Chris C

COOL! Those are nice looking tools. Bet that was really a fun class.

Isn't that what they call a Wolf Jaw tong, Frosty?

Dan, I laid the drilling pattern out on my ribbon burner drawing. After reading how much trouble people have had getting the casting material in between the straws, I can't imagine how I'm going to get it between 122 of them..............much less adding even more straws.

Very good idea. May just steel it myself. Make the opening a little larger to accommodate the ability to pivot. Hmmmmm. This is fun!

Indeed............same here. Same thing is prevalent on the firearms forums I frequent. It was really a surprise when Farmall contacted me totally unsolicited and made the offer to send me one of his extras. Good guy, as are all the folks here on the forum. I'm a total newbie, but learning a whole lot every single day and one of the things I'm learning is how great the members are. Thanks, Farmall.

Good idea, Frosty. But I've been blessed with a "Pay it Forward" gift from a member of the forum so there's going to be one on it's way to me soon. Nice bunch of fellows here, to say the least.

Mikey, I'm planning on going with DRotblatt's opinion of "lots of holes" in my burner. My ribbon burner will have 122 1/8" holes. I'll try that first.................and if it doesn't work, well, I'll just cast another ribbon burner. Frosty, since the cavity is so small, would it be of benefit to actually cut into the body of the forge at a 45 degree angle through the upper corner? Or, as you suggested, just angle the burner at a slight angle aimed at the opposite wall? I could use the "slight angle" concept and raise the burner about 2" higher on the the wall. (decisions, decisions, decisions) I haven't cut into the body of the forge yet, so I've still time to change plans.

Good for you....................good trade, I'd say.

Wish I could find a worn out farrier's rasp..........need one for my black smith's bag.

As I've previously mentioned, the forge I'm building will produce a square 5.5"x5.5" cross-section interior. My FARB (3"x9") will be up close to the ceiling on the side wall and pointed directly at the opposite wall. I would think that would produce a swirling effect of some sort................but the chamber is also 17" long. So would it be a good idea to put a fillet in the opposite upper corner to instigate swirling or is the fact the 3" wide burner is on a 5.5" wall going to insure even temps throughout the forge?

Aw, it ain't purdy enough to show yet............maybe next week when it's finished. I just couldn't finish it tonight. I had a "double-ended" colonoscopy today. One pipe down my throat to my stomach and the other one up...................well you get the gist. 2 hours under anesthesia and I just didn't have it in me. (no pun intended) And only about 3 hours of sleep last night. Twernt fun and I didn't get to eat anything solid from Tuesday evening's dinner until 1:00 today. I only managed an hour and a half in that hot building. I could probably have finished it if I'd ground it to shape on the 2x72, but I'm trying to learn how to swing a hammer properly.

Yup, you are correct, Goat Lady. Me, I've quit looking. I'll wait for one to drop into my lap at a fair price. Until then, My Vulcan will do. Just about have my cut-off Hardy tool finished for it. Not bad for my first effort. Guys were laughing at my little 5/8" Hardy shaft tonight...........but it's going to cut, and that's the whole point.

Well I do believe you've got it!

Clean and simple. Nice!!!

You mean I might qualify as a "wise old owl"..............or just old?

Got it. I'll attempt that when I get my forge up and running. I'll try for square ones first. But I do want some V-tongs. My Nephew says he has a 5-gallon bucket full of them, so I'm sure I have a source.

I've watched some guys make tongs (on Youtube) without tongs the way you are describing. Pretty cool to watch. I've so much to learn Frosty. At least I know/admit it.

My Nephew is the supervisor on a surveying team. He says he's collected a 5 gallon bucket of R.R. spikes and I'm welcome to all I want. Might take him up on some to see if I could do that myself.................someday.

So you hold the work with your hands????????????

He-he...............carvers aren't at all interested in presentation cases..............they just want to carve with it. Now when I start making full-sized knives, I'll be doing that.............mainly because I don't want to have to take of leather work as yet another hobby! Argumentative? Yup...............at the end of the disagreement I told him I'd try to find a place for my blood type on the blade. Don't think he found the comment humorous. I just get ticked with people who think their way is the only way and you can't possibly accomplish what you want to do if you do it a different way. Heck, we'd still be flapping our arms trying to fly if someone hadn't said "That's nuts, let's cobble together a flying machine!" Oh well, you get my drift. Nothing in this world is chilled in stone.

Thanks, Frosty, I'll take your word over his. He argued with me for week over the makers mark I wanted to use on my carving knife blades because it didn't have my name, city and state on it. Where in creation would I put all that on a 1 1/2"x .375" blade??? I sent you a pm you've not responded to. I know Alaska is a long way from me................Did it not "get there"?

Thanks. Good to know I'm thinking in the right direction.

Got it...............that was my plan. I could at least shorten it from the back end that way if I needed to.

Ed McCaffrey (a prominent knife maker) has practically been begging me to forget the square forge............forget the brick and just pour a 3" thick layer of Kastolite. Says applying the KOL over the brick is a recipe for total disaster. I'm conflicted! Here's what he said: " Chris..... I personally believe you would be far better served with a round designed forge....especially if you intend to forge weld down the road. You'll have a far easier time learning, and your welding consistency will be far better. OK, that being said, to your question about castable thickness...... A LEAST 3" thick on any/all castable type refractory, otherwise you're just wasting your time and materials. I've gone back, read, and re-read your post...... if I'm reading it correctly, your intent is to line with firebrick and then coat with refractory? If so, please don't go that route..... it will only be a few times firing/using it before it all starts to fall apart, then you'll be stomping and cursing it. PLEASE, if you're looking for usability and durability, rethink your design, and your materials. In the end, you're gona do what you want....I'm just trying to save you some time, effort, money...... and a whole truck load of grief." This forge is 17" long. Are you saying I won't be able to push KOL to the bottom of that with the forge standing on end?

Well, that's good to know because, as I mentioned, I hope to forge weld some day.