Mills

I too only use a gloves under certain conditions. But there are times. Once I was forging 1 1/2" sq 16" long in a twelve burner forge 6-8 at a time on a 100# LG drawing them to 30". they were hot and heavy and I used a very nice insulated welders glove that worked like a charm. I needed one for my face also but alas. I have quit wearing a watch as well. The heat would be absorbed by the band and and cause my skin to swell and then chafe it severely. So know I don't know if its time to get up or go to bed. ;)

While it is true you have banged some metal, a drift you have not made. Punches, yes. A drift is a piece that tapers on both ends and the middle is a specific size to true up a hole. It is meant to be driven from one side all the way through and drop out the other side.

Way to go solvarr, it is gratifying to find one who is really interested. There are some boy scouts around here who starting to take notice.

Pretty fair work, Andy. I read the thread, you did well. On the guard that you welded on, many knife makers silver solder them in place. They can be forged and shrunk to fit like seating a (wagon) tire on a rim. I don't believe that I would go to the extra work of upsetting for a bolster and swaging to shape. A lot of trouble and not done easily. Your choice is what I would do/have done but not nearly so nicely. Also you mentioned getting real tool steel, you had a good choice. It could be improved on if you are out to make the end all be all of chisels. But not by much I think. For somebody who decided to make a chisel out of what they had I think 10/10 is in order. Good work.

Those anvils do work well, I am pulling for you to get the bugs worked out.

Ya'll might give some consideration to methods that have been honed over the centuries. Such as a retort. Stoke, light, cover, do other stuff while you wait.

That is quite an accomplishment, congratulations.

You are doing fine, I'd say. Since you seem to have welding capabilities I would stiffen the anvil by welding in some support along the web. Some 1/2" thick by 1 1/2" would help a lot. For a hardy hole could you weld up some heavy pieces on the sides or end? Since you enjoy big stuff how about making a punch and putting the size you wnat through a piece of 1" or more then mount on a vice or stump or weld into the end of a piece of track and stand it up. Standing the track up and using the end is a pretty good Idea anyway. puts more metal beneath your hammer where it counts the most.

I have about a 3' piece of 1050 in 5/8 sq, if that is of any use to you.

Sounds as if you achieved the right heat, but yeah get rid of the rebar. It is handy for somethings but this ain't it. If you can find some get 1018 not hot roll which can be uneven as well. Then try it again. I have always used hot roll but sometimes my welds don't take, I can pretty much tell now when it is me and when it is material.

All right Chuck!

That is good info Irn. Thanks.

I have done the very same thing, with the same results. Now if using rebar I always let it normalize as Obi Wan Powers has said. no more trouble. yet. I quit using rebar as much since it is so varied I can't get repeatable bends in it. So with some exceptions, I do as JWB said and just buy hot roll. I do have about half a bundle of 3/8 rebar at my disposal so I still incorporate when I can.

I used a forney stick welder this spring that my friend who is in his 60's started on when he was 13. It was there 'Portable welder' that rode in the back of the truck. The electric company had placed receptacles every so often on the poles and his job was to get over there, hook up, fix what broke, then get back to work, break is over. Work ethic instilled at such a tender age. For both Forney and him. To echo TDean my MIG is a 29 year old Miller 35 that is now welding as good as ever, after being underutilized for a long time. I've had to track down various broken circuts and learn to never use old wire, or cheap insulators. There are a buncha good welders out there. I'd buy either blue or red myself.

LOL Dale, Thats true here in the SW part of the US as well. Still 8 hrs driving in a day doesn't leave a lot of hammer time. So its an overniter Appman, go get ready. :)

Since you are just looking for a welder then peruse Craigslist, There are some real bargains to be had, this one is likely gone but for example: Welder-Promig 175, with Bottles and cart. Around the OKC area I see the Tombstones priced too high and off brand MIGs as Frosty pointed out become doorstops when parts are needed. For lihgt work a MIG will serve you well

Trig doesn't per se, It actually is generated in the cranium as the wheels are grinding and screeching and everything is heating up. Then it will come creeping out of your ears.

Congratulations, A fine start for a striker team.

3 inches of blanket won't let the shell get hot enough to burn the zinc. Around the openings it will though. I think that I would fire it outside and let it go til it quit smoking, then sand back a bit more where it did burn off and go with that.

Yep it will.

It does have a circuit breaker on the outside, but now there is a bunch of smoke out there as well. I don't think there is anything internal. I am going to pull it today to look for brown spots. Who knows what I might find. I did get a number for a fellow here in town who is capable and works out of his garage. He has done a lot of motors for my friend.

Apparently it was, rthibeau, 2 of us working off of it. Me welding and Asa running grinders and sawzall. :0 first time I tried that. Those are some good alternates folks, thanks, and keep them cards and letters coming. ;)

I let the smoke out of my little generator and now find myself in a fix. How does one go about getting this dude repaired? Troy-Bilt kept referring me to the same 'service centers' as on their web site. every last one fixes the gas motor, NOT the generator. It being Saturday, there aren't any electric shops open around here so I'll wait til Monday and explore that option. What other avenues might I explore?

I tke it the tin is on the OSB. I think a sawzall with coarse metal blades may be the ticket. a sabersaw would be my next choice as irnsrgn said.

I believe that he may not be married since he is looking at drivers ed. A bit on the youngish side, perhaps. Work in progress: Welcome to the reality that each of us faces. right now I have more cool tools than ever. And I NEED a few more. Because as I gain experience and skill another job comes up and I am having to reconfigure what I have and sometimes buy a new tool to be more efficient. This is the journey you should savour. You like many of us are focused on what yu want to achieve, the destination. I can hear "are we there yet" in the background of your posts. don't ask me how I know this. You have a pretty full load, but you are able to do some more. OK then what one thing can you accomplish right now that will get you closer to where you want to be? Take care of that little task (really, keep it small) then another and another. There will be a time when you can go do something big and you will be prepared to do so for the little stuff is done. May not work for you, but I believe most here in this community are satisfied in a like fashion. So you have an anvil, how about getting a forge? What have you come up with so far? you will need an air supply and something that won't burn up very quickly. Inquiring minds want to know.