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I Forge Iron

Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

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Everything posted by Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

  1. You could also eliminate the washer, I would think, never saw a washer there.
  2. A 6X6 concreted in the ground will be more than enough stand as long as it allows the base of the anvil to be lag bolted solid.
  3. It's a very good looking anvil and like Thomas, I'm leaning to the Peter Wright maker. If you put a picture of the side with the horn facing right there may be enough of the name & weight to confirm that. After you wire wheel it check the ring & rebound. That will tell you if it has ever been in a fire and lost the hardness to the face. Also I suggest not doing any grinding, milling or welding on the face which will do more harm than good.
  4. Good looking knives and you are ahead of the curve because forging the blade is just the first step. There is a lot of grinding before it's finished. There is a saying (paraphrased) For a good blade you will win, forge thick and grind thin.
  5. When buying new oil or scrounging from friends & neighbors who use turkey fryers, I like peanut oil. It smells better than canola and has a higher flash point.
  6. If you google coal Fort Smith AR there are 7 suppliers listed there. I haven't contacted any of them because for now I'm set for a while. Farrell Cooper Mining Co. looks promising.
  7. You're welcome BTW you might want to edit that post and remove the quote. You have about 30 min. to edit. The reason being quoting the post just prior to your reply uses a lot of bandwidth as outlined here. The quote feature
  8. This is how I did ours. Very secure and quiet with calking under it and wedges to hold it steady.
  9. We're lucky the only thing we get to step on in the middle of the night are Axles squeaky toys. Enough to give one a heart attack though.
  10. Be Safe, Stay Calm, Think ... advice from my late Chief. If you stop to throw stones at every dog that barks, you will never reach your destination... quote from Winston Churchill
  11. When I read that it gave me heart palpitations. I hope you meant wire wheeling it. The marks in the top picture are from a long ago blacksmith testing punches and chisels he/she made for sharpness.
  12. The power hammer marks under the heel would indicate it's an Arm & Hammer, also made by Columbus Forge & Iron. Both Trenton and Arm & Hammer are top drawer anvils.
  13. The 1.1.17 is the weight in CWT (stone wt) 157 pounds when made. Pictures of the anvil will help a lot. I'm taking a guess here it's a M&H Armitage Mouse Hole anvil. There are quite a few threads about them.
  14. Definitely a Fisher made in '42 and the face is in very good shape for it's age. I hope you have read about not doing any grinding, milling or welding on the hardened steel face. The beauty of Fishers is they are quiet anvils and have excellent rebound. The most it needs is a wire wheel on a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder to clean it up and some BLO (boiled linseed oil) applied to keep it from rusting. Hammering hot steel will shine the face right up.
  15. Depends, pictures will help the burner folks figure it out for you. Did you use propane pipe dope on it?
  16. I don't know about the Alco diesel engines but a lot of the valves have gas filled stems and I would be leery about welding or forging them without checking that out.
  17. Looks like a very good 162 pound Peter Wright to me, especially if it passed the ring & rebound test and a bargain to boot.
  18. The ATF I use is the old Dexron and it mixes well. I found it to be comparable to Kano Kroil but a lot less expensive. I put it in a pump oil can, shake it a little and liberally squirt it on a couple of times a day for a couple of days before trying to bump the gear.
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