Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

This by way of Hetty Lang of NCIS fame. "Never mistake motionless for inactivity".

Welcome to IFI... We won't remember this once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show it, so members don't have to ask you or scroll up to find it. From the pictures I've seen so far you definitely have some items that most blacksmith's will be interested in. There are some members here in the DFW area, if I were closer I'd probably help ya dig stuff out. From the picture with both anvils the blower looks like a Champion 400 and we are always looking for them, even if it's only for spare parts to rebuild one.

I like this fire pot, have used it and it's easy to build. Bob Patrick Firepot

When I enlarged the picture, it almost looks like they were punched from the back by a shaped chisel over a bottom tool (hardy) to forge the bullet shape. You would really need to have it in hand to see how it was made.

If you don't have a belt grinder, a 4 1/2 or 3 inch angle grinder will do it. Just have to go slow and be very careful of the rotation of the wheel so it doesn't grab the edge of the blade ( which is firmly held in a vise).

There is an old saying "If you believe you can or if you believe you can't---you are always right!" ThomasPowers

Here is a minion critter my wife made a while back, can't remember if I posted it or not. he keeps an eye on us in the forge.

For a first pair of tongs, you have done an outstanding job and should be proud of them.

I would go with a hand vise also. Seen one like that used in Gunsmiths shops.

We won't remember your location once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to put it in your profile. As far as the weight the numbers are the CWT of 466 pounds when it was made. Are you sure the first number is a 4? As far as value it depends a lot on if the anvil passes the "ring & rebound " test. I hope you have read about not doing any grinding, milling or welding on the hardened steel face. The slight sway and edge damage will not hinder the performance of that fine old lady in the least. Trying to "fix" it causes more damage than just using it. BTW typing in bold founts is frowned upon.

E6013 electrodes are easy to weld with all position, the only draw back is the metal needs to be clean (no rust) and they don't penetrate very deep so good on thin material.

My wife says, I think I know it all and she is right. Just can't remember it when needed.

I've heard it called a Sow Block or Anvil Block.

Knowing where in the world you are located may help with answers. A full picture of both sides might also help. I can't tell from the close ups if it's a bench vise or post (leg) vise. I was able to get rid of most of my old vices.

I got it and it is funny IMO.

Those tong blanks look very consistent too, good job.

The first time you backed into one, you would realize why so many anvils have had the pointed horn blunted.

I did a google search like this "papa rhino iforgeiron.com" (without the quotes) and there a few threads about them going back to 2009, unfortunately the pictures on the older threads are lost but still interesting reading.

It's identical to mine, I bet you will love it and the manual is available as a pdf through Lincoln Electric.

I agree with Frosty & Thomas. For an anvil that size (weight) I also don't think it is a crack.

I would go with the Holland, it's large enough to do whatever the average shop needs to do.

I agree with Thomas, the time I tried to build a forge from a large truck brake drum, it turned out to be worthless. Another forge to consider is the 55 forge, bottom and side blast. Both the JABOD and the 55 forge are easy to build and will work. Also reading through the pinned threads will get you off & running.,

Well that depends. First condition, pictures of it will help, Second where in the world you are located, I know your logon is Ohioboy but that doesn't necessarily mean where you are. Third if you want to sell it, you should list it in the Tailgating section (after you read the rules about posting there). A lot of that is spelled out in the Read This First Thread.

When you get the Tombstone welder, if it's been a shop like a body shop, you may have to take the back off and blow out all that dust. Mine is about 50 years old and the dust collection was something to behold. The only problem I have had with mine is the on/off toggle switch started sticking (sometimes in off and other times on). I laid the welder on its back and sprayed WD40 in the switch and it works like new. Those old welders are hard to kill.