellow, it will still bend in the fullered part. so maybe not cool everything that much and bend it so there is more heat left in the part that needs to bend to see if the stays nicer. the twist is done is 20mm (or you would start with 3/4", exact 13/16") square and I fullered to 12 or 13mm (+/- 1/2"). Maybe less fullering would also help, go to 15 or 16mm (+/- 5/8") instead. My used (spring)fuller has a diameter of 18mm (for you probably also 3/4" exact 11/16"). Billy there is yes, at least for piping I know

I agree on the "sharpness" of the bend. I also prefer to have a bigger radius, but somehow they bend that short. Both without jig. Stick the rounded part in my hardyhole and it was 90 degrees in no time. And my testpiece, same. It was square, but i fullered it and also to round because i like the look. The explanation of the length of deformation makes sense. I heated the part in my gasforge and cooled the rounded part so it doesnt deform. Side effect, the fullered part is not yellow but orange-red. Maybe that is the problem.

Doorhandle for my front door. But with a bit tweeking, i noticed a crack in one of the bends (inside). Also the bends look rough, rimpeled. Will probably make again and do the bending and tweeking hotter. Was very happy with how the twist came out, very evenly.

What an anti climax. After all was over, i locked up and played with the goats Glad only material damage.

and sunday you have iced over roads and monday the worst traffic to work

i have recently discovered that led (even the daylight) can change the perception of colors and make them look untrue (but if you don't know better, all is good) They also have a value for that. In my workshop I use a mixture of floodlights (small ones 10Watt/piece) and some overhead TL fixtures (half of them has a led in it, when they break, they get replaced). Over my workbench LED's for plenty light. Mixture of different lightcolors ranging from 5500K to 2300K. But most are 4000K; somehow i like that color (and most led TL replacements we use in that space are that color) The floodlights I used because I cannot install overhead lighting everywhere (rented place and ceiling is covered with isolation, no visible rafters and no structure to securly attach something in). So on the walls I installed plenty small floodlights so i have plenty of light from different sources and angles to eliminate as much as possible shadows. Works accectable.

but true, unfortunatly.

Labeling the cables and on the scematics is a good thing. Now you know, buy 10+ years later you are glad you have done it.

I'm in camp frosty as well. Never seen a "normal" steel in hex.

Good work jen. Anvil, good to see you posting again.

Nice done. Will also take your idea and modify it to suit my taste, but the basic idea will be yours. Nice piece. Fergot about this challange btw.

Thanks.

goods, sound logic that you have to account for that. Probably would made the same mistake as you did. jlc you have a link to that instagram? Not a big user of instagram, but I know a lot can be found on it.

does it have to be a bloody mask when grinding bones? Or is a clean mask also good? All joking aside, you make some good observations and nothing more to add.

like the look of that ridge as well. Size square tube?

hmmm like the idea frosty. 3 guys holding on to thr pipe. 1 hand on the stovepipe and a beer in the other. you should better make a stronger foundation and walls to support the supporting guys that are supporting the stovepipe.

i see forge project in the future. Some very nice supporting bars to replace those staywires

A lot of the chimneys here all have a (stainless) steel pipe in them. Even if they are made from bricks. Easy to sweep, less debris that can catch on all the bricks and mortar in between. My neighbour had a chimney fire. Flame out of the top as well. He burns wood in a fireplace and has his chimney yearly sweeped by a pro. But at the end of the burning season (march) and over 70+ years of fire in the fireplace (house is from 1949, build without central heating, now modified) has left its marks. And halfway something has catched fire. No structural damage, but after inspection he went for the pipe inside. Some mortar between the bricks was flush with soot and creosote even after cleaning. His chimney was still good to use without the pipe, but he didn't trust it anymore. He says he feels the difference on his second floor. It stays cooler, less heat comming of the chimney. My dad had a damper, down just above his fireplace. Kept the cold draft out if closed. If you forgot to open it, you notice very quick. There was no chimney so all the smoke was in the living room. The damper was closed or open. It "fell" down when you opened it, so all debris that went into the chimney from top, fell into the fireplace.

Famous last words

I agree, but she had a couple but uses a trowel the most because handy to her (except flat and big). If not, can easy be changed

Finished the small shovel Happy but some small improvements are needed for the next one. Also not happy on ending the handle.

why make your life easy, when you can make it hard as well?