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I Forge Iron

Jasent

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Everything posted by Jasent

  1. I did my whole forge in an hour. I’ve done a ton of concrete work so I do have experience playing with similar stuff. I did mine in 1/3’s and it worked well for me. Started with the floor as that was the thickest part. One reason is I only just enough water to shape it as needed. More like mortar for stone work than concrete
  2. If your doing the hofi method of hammering your fingers are not on the bottom of the handle but on the sides so finger smash is of no concern
  3. I assume it was key stock as it’s precision ground with sharp corners. 2”x2” and sparks like 1050 though oil quench gave grain structure like glass. Recycled stock So not 100%.
  4. I did my whole forge in one step. It’s held up well. Few chips around the doors but it’s doing well
  5. The bottle opener finish is burnt BLO it is recycled steel and could have had the crack but I didn’t see it I’ll clean up the rest of the stock and look it over i May have just hit it too cold. Had just sheared the plug and hit the face to release my punch. Then noticed the crack pulling out the forge to start drifting
  6. Well it was going great until this happened. Hoping I can grind it out
  7. Personally I would remove it just so I could check the condition of the insulation as well. You won’t have to worry about weather it will spall off the old kol and you’ll have the choice of replacing the first layer of insulation if it needs it and not loose any volume in the forge. Jmo as I haven’t needed to do this just yet.
  8. With the right chisel it’s not bad at all. Especially with mild steel. Mine is a bit harder than mild steel but not much. Took maybe an hour total with drilling
  9. That’s true it dosent need to be square. But it’s easier to forge square than oval. So you either save time making the hole by not going square, or you save time later by not having to forge oval tools. Good point. My first hardy was not square
  10. Thank you. Was so simple. Not sure why I haven’t done more
  11. It sparks exactly like my 1050. Tested every known steel I have with it. Snap test showed grain structure like glass hammers for sure
  12. With mine I drilled 1” hole about 3” deep. Then chiseled it square and drilled a 1/2” hole in from the side
  13. Oh I hate handle work too! Maybe after I’ve done a hundred or so I might not hate it so much but I really fight it
  14. @jlpservicesinc it worked great! I’m no forge welding master and I was nervous I could even pull it off. Hardest part was getting the twist nice and Symmetrical. Highly recommended
  15. Nice job on the boot knife, dagger, which ever you call it. I’ve never been much of a knife guy but I do like boot knives. I don’t like carrying a knife on my hip and often keep my work knife on my boot. Look forward to seeing it finished
  16. You could just have them un-chromed, any place that does chrome can remove it safely
  17. I agree with pnut. Plus if you miss a hammer blow you won’t chip the face. If it gets too beat up either grind the dings out or flip it over
  18. I save broken shovel handles from work and make handles from those. I use a good wood rasp and sand with angle grinder and flap disk to finish. Works great for me
  19. I’m running 140 Rhoad Island reds now. Just about a year old. Also got some black sex links and bared rocks and blonde sex links from the year before. About 170 chickens total. We get about 10-12 dozen eggs a day. All non gmo organic feed. They sell fast thankfully just about got my order done as I ran out of propane. Tomorrow is another day
  20. I was wrong on the name. Sticker came off long ago. It’s a truper engineer hammer. They do have a web site
  21. The tru tempers I bought at north 40 outfitters. Same place I get my flat spring wire brushes. They have a bunch of farrier supplies.
  22. I can’t speak for those hammers and besides the ones I’ve maid for my self I really like my tru temper’s. Especially the 4lb and 3 1/2lb cross peen. The 4pound I made into a round face flat face. It is still my favorite
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