Phil K.

The Artist, first page on his site. Gregg Epstein is the creator behind Vintage Metal Designs, where recycled copper takes on a new life as extraordinary furniture and art. Drawing on years of experience in the scrap metal industry, Gregg has developed a unique talent for spotting beauty and potential in discarded industrial metals. He personally hand-picks and salvages each piece, instantly visualizing how it can become a functional statement, from custom tables and chairs to striking wall art. Maybe he doesn't own the scrapyard but he knows a guy.

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I'm sorry but this site is famous for subtlety attacking newbies that come here and ask some stupid questions just try to learn so they can start a new hobby. They run away before even getting their feet wet. I guess that's fine if you want to stay at 6 to 12 people that post on every thread and hold control over everything. I like to try to grow the craft and let the pretenders weed themselves out. Yes, I have contacted him. Apparently, he does have a scrap business and purchases a lot of copper and other metals. He just wants to add some more custom things to his business. No Chemical baths or electrolytic refining needed, he just going for the industrial look on his custom furniture.

Why would he come back? You called him an ignorant fool and a thief. also, now a child. A simple search of his name would have showed you his website with some nice furniture. He simply has no experience with casting.

Hello and Welcome. Yes, it's melting and casting. I blame the smelting confusion on Austin Powers and Goldmember's unfortunate smelting accident. I went to your web site and you make some beautiful things. Have you tried to cast the fish mold yet? I have a mold like that of a ship. I've cast it in Bronze but it's difficult. You may have better luck on a Backyard metal casting site like The Home Foundry These guys here are mostly Blacksmiths and think melting metal is the most dangerous thing a person can try. Personally, I've been doing it CAREFULLY for over 15 years. There is another site called Found Dreaming - Index page. It's mainly a couple guys that do some casting and some old guys that like to talk about their glory days. You could contact me about what you would like to have made. I may be able to do it or hook you up with someone who can. I'm in Ohio, so kind of far.

Depending on the parts, you may have to take shrinkage into consideration. If they are the parts that do the grinding or smashing, they may need some hardening. Maybe a Chrome Alloy Cast Iron.

Probably an artist's interpretation of the Tree of Life.

Here's something that JHCC posted a few years ago that I had saved. It agrees with other info I have found. In 2005, AREMA (the American Railroad Engineering and Maintenance-of-Way Association) changed the standards for carbon content of railroad spikes, to accommodate greater stresses from heavier average loads. According to the old 1968 standard, a regular "soft steel" spike would have a maximum of 0.12% carbon, and a "high carbon" spike would have a maximum of 0.30% carbon. The new standard for ALL spikes is: Carbon: 0.17% - 0.25%. Manganese: 0.90 - 1.35% Silicon: 0.35% Max. Phosphorus: 0.04% Max. Sulfur: 0.05% Max. Copper: 0.20% - 0.50% Vanadium: 0.02% Min.

I call mine a Foundry Furnace. My small one I turn on the side and use it as a forge. In steel mills there are Electric Arc Furnaces, Basic Oxygen Furnaces, and reheat Furnaces.

I was in Chattanooga TN a few years ago and stopped at a large foundry. They did all types of castings and heat treating. In the corner I saw a large pattern for an anvil, about 250 pounds. They told me they would cast me one but wouldn't tell me a price. If I knew how much the price of anvils was going to increase, at least in our area, I would have had them cast me six or eight of them. Also, in Southern Mississippi there is Soule' Steam Works. It's now a museum. I'm not sure but I think they cast some anvils back in the day. Just not a name brand like Hay Budden but still kind of cool.

Yes, get a full face shield and a long sleeved welders jacket. Gloves and leather boots. I used to catch some flack for wearing a hardhat but if you have ever had hot metal on top of your head, it's not pleasant. Plus it holds the face shield very well. Copper is the worst metal to start with. It oxidizes so bad that you can waste a large portion of your melt. Just a little Tin (5 to10%) in the melt and you have a nice Bronze with little loss. I started with Lead and Pewter and worked my way up to Aluminum, Bronze and even some Cast Iron. If you must melt Copper, cover it with natural hard wood charcoal to keep the Oxygen off the melt.

Just use a Carbon Arc gouging rod. They come in several sizes up to 5/8 on an inch, maybe bigger. Work great for electric arc furnace if you have the power to back it up.

Here's an article I found. https://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=6769

A-36 is a lower Carbon Steel .18 to .21 % and would not harden very well. 4140 is very hard and may be difficult to work.

We needed a spot for Frosty to put his "Half a case of Dynamite" story.

Alloy Ave. site is down, has been for several months. Doesn't look like it will be back.

I just picked these up at an auction. I'll probably clean them up and set them on the shelf with some other iron. Might make some waffles with one but I have a belgian waffle iron that's much easier to use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHRIFVubO60 This guy does it and gives step by step instructions. I think he's a little nuts.

Alloy Avenue is broken.

I got some Magnesium Oxide bricks from the same guy, they looked like big chunks of chalk. They worked fine and I'm using them around the shop.

The problem I've had with K23 bricks is that I bought some older bricks that had sat around for a while. They had been in a damp area so I dried them and built a small furnace. When I got up to heat for a bronze pour, they just crumbled. Now I've gone to some good castable refractory with ceramic wool for insulation. I picked the wool up at an old foundry that had closed. I would much rather work with Kaowool.

Lots of other old wrecks that are much more accessible. I was able to get some wrought bolts from an old steam engine after a rebuild. I haven't tried it yet. Going to make a tomahawk with an old file for the edge. I'm a certified diver but haven't done it for years. Also, trained in underwater welding/cutting and salvage. Again that was too many years ago.

Sorry Gadget, I did miss that. I have some pictures of my son trying to help me. I usually had to get on him about his shoes.

All this about Silicosis and unnecessary flash arrestors and nothing about his PPE? He has some good PPE but it still casting with a T-shirt, short pants and canvas shoes. He should have at least blue jeans and leather shoes, along with some type of arm covering.

Wow, missed this thread. I'm reading as fast as I can. Were there any STL's posted? I would like to try some tinkering as well.