mandomaniac

Hey folks, Well after being inspired by the different mini presses I have seen...(many thanks to Mr. Kelly and Mr. Toler ) I decided to just grab it and growl. I designed this one to be just a bit bigger and allow interchangeable dies. Used four uprights rather than two. A bit taller as well to accommodate other tooling such as cutters, punches, or drifts between the horizontal members. Just finished it up ...well, actually still need to mount two return springs between base and middle horizontal member. Also need to shape the drawing portion of the dies. No paint yet either, but took some pics and thought I would show this 'midi' version. Felt I should post this to return the favor and maybe help someone else pondering one of these. Hopefully it will do just what I need while I am still in the process of fabricating a power hammer. From the videos I saw of these little presses in action....I feel sure it will do just fine. The various parts/assemblies. Used 2" x 2" x 1/4" wall sq tubing and 1/2" flat plate : The base assembly. (Note little doodads to hold jack in place, the piece to hold handle, and the 2 threaded holes for eyebolts for return springs for middle member.): Base with jack and handle in place: Middle horizontal member (side facing up with threaded holes for lower die): Middle horizontal member (side facing jack. Note threaded holes for eyebolts for 2 return springs.): Top horizontal member (side facing down with threaded holes for upper die): Top horizontal member (side facing up): Uprights with adjustment holes: Die (still being machined)and plates for additional dies (the portion to the right is not yet radiused for drawing out. Will be same height as the flat portion to the left to be able to switch work back and forth . Will have matching upper die.) All together!!

Ken, Having used this a bit now, wonder if you have any thoughts on 'mods'. I thought using 2 uprights on each side would allow for slightly wider area for dies. If you had a heavy (say 1/2" T), wide (4" as opposed to 2") support under the cross bars, that is. In your opinion, would this be overkill for a 20T jack, or maybe the 20 Ton would be inadequate? Thanks for sharing the details of this press. I am hot on the trail of putting something together! Since I am trying to play with pattern laminated forge welding. it should be just the ticket for what I need.

Wow.... This info certainly changes my thinking. I had been planning on simply filling a heavy walled square tube with sand (or maybe wheel weights) for an anvil base. After trying to research PH construction on the net, it seemed this was a fairly common approach to increase either anvil or hammer mass. The tube would be capped by a 3" thick piece of steel and a 1/2" plate to bolt interchangeable dies to. Even then, I don't think I would be anywhere near a 10:1 mass ratio since I was going to have a hammer in the 35-40# range. A 400# anvil base is a chunk! Physics is physics, however. Thanks for pointing this info out. Hmmmmmm..... maybe back to the drawing board! :o

Grant, You have my vote.....it never ceases to amaze me how much fantastic information is out there and readily shared on a mind-numbing number of forums. For maniacs like myself....this is the proverbial candy store. Truth be told, I participate in many ....and widely varied... forums. It's tough being scatterbrained. Too many interests rattling around in there at one time! Hell if I was a kid today, they'd probably have me on meds. Fortunately, I'm old as dirt and back then they thought it was great, stuck me in the library and taught me Greek mythology, calligraphy, astronomy , languages, and other cool stuff. Go figure...... "inquiring minds want to know!" The fellow that was my gun building mentor was fond of saying "Don't see why anyone has to reinvent the wheel" and generously shared his knowledge gained through years of experience (read that trials and ERRORS). Certainly prevented me from having to make the very same errors. So...let me take this opportunity as a newbie to give a serious tip of the hat to the folks here that obviously feel likewise. I thank you for all the knowledge I have gained and will continue to gain in the future. Hopefully I might be able to return the favor in some small way to someone else. ;)

Hey Jeff, Yep, I remember. But still toying with mounting a ball end link such as this only on top of the hammer shaft. It would allow a pivoting movement at that end , while the other end would be solidly fixed under the springs (no pivot). In my feeble engineering mind, this would account quite nicely for the 'fore/aft' movement as the spring end traces its arc. Not seeing the 90 degrees....in my 'design', thrust would be only off hammer shaft axis by a few degrees from vertical as the arc is traced. Nothing in stone yet....and might still end up doing it the 'usual' way. And definitely open to suggestions! :)

Thanks for the wake up! Embarrassingly enough, I farm and should have clicked on this application! Even better....buy a complete top link, cut off one 'ball end' and weld an appropriate length of Schedule 80 black pipe between ball and threaded portion. Instant link with about 8" or more adjustment! Hurts my feelings (and pocketbook) that I just bought RH, LH threaded rod and appropriate nuts to weld up my own adjustable link. DUH!

I have searched the forum for power hammers using Heim type rod ends. Only found a couple of references , both involved tire hammer rather than a "Rusty" type hammer. I am in the process of build such a beast ("Rusty" type) and it just seems a great way to make the connecting links...both on the 'cam pulley side' and on the 'hammer shaft' side. There are 3/4" ends readily available and inexpensive. Anyone have any experience with these? Would they hold up to the pounding? Or should I stick to the 'weld up a clevis and use shaft/bushings' approach. Any thought/experience is appreciated! Thanks :)

Hey Hammbone, I sourced the RH and LH threaded rod and nuts(I used coupling nuts)from MSC. A bit of welding and you can make a turnbuckle with about 12" of adjustment.

Now THAT's impressive fabrication. Very nice set up.I would love to have a bunch of nice steel lying about to cobble up something similar! Bad news is the local scrapyard has ceased selling to individuals! I think I like building tools as much as using them. It seems I'm not the only one Great job....and I thank you for sharing all the pics. Oh....one other question....do the motors turn backward in Oz....or just the drains? Kidding aside, had the good fortune to visit South Australia once.....incredible place. Would love to return! Definitely enjoyed those Barossa vinyards (not to mention the vin! ) :D

Brian: Thanks once again. Actually, that site I had spotted early on in my wanderings. It was indeed quite helpful. I will see if I can manage some pics along the way. Arftist: I was not clear with my rod end concept. I would mount a bar perpendicular to the axis of the springs and offset somewhat from the under face of the spring. The 2 rod ends would be mounted on the upper end of the hammer shaft somewhat like a clevis arrangement with the bar running through them. I thought using the 2 might help stabilize any 'lateral' movement, while the rod ends would allow for the angle changes as the spring moved up and down in an arc. Some of my 'mechanical' concern was whether there was significant 'forward/aft' movement as the spring end moved up and down that required the spring to be able to slide between the two fixed bars. My comment that 'there's a rod end on the pittman arm side of the springs' may not hold water. That end might be able to handle 'forward/aft' movement better since the lower end of pittman is going round and round, not straight up and down like the hammer shaft. I also thought having the concave of the springs down might trace an arc with less fore/aft movement and have better chance of not binding the hammer shaft. Does any of this make sense? My poor old brain is close to melt down.. Might just have to go with the tried and true. Definitely appreciate you folks sharing your thoughts!

Hey Brian, Thanks for the link. Perhaps I misspoke when I used the term helve hammer. (?) I am building a medium sized (about 40-50#) power hammer in the style of Jerry Allen and others. Uses flat springs for the 'helve'. The blueprints are 'similar but different'. However, I did pick up some good ideas for construction and welding techniques, so I do appreciate it!

Hey folks, I'm in the process of building a power hammer (helve type). Been studying those I have spotted on line to develop design that will work for me. A couple of questions... On the linkage between spring and hammer shaft, the ones I have seen seem to allow the spring to slide between two round bars on the end of the shaft. Is this slide method necessary? How much clearance between spring and bars? Why not use 2 rod ends mounted to the hammer shaft, linked to the spring by one bar? This would allow rotation as the hammer shaft moves up and down. Pretty much that is the same type linkage on the other end of the spring. Speaking of spring.....is it a problem to use curved vs straight? I have a set of 69 Camaro springs that I parked the tractor on for days.....still curved.! I have seen a couple examples with curved....just the majority have flat. Safe to assume concave up/concave down should matter little? Any thoughts/advise??? Other than to build a tire hammer....I'm too far into this now! HAHAHAHHA Appreciate the help....

Very helpful drawings. I'll have to explore the FABA link as well. Thanks!

Was very interested in checking this article, but it seems the link does not work for me. Anyone else get it to cooperate?

Thanks Grant, This info is indeed what I needed. I definitely agree.....knowing the 'why' makes the 'what to do' fall into place. Will try to have at it and see if I can make some serviceable tooling. I appreciate everyone's help. Hope I have not worn out my welcome....I feel sure I will have plenty of questions as I stumble my way along.