keithgartner

I don't see how there is a forward / backward, to it.

Anivls bring different prices in different parts of the world. What part are you in? That said $ 250.00 US sounds fair.

Peter Wright, Age ?, CWT 1.0.9, US pounds 121, Bought at farm auction Steelville, Missouri, USA in 2006 $ 155.00,

Beaumont Metal Works, Manufacturer of Industrial belt grinders and finishing equipment

I had always taken a SOP,(seat of pants) approach to smithing, as it is my hobby, and I made a tool as needed. Anyway old style tire tool/jackhandles, have worked for me as eye punches, chasing tools, etc., they have enough carbon content to harden and temper a bit, and they are fairly durable. Also the 5/8" dia. fits my hand well. For slitters drifts and punches, I use steering components, ( drag links, tie rods ). All that said I'm starting on a set per Brian Brazeal, from a coil spring.

I have a 24", stamped steel, Buffalo rivet forge, and blower, I BBQ on it all the time.

As Glenn stated above, NEVER use liquids to start a forge fire, as they can ( and will ) migrate down and through the tyure, and out the ash dump, on to the floor. This may not have happened to you yet, but if you persist, eventually your fire will start where you don't want it.

I have arthuritis and I was putting an eyebrow in metal (or wood), on the left side of hammer blow. It was tiring and painful, to change my wrist angle, so I started shaving my handles to move the hammer axis about 3 or 4 degrees to the right, by taking off material, at 8 and 2 o'clock, hammer head down looking at bottom of handle. I now hit squarely with my natural swing. I have also done this with coushined grip hammers. I have used, drawknives, planes, belt sander, angle grinde w/flap wheel, to shave handle, they all work for me.

Good work Connor! That was faith Rob. Keith

1972, You were smithing when smithing wasn't cool, ( as "cool" as it is now ). I think it is great you had the foresight to take the risks, you did, no doubt with some trepidation and possibly grief, over whether the expenditures, would all work out, glad they did, and continue to, with the skill and dedication, to your buisness, and craft. I love the "Christmas tree" analogy. I'm in the refrigeration buissness, I built one of if not, the first trailor mounted refrigerant reclaiming machines, in my area, to service, grocery and other large jobs, before government regulations on venting refrigerants, hocked everything I had. Paid back many times over. Thank You, Sir, for this and many other posts, all enjoyable and informative. Keith

Try this I think it's what you're, wanting. Blacksmiths Depot |Rope Spring Swage Keith

I have an eclectic array of tools, self made, found, borrowed, purchased new, so I use a 2lb. drill hammer and keep one face dressed, so after slitting, punching, etc. with the flat tool striking face, I can flip it over and clean up any distortion the procedure may have caused. Keith

Thank's for sharing, a real time and patients saver. Keith

Great Job, I am planning a forge build for this winter, ( USA ), and will be incorporating your air shutter handle in mine. Thank you for the great pics, keep them comming. And welcome to, IFI. Keith

What would the flame temp be in open air that is your concerne in an open forge. I'm having a hard time believing, one could get forging heat with wood gas only. I sounds like it might work in a closed oven type forge, ( gasser ). I would like to hear more. Thanks for the post.

Yes I do, as a matter of fact.

Those are clean-out plugs, because of the T- shape of the burner tahke plugs out and brush side to side. you wouldnt believe what get's in there.

Welcome Jeff, I'm Keith, I'm bouncing back and forth between forums, gallery and chat. Any way ther is a huge amount of knowledge here in IFI, from all over the world so join in, have a ball. Keith

I must disagree, ACR or K type copper tube will work just fine, so if you know an HVAC tech. they will be able to hook you up.

Just another thought. My neighbor has one and we smith together, at rendesvoues, and we attached a bracket to two legs and put a sheetmetal heat shield over the belt and pully. 1. Less weight. 2. Didn't lose fire pan depth. When he bought it there were remanents of a cloth belt and wire belt coupler rusted to the large pulley. Also bailing wire around same legs presumably for a heat shield. Last thought. I bet when forge was manufactured the belt was an asbestos material, the modern replacement would be a fireproof fibreglass material. Keith

I take it you don't want to make your own, which is fine. I won't suggest any one blacksmith tool supplier, but there are a few online that have excellent tools. I will also assume you don't have a power hammer. That being the case, as Thomas stated get the longest punches, slitters, chisels 12" or so you can find. I think you have better control with them, verses the handled ones. Keith

BBQ regulators are only designed for 60,000 BTU MAX. I wouldn't think that would be near enough, volume for a forge. My weed burner has a only a needle valve, no regulator, it goes from yellow flame to 500,000 BTUH, with a 1/16" orface, if you regulate down to 11.0 inches W.C. that would be only 27,286 BTU. Keith

You can make tapered threads traditionally. 1) By making tapered swages for the various sizes, which involves making a rounded chisel, and cut the threads into the swage, top and bottom, making sure they line up, then forging the taper on hook etc., place in bottom swage, line up top swage and tap, then clean up with three cornered, or tapered file. Sounds like a lot of work, but If you are going to make a lot of items, that's the way to go. 2) Forge your taper on item and cut threads with three cornered or tapered file.

It's a good deal when both parties are happy. Nice addition to your equipment. Keith