tanglediver

I would ping test that whole top to get an idea of the extent of damage. I am thinking of using a propane weed burner for my preheat, or a maybe a bbq pot burner (which I have). I don't have a weed burner, but will prolly get one tomorrow. That will handle the job better I think. Saturday looks promising, everything is starting off at 100* plus already!

So, the count not only killed Domingo for the sword, he also stole the anvil used to create it in the first place, leaving a six-fingered right hand print in the process. AHhhhh!!

A piece of steel that is 3"x 6"x 3/4" may seem heavy, but when it comes to moving hot metal, too much mass below your hammer is just right. A big sledge hammer clamped down tight makes a good improvised anvil. Edit:- but as for mounting a piece of plate like that, I'ld hollow out a log for it to nest in. But I am sure you will come to find that there are much better options out there.

What kind of dirty hand print withstands centuries of weathering?

I toss leaf springs quite often. I put a bit aside recently just for the halibut. But about anvils & forging, honestly, I've broken many a cheap bench vise by cold forging, not knowing that was what I was doing!

Maybe if you plant it in the garden for a decade or two, it will grow baby anvils.... .... Oh, they tried that? Nevermind!

That's it, I'm branding my rail anvil! It shall be ......

FACT:- Only ACME brand will do, (when it comes to roadrunner hunting). There are lots of Mousehole look-a-likes in the book. They must have been ALL THAT to emulate back in the day.

A ball bearing dropped from ~ 10" should not mar the anvil face, in which case, your anvil might be made of cheese.

Unless you're under sail on a starboard tack, with an inbound freighter to your leeward stern, it's red right when returning. Oh bouy, that ought to get it.

First, I'ld have to find a junkyard (scrapyard).

My 99 # mouse has a bit of a smiley curve to its face, and a mushroom tipped horn, none of it my doing. It's great, I'm glad I never touched it with a grinder. That took a bit of restraint, just a drop. Now for a stand and a forge. But I plan to practice with my other anvils before using the mouse.

I tried a needle bearing, but got a negative percentage. (So, then i googled it.)

It looks stuck now. Got any hot iron? Nice mount.

In my professional opinion, it has been arc welded. But if it rebounds, no harm, no foul. Nice upgrade from a rail!

I was thinking of a wheel barrow shell to nest in for cooling, but I don't have that much ash just now, though the price of ash is right! Interpass temperatures are not discussed in the article, but with multiple passes, I just take my time in between and watch the temps. The heat treat approach makes a lot of sense, but a proper quench is more and more challenging by the pound.

It is definitely steel, and yes, this one is exactly 110 pounds. I will preheat to 400* (as suggested) and plan to slow cool in vermiculite (which i need to find first). Even it was cast Iron, we've welded cast iron before with lots of preheat (like 800*), but I'll save that fight for another project, like grandpa's broken wood stove. I've been considering this project for years. It's time to kick this party in the ribs!

So, back in the 90's I worked in construction, and I made lots of leather repairs with rivets. So when I ran across a steel anvil at Harbor Freight, I bought it for setting rivets, and because anvils are cool! These days, I know that it lacks good rebound, being about 55%. Well, I finally read through the actual Gunther method article, http://www.anvilmag.com/smith/anvilres.htm , and I thought to myself, "I can DO that." So I have decided that I really want to layer some Stoody hardfacing rod across this anvil' face, and see what happens. I welcome any opinions of those who have made repairs in the past. ( Frosty, Iron Wolf) If there is a better rod than Stoody 2110 and 1105, I am all ears! The rods are easily more expensive than the anvil, which I paid about $80.00 for new.

Quite a difference, eh!?! I believe it will clean up just fine.

With proper heat control, and good consumables, arc welding is certainly doable.

Nice router jig! That will make a fine surface for the old girl.

After I spent a U.S. Ton of time and effort into cutting and making a rail anvil shaped object, I put the remaining piece of stock to work as is. No preparation needed, just pound metal on it, works great for all my small jobs, very satisfying too. In fact, the tool I pound on most is my cheap, imported bench vise. It has a great polish job on it!

Bottom to top; Russian Toad 110#, Mousehole 98#, JHM Basic 70#, Equipment Rail 14#, smaller equipment rail, India paper weight.

Ha, ha, ha! I like Lou's idea. Maybe I can start a "used anvil disposal service". It's too bad that people automatically consider an anvil as inferior due to face irregularities.

Having been informed of my desire to become President, it would sound a bit like Brisbane. "And all you turned out to be was a punk blacksmith?! OHHHHHHH!!!!! Ha, ha, ha, ha, ha!" (I am, however, not a blacksmith.)