pnut

I'm not very experienced with gas forges but does anyone think his burner is heating up after twenty minutes of use because the flare is flush with the shell and not sitting flush with the refractory layer? Also the flare is a consumable isn't it? Just wondering. Pnut (Mike) I seen the flare on your burner cheechwizard, I thought the second pic was frosty's.

I dig the hinge you used for the burner port. Use what ya got. That's how I live life. There's not a cabinet with a crooked door somewhere in your house is there? ;-) Pnut (Mike) Do you have a flare on the end? If you do is it flush with the inside of the forge?

Has anyone tried tung oil on their anvil?

If I had that anvil I'd hit it with a wire cup put some BLO or wipe it down with floor wax and get to using it. It doesn't seem like the flaw in the horn would get in my way. I'd be happy to have a horn. Pnut (Mike)

The Foxfire books are great. There's more than blacksmithing too. They cover a wide variety of subjects relating to life in Appalachia. Pnut (Mike) JHCC, thanks for reminding me about those books and the Foxfire fund. Haven't thought about them in years.

I was making light of the situation but yeah draw knives are wicked Sharp and should be respected. Growing up the ones I used were always sharp. I used a shaving horse and never seen anyone cut themselves. Proper equipment makes a difference Pnut (Mike)

I can't believe nobody has said it. I guess I have to. IT WEEL CUT!!!!

It'll keep it from drying out too fast and cracking and splitting on the ends. Pnut (Mike)

Oops I forgot to suggest fixing the legs. The belt is leather right? They can be a little fussy sometimes. Humidity,sun, moisture, all can change the tension on the belt. Thanks Das, I completely forgot;-)

Putting your hand cranked blower would be a better long term solution if you aren't trying to keep it in original condition. I think function is the most important thing, but many folks have the idea that they want to keep everything original and old timey. Good luck. Pnut (Mike)

It's amazing how much a fresh log weighs isn't it? I never think they're going to be as heavy as they are. I had to move a bunch of pieces years ago from a very old oak tree and two of us couldn't lift them. Had to use a an engine hoist to load them into the truck. The last time I used a spud we made shingles out of the bark we slipped for my friends roof over his woodpile. We spent all summer making shakes to reshingle the roof on his cabin also but a froe was used for that. Tedious work for sure. Pnut (Mike) Good luck and Glenn's advice to band it after finishing will keep it from splitting from use. Good idea.

A bark spud looks kinda like a big wide chisel. You get it under the bark and work your way down the log or around the log. I've seen it done both ways. If the log is still wet it should come off fairly easy. Maybe in one piece. If you seal the ends it'll keep the log from wanting to split from drying too quickly. Pnut (Mike) Oh yeah you need to score the bark along the length before you pry the bark off. If you search bark spud on your search engine of choice you'll see pictures. They sell em at tractor supply company

I'm not sure if you could slip the bark with a spud but it might be worth a try. I've only done it to fresh cut logs but it might work. Pnut (Mike)

How are you keeping the noise down with such long exposures. I don't have any experience with this type of photography past the usual star trail shots but it seems like the sensor would generate enough heat to cause digital noise. Just curious. Pnut (Mike)

Charles, that is the one I actually wanted but they don't stock them in store. Since I use a public Wi-Fi connection I don't shop online. I also have the 120v ac pump but I moved my forge over the hill to the woods and don't want 200 ft. of extension cord trailing away from It. It's annoying high pitch whine had to go. Much quieter using the hand pump. I'll switch back if I can get some coal but until then the hand pump is doing the trick. Pnut (Mike) I guess I could have gotten the 12v pump but then would have to get a battery.

Here's what I use for my jabod. I think I paid about eight bucks for it at Walmart Pnut (Mike) I almost forgot to mention I use charcoal. This pump wouldn't work for anthracite and I don't think it would work very well for bituminous.

Thank you. You never can tell when a knothead 12 yr. old might not realize you were joking. Welcome to IFI you have come to the right place this forum is chock full of info on anything blacksmithing you could want to know. Good luck with your smithing and post some pics when you're up and running. Pnut (Mike)

Make sure you PM your address to him so he can forward his fine to you.

My landlord was using it for a doorstop. I gave her a brick to replace it. Thought I could use it for cutting and straightening on . Even has a rod to sink in a stump. 1 3/4x5x6 in.plate

Sug, welcome to IFI . If you can't find a piece of heavy steel for an improvised anvil a sledgehammer head would be better than a quarter inch plate. If you can find a four inch round that's a foot long or a forklift tine it's going to be much better. Look through the improvised anvil post in the anvils and swageblock section. An anvil only need be a bit wider than your hammer. The more mass under your hammer the better. A three inch plate ten inches long would work better stood on edge because there's more mass under the hammer. Make sense? Good luck and happy hunting at the scrapyard. Pnut (Mike)

In the forging the iron bloom video The strikers must be wearing safety flip flops. Pnut (Mike)

I may be wrong but the way I picture hot steel (around welding temp) is like a sponge absorbing free elements and compounds easily. I admit I don't have experience but that is how I picture it in my mind. It helps me wrap my head around it a little easier. Thinking about it this way it makes perfect sense that mild steel would absorb carbon in the carbon rich zone of the fire. I think I'm beginning to understand the most basic things about steel finally;-) Pnut (Mike) jlpservices, sorry for my ignorance about this but thinking about it a little further I realized I am not familiar with the area of the fire your talking about. I am familiar with the oxidizing, neutral, and reducing zone. Is the carbeurizing zone the same as one of these. If so which one. Thanks for the info in advance. Pnut (Mike) I think I figured out that the reducing and carburizing zones are one and the same. If that's not right please let me know.

Asterisck, Blasted tiny phone! I had to look for a second before I saw the opener on the end of the spatula. Nice work. Pnut (Mike) I almost forgot, welcome to IFI this is a great resource for anyone interested in blacksmithing. Nearly anything you want to know about blacksmithing is here. Good luck.

Best advice so far. Pnut (Mike)

A five gallon bucket of water is handy if a piece of slag or other hot metal finds its way inside your boots. I wear cuffs in my jeans. I learned the hard way to unroll my pants legs when forging. Pnut (Mike)