SoCal Dave

Saw this on "Pinterest" this morning and thought it very clever.

It is difficult for some to think about what could go wrong, when they don't really know what they are doing. It's difficult to know what you don't know. That is why people repeat others mistakes. I don't mean to sound harsh, but at times, people either think they know, or don't want to look into a project any further, and don't understand fully the complications surrounding a process. I have been guilty of this also, but I'm learning to more cautious.

Very clever idea and it looks great. Bravo. I think you've started something. Personalized hammers.

It is made of mild steel with lots of scale still left to remove. Most likely it will be sand blasted. It is much much stronger than a wood bench and will probably be used outside. Thanks for the compliments. More mig welding tomorrow in those hard to reach areas of the legs and of course some finish grinding.

I made this bench that the wife saw in wood. I changed it around a little and made it in metal. If it's worth making, it's worth making out of metal. I tig welded the end caps of the top 2"X 3" tubing and the spacers between them. I tig and mig welded the legs to the bench and bottom plate. The legs are 1-1/2" X 3". The angle cutting of the legs was a real pain. A cold saw would have been wonderful. I used my chop saw with a composite blade which bends a little as you cut. So, lots of grinding to get everything to fit. I plan on powder coating it and will post pictures when it is done and in place. I didn't think this project was right for the "member projects" section as that is for blacksmithing and there wasn't any of that in this project, just cutting grinding and welding. I do think the legs make for an interesting look.

My experience so far has been that hardfacing the tines with the Stoody 35 has worked well in preventing material loss of the tines, if a maintenance program is adhered to. In theory, if I keep touching up the worn hardfacing areas, the tines and comb could last forever. But, that is impossible, since I'm not the tractor guy dragging the arenas, and inspecting the rake after use. There doesn't appear to me any way to create a pocket on the bottom of the tines or comb.

I could have use an auto-darkening helmet yesterday. I'm building an outdoor bench with the legs at different angles. When I was tack welding the legs to the bench, I used magnets, one hand on the leg holding it in place and the other on the wire feed gun. I had to grab the gun and lower/flip down my old style helmet which of course moved the leg just enough to start all over. Or, when I flipped the helmet down something moved. I got it done after about 5 attempts. But it would have saved me time and a lot of frustration.

I 've always thought the advantage to auto-darkening helmets is they work well in tight quarters where the flip helmets don't work well. So, they have a place, but technology, (auto -darkening helmets) has it's issues.

When I looked up on the Miller Elite website, they indicate that the Elite series has the X-mode: X-Mode – Can be used in Shades #8-13 Electromagnetic Arc Sensing eliminates: Sunlight interference - Outdoors, Low-Amperage Lens Opening - TIG, Lens Openings - Pipe/Curves, Obstructed Sensors - Hidden/Cavity Weld Based on the above, the sensors should have reacted even in the sunlight, unless they didn't work?

Ivan: I think an email to Miller would be in order, and proper. They might know about working outdoors with the Elite series helmet. You would think that working outdoors in sunlight would effect most auto-darkening helmets and other helmet wearers would of complained also? Miller Elite has 4 sensors compared to two or three in others so I think it is sensitive enough. There must be something that the sunlight does to effect the sensors? I wonder if there is a warning somewhere in the instructions about welding outdoors with their Elite helmets?

Well the project is done. Here are some pictures of the finished table. I had never seen the Eland skull before I presented the table to my friend. I went on the description from my friend and what he wanted. After a lot of back and forth with him on the design, we settled on the configuration. My friend was really happy with it especially since it was commission way before he got married and then became a "wedding gift". Easy come, easy go. The copper was added at the end and wasn't part of the original design, but after the table was built, I kept looking at it and thought it needed something else.

Beautiful work. Questions: Who did the design and how was it transferred to the metal? It must weigh a ton so I would like to see the wood frame to hold it. Great work.

I am not sure how far Temecula is from Vista, Calif, but they have lots of classes in Blacksmithing at the Gas and Steam Engine Museum. That might be the closest Blacksmith school near you. Good luck.

Wisdom: I would suggest taking a tig welding course at your local welding school. You will learn how many adjustments tig machines have today for many many situations and metals. You will be pleasantly surprised especially for welding bikes. In the process, you will learn the factors in controlling your heat and how to adjust your machine. Good luck.

Below the horn, near the base of the anvil, there may be some numbers. Also, on one of the sides there it may be stamped with the name Hay Budden and it may have more than just the name. The weight of the anvil may be stamped there also. Pictures of these sites may help others ID your anvil. The price will really depend on the condition and weight of the anvil. Good luck.

I don't understand the flat horn shape. Farrier anvils have that design, but not that pronounced. I wonder if it's general purpose was for farrier work?

You've got to remember the time when these anvils were made. I don't think standard or universal meant much to them. .975 was close enough for Government work as the saying goes.

To begin in blacksmithing, I had lots of sucker rod available and made lots of punches, and chisels. It doesn't hold up for very long and to hard use, but I had punches and chisels to use and could make more if needed. So, if it is available to you, go ahead and enjoy making tools to use. Later on in your blacksmith travels you might try other longer lasting steels. Good luck.

I would think that the bolts might make better chisels or punches than hardy tools. The pipes may make hardy tools for shaping/bending depending on their size. Good luck.

The picture to me looks like you used bronze? It is a great looking sign bracket and it looks dangerous. Lots of pointing things. Good job.

In the land of the cowboy, you can find anything that comes from a cow, even rawhide Mr. Favor, (old tv show)

A couple of pictures might help in figuring out what the issue/s are, if possible.

When cooking most anything, low and slow.

If you could clean up the sides and around the base of your anvil, you should find a name and maybe some numbers. They would help in the identification of your anvil. Take some more pictures and I'm sure some of the blacksmiths that visit this site will be able to help you. Good luck.

I recently made a small table with lots of twists. I did heat my legs in a three burner gas forge for a really really really long time to get an even heat. We twisted 10" at a time and heated one leg at a time in the forge. I learned to heat it until I thought I had a really good even heat throughout, and then gave it another 10 mins to soak up more. So, I would think that the issue has to be with the coke forge as others have suggested. Good luck.