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About bertie_bassett

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    Lowestoft (Suffolk, England)
  • Interests
    hitting things with hammers, metal work, machining, casting, wood work.

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  1. + 1 for keeping the crosses nice and hot. my one is stainless so even with keeping it as hot as possible it still has a few cracks in it
  2. i think ill be doing a couple of dragon head pokers and most likely some more stuff in stainless. although i its not an offence here might also go back to some copper or silver smithing.
  3. well i bit the bullet and ordered one up. according to UPS its currently in Brussels and will be here by friday afternoon. iv also got some steel stock to pick up at the weekend so should be able to give it a test sunday.
  4. thanks hojpoj i see your has a few dents in one area but the rest looks clean. is that just the main area you use? or is the hardness just thinner in that area?
  5. well for £120 on ebay i think they are probably worth a go. Although all three sellers are chinese and using the same error filled advert they look to be shipping from the czech republic so i assume that is where the foundry is. quality control may not be the best but if i were making 100's of item i couldn't guarantee they would all be the same, the important thing in my mind is that the item functions as intended. if it turns out to be a bit soft ill likely run a carbide mill over the pritchel area to make it more useful for punching holes and give me a step similar to other anvils. if its too soft to be any use at all then perhaps it can be heat treated at home?
  6. thanks pnut i too think i read that there were some softer ones out there but i cant find out if this is still a problem or not. I may just take the chance, 30kg would be a good weight for a general purpose anvil that needs to be moved out the way after use. its certainly more maneuverable then the 1 cwt brooks i used to have. im trying to keep things as compact as i can but the additional log or a block of steel is worth considering. Thomas - i would of course add a cutting plate to any anvil i get, i have had to sculpt a copper 'cup' to fit on top of the railtrack to try and save the small face when chiseling.
  7. afternoon all does anyone have any recent experience of the 30kg czech anvils with 'acciaio' on them? particularly in the UK? i have seen a couple of posts here showing they are reasonable quality for the money but i cant seem to find anything particularly recent or any reviews from the UK. Amazon has only 2 listed, one has bad reviews and the other is priced at over £400 which is a bit steep for a 30kg anvil of unknown quality. ebay also is rather light on offerings but does have 3 chinese vendors shipping direct from the czech republic. i just dont know if they are of reasonable quality or not. i have a railway 'post' anvil which is working ok for the moment but i miss having a nice flat surface for chiseling and straightening things on. thanks in advance
  8. it was a little crooked in the last pic as i was only giving the damaged nozzle a run for fun. All the others were aligned as perfectly as possible. tbh for the moment i have lost interest in further testing, i only really wanted to get a burner running well enough for the forge. There is little point in me swapping things out and making adjustments if i don't know how to interpret which flame is better. maxing out this burner with a 3d printer nozzle would be nice to show what can be achieved but i'm not the man to do it if it is even possible.
  9. oh well i was hoping that the pics would have shown some improvement but perhaps id be better off just giving up as im clearly on the wrong path thanks for the help anyway
  10. well i had time for a little play but tbh im not sure i am any further forward. tried moving the tip further towards the mixing tube but with a 0.8mm jet, it would either burn in the mixing tube at low pressure or blow out at higher pressures. couldn't find a stable position. so i moved up to a 1mm jet, that initially was very unstable. was about to give up when i noticed the end of the jet was damaged, i must have dropped it at some point and dented the orifice. swapped a new 1mm jet in and it seems to be stable. Pics below show the jet position and the flame achieved. all other settings are the same as i simply slid the jet in and out and took a pic. i then took a file to the damaged jet, seems the 1mm bore isn't very deep and i was soon into the wider opening behind the tip. ended up with something near 2mm which gave an interesting flame. Very lazy with lots of yellow in the end at lower pressures and one huge tongue of blue when cranked as far as i dared inside a wooden workshop. so al in all i have some results but cant interpret them to know good from bad. i also have a suspicion i need to be running these tests longer to prove anything reliably, the flame holder did glow dull red occasionally but
  11. yes you would lose the adjustability so probably isn't worth it for a single burner.
  12. sorry words are not my strong point. by nozzle i mean the orifice/jet. the injector tube is simply the brass tube with the jet on the end. perhaps this sketch will explain better? basically just cast the below in one piece (with air slots), the back end gets drilled through and then just tap M6 for a 3d printer nozzle ( orifice)
  13. quite possibly the shaft has come from a sluice valve or similar item. LH threads give a clockwise shut which is perhaps slightly more common then the anticlockwise shut for water mains. ( all depending on what the local authority prefered)
  14. hmm seems ill have to try harder. I can try moving the nozzle further forward to see what that will do, i wont pretend to understand why that would be better but will follow the voice of experience. Only other thing that is different is the side edges of the air slots which were cut on a tangent, perhaps that is causing more turbulence rather than helping the air in. Have made a quick sketch of what i mean below, wont take long to mill off the offending parts and the tube should still be strong enough.
  15. again im sorry i misunderstood and thought you were testing on a linear burner. i do however wonder if the injector tube couldn't also be cast along with the inlet chamber? would just need drilling out and tapping for the nozzle to fit directly. of course the perfect nozzle position would need to be ascertained but it might be an idea worth considering? just imagining a single piece cast inlet chamber with a removable nozzle for maintenance/upgrading, all you would need is to add a mixing tube and it would be ready to run.