keithgartner

I have a couple P.W.'s and have researched them a bit, and my guess is, that the logo (cross in shield) was carved in by the purchaser, as were the B's stamped into the base. The center number of the weight stamp has been carved away, when making the vertical cross line. The weight is in British Standard. The first #, 1cwt = 112 pounds, 2nd. # 1/4 cwt. = 28 pounds, 3rd. # is pounds. My main anvil is stamped 1 0 9 = 121pounds U.S.

I would buy it, try to get them down some, $ 150.00 is better, especially for resale, but $250.00 is ok if you're gonna use it. Just my opinion!

How often do you hammer iron? If you just get in the shop on week-ends or less, and don't warm up as Dale suggested, and excersize the muscles you need for smithing, that could be your only problem. Is your anvil between knuckles and wrist when standing erect? Are you getting steel hot enough to move with-out excessive hammering? Are you swinging with your shoulder?

Welding heat would be, bright yellow almost white. The size of your forge is cavernous, especially for one burner, choke it down to about 6" dia, with Kao-wool, or something similar, use the bricks as the floor.

I worked machine maintenance for years for a concrete contractor, I sorta pushed him into fabricating railings, so I could get the " ATTA BOY " 's on the finished product. It is still that way today, when I'm finished and sombody says " cool", or how'd he do that.

I don't see how there is a forward / backward, to it.

Anivls bring different prices in different parts of the world. What part are you in? That said $ 250.00 US sounds fair.

Peter Wright, Age ?, CWT 1.0.9, US pounds 121, Bought at farm auction Steelville, Missouri, USA in 2006 $ 155.00,

Beaumont Metal Works, Manufacturer of Industrial belt grinders and finishing equipment

I had always taken a SOP,(seat of pants) approach to smithing, as it is my hobby, and I made a tool as needed. Anyway old style tire tool/jackhandles, have worked for me as eye punches, chasing tools, etc., they have enough carbon content to harden and temper a bit, and they are fairly durable. Also the 5/8" dia. fits my hand well. For slitters drifts and punches, I use steering components, ( drag links, tie rods ). All that said I'm starting on a set per Brian Brazeal, from a coil spring.

I have a 24", stamped steel, Buffalo rivet forge, and blower, I BBQ on it all the time.

As Glenn stated above, NEVER use liquids to start a forge fire, as they can ( and will ) migrate down and through the tyure, and out the ash dump, on to the floor. This may not have happened to you yet, but if you persist, eventually your fire will start where you don't want it.

I have arthuritis and I was putting an eyebrow in metal (or wood), on the left side of hammer blow. It was tiring and painful, to change my wrist angle, so I started shaving my handles to move the hammer axis about 3 or 4 degrees to the right, by taking off material, at 8 and 2 o'clock, hammer head down looking at bottom of handle. I now hit squarely with my natural swing. I have also done this with coushined grip hammers. I have used, drawknives, planes, belt sander, angle grinde w/flap wheel, to shave handle, they all work for me.

Good work Connor! That was faith Rob. Keith

1972, You were smithing when smithing wasn't cool, ( as "cool" as it is now ). I think it is great you had the foresight to take the risks, you did, no doubt with some trepidation and possibly grief, over whether the expenditures, would all work out, glad they did, and continue to, with the skill and dedication, to your buisness, and craft. I love the "Christmas tree" analogy. I'm in the refrigeration buissness, I built one of if not, the first trailor mounted refrigerant reclaiming machines, in my area, to service, grocery and other large jobs, before government regulations on venting refrigerants, hocked everything I had. Paid back many times over. Thank You, Sir, for this and many other posts, all enjoyable and informative. Keith

Try this I think it's what you're, wanting. Blacksmiths Depot |Rope Spring Swage Keith

I have an eclectic array of tools, self made, found, borrowed, purchased new, so I use a 2lb. drill hammer and keep one face dressed, so after slitting, punching, etc. with the flat tool striking face, I can flip it over and clean up any distortion the procedure may have caused. Keith

Thank's for sharing, a real time and patients saver. Keith

Great Job, I am planning a forge build for this winter, ( USA ), and will be incorporating your air shutter handle in mine. Thank you for the great pics, keep them comming. And welcome to, IFI. Keith

What would the flame temp be in open air that is your concerne in an open forge. I'm having a hard time believing, one could get forging heat with wood gas only. I sounds like it might work in a closed oven type forge, ( gasser ). I would like to hear more. Thanks for the post.

Yes I do, as a matter of fact.

Those are clean-out plugs, because of the T- shape of the burner tahke plugs out and brush side to side. you wouldnt believe what get's in there.

Welcome Jeff, I'm Keith, I'm bouncing back and forth between forums, gallery and chat. Any way ther is a huge amount of knowledge here in IFI, from all over the world so join in, have a ball. Keith

I must disagree, ACR or K type copper tube will work just fine, so if you know an HVAC tech. they will be able to hook you up.