Jasent

That looks great cgl

Jhcc gave me the idea of this termination. I’ve also been thinking about a horseshoe type end. Just got an order for 3 of these. Then I’ll play with a different termination. Also thought about making them from horseshoe and leave the middle as is so you can tell it was a horseshoe

Got my 2 1/4 lb rounding hammer handled and dressed, made the bottle openers with it, couple hold downs for the striking anvil and welded up a quick tool tray. Can be mounted on all 4 corners and I may add some pipe to the legs so I can mount it down and out of the way

Thank you jlp. If I hadn’t sheared the ear off I would have been very happy with it

Welcome to the site

I’m liking it too! Thank you

Doing some learning today. Sheared off an ear and then a nostril before I decided to slow down. They are getting better Now to get to work on a tool tray for my striking anvil

Doing some learning today. Sheared off an ear and then a nostril before I decided to slow down. They are getting better

Congrats pnut! 7 years is quite the accomplishment! I’ve lost many good friends to addiction.

Cristobalite is what I was trying to spell

Jhcc I love that bottle opener! I may have to play with that idea I most likely have the spelling wrong. I believe it is slightly different than asbestos but with the same out come. The wool is not so dangerous until it’s heated to 1600f from my understanding. That’s why only gloves and a dust mask are required when working with the wool. And why it can be sold and shipped with out hazmat.

You will need refectory coating. It’s not hard to do or expensive. I recommend Kast-O-Lite 30 li. Soon as the wool reaches 1600f it changes to crystalbolite and releases a ton of tiny fibers that will cause major lung issues. You can’t see them, and they will coat everything, you, your clothes, everything around the forge, then those fibers get taken in the house for every one else to breathe. Not to mention the wool gets torn up easily and gets degraded by the flame. About $30 will make it safe and last much longer. Especially if you do any forge welds. Molten flux will eat wool up like cotton candy in the rain

Rigidized is not enough. Needs a coat of refactory should look like concrete instead of cotton candy maybe my eyes are tricking me but it doesn’t look like is got refactory

I like that TP

With any of the tool steels or spring steels I’ve learned as soon as orange starts to fade to red I stop! And back in the forge. Too many times I’ve gone and hit it at dark red and end up with a crack at heat treat. This self imposed rule has greatly improved my results

Took about an hour to forge including warming up the forge. After working the s7 it seemed like forging mild.

Did my first stainless knife. Forged from 5/8” round. Unknown SS that will harden. Forged to final shape except for filing the edge. I have no tools for polishing so I tried draw filing it. Think I need more practice as it was tough keeping the file clean. Tried oil tried chalk ended up using chalk and just cleaning file ever few pulls. May just need to sharpen the files. Was fun project. Scales are from broken broom handle. Pins are aluminum.

If your happy with your job you are rich

Jungle that 10lber look like my warwood 8lb. One of my favorite hammers

I take that as a compliment

I made mine by filing the main shape then used an ingravers chisel to put the J in the center

I have a semi vertical spike I could straighten up, it also would be simple to just weld on the square chunk. I do have a bunch. I may add the leg as it does bounce a bit. Thank you for the kind words

New and improved

TP that might be easier on the hands / grip.