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I Forge Iron


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About bertie_bassett

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Lowestoft (Suffolk, England)
  • Interests
    hitting things with hammers, metal work, machining, casting, wood work.

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  1. Been at this one a few days but just finished it up for a friends 21st.
  2. would using the split cross method not work if you simply do not overlap your splits? if you leave leave a solid piece 1/2 your stock thickness then i think it should all match up. alternatively upset the middle of a bar and then draw out the arms. seems a hard way to do this though.
  3. pnut, that's a handy little anvil and the horn looks a lot more cone shaped then mine! for mounting i simply made a 6mm thick washer and lag bolted it down through the holes in the base. seems to be holding up fine although i should have used some lead or caulk to dampen the noise a bit.
  4. Neal - try using a mix of 10p's and 2p's the tens are a cupro nickle and are only a tad smaller than the twos. Gives a nice silver and copper mix althought the brass looks nice too
  5. those faces look to have welded on well David. iv had this week off work mostly been putting up fencing but managed a few jobs on the shop. first up was a table for my bandsaw when in vertical mode. Made it a lot more complicated then it looks and spend a fair bit of time on my mill but should work nicely. the mains part is bolted permanently and lets the saw be used in horizontal mode, the front section slots on when needed. after that i managed a bit of time at the anvil. knocked up a test hook and then couple of hooks for my sisters birthday, i punched
  6. you could always bolt a bit of square tube to the heel area, rather than welding. you should be able to drill and tap the wrought iron body without too much trouble. Its only there to stop the tool moving around, the anvil itself will take the pounding. another option is to drive a bit of sq tube into the base/stand, would need to be at the side rather then the heel to get a straight drive down to the base. or you could just forgo the hardy hole altogether and just make saddle tools. lots of way to skin the cat.
  7. thanks side blast is what i was thinking. wont be for a long time yet though.
  8. many thanks Pnut, im sure those links will help a lot of newcomers get started without the need for going out unnecessarily. i keep thinking of a 55 drum forge myself but could never find the link. Got too many other jobs at the moment though, plus still working full time so it may be a while till i get some shop time.
  9. a little tip for helping with aligning your tap. tap from the inside out, as long as your drilled hole is centered then you simply have to keep the rear of the tap centered with the fitting. only works for parallel threads but should get you close enough.
  10. if you can mount it solidly at the right height im sure it will feel a lot better and help you on your learning curve. another option perhaps for the future might be to flip it 90 degrees clockwise ( as viewed from the first photo) and then build a base to hold and support it solidly. the working face would be smaller but it would have more mass under the hammer and you would also be able to use the round section as a horn for drawing out. for now the big wide surface will help you to position the work and not be dropping things all the time whilst learning.
  11. indeed its an easy mistake to assume that the fittings and manufacturing process will all be true and parallel. a quality fitting should be fine but even known sources can cheap out on parts and cause issues. fortunately it is easy to check most of these things prior to drilling and to accommodate manufacturing 'features'
  12. when you go to make your t burner check over your fittings first, i put one together last weekend before i realised the 'T' had been tapped crooked. looks good from a distance but means the mig tip is misaligned and the jet will hit the side wall. good job i bought two of everything, next time ill chuck the mixing tube in the lathe rather then using the T itself for alignment.
  13. well i havent manged any actual iblacksmithing but instead i have continued my coppersmithing, originally planned as a simple mother's day gift but as i wont be seeing her for at least 12 weeks it thought i would make it a bit bigger and add a few more bits. currently picking in ascorbic acid to clean up any scale, then i might add wildlife. perhap a dragonfly or bee. not sure what to do with the wood, its a bit of drift wood which has also got some wood worm holes. they look to be before the wood went for a swim so i'm not worried about further damage but i would like to stabilize
  14. How does it run?? a pic or two of the flame would be most helpful for everyone her to give an opinion and advice. your forge shape is interesting, usually the flat part is at the bottom to give you a 'floor' to set things on. would be interesting to see how your variation works. from what i can see your burner is similar in principle to a reil burner, depending on what you gas flow is like out of that weed burner tip it may work satisfactorily but the pics will tell us more. most importantly does it run safely? and does it get metal hot enough for you?
  15. iv forged stainless a fair bit over the last year or so, only in small diameters for pendants and similar objects. it is quite tough to hammer on but if you keep it hot it moves ok. it also likes to crack on thin sections, again working hot seems to give less issues. normally ill give it a good scrub whilst hot then soak it in warm citric acid. once you have cleaned it up it can look lovely.
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