tanglediver

Associate of Science degree, a.k.a. 2 year degree. We welded lots of different metals for familiarization, never wrought iron.

It's not cast iron, and it's not mild steel. It's wrought iron. I've never welded wrought iron, even after completing my A.S. in welding. I have some 100 year old fence picket ends I could practice on sometime though. It's all about choosing THE best rod type. Personally I would not put any wire fed process to work on that repair. There is no production schedule to keep. You got all the time in the world to get it right, good luck!

Heck, that's a nice anvil. I am sure the patio had no chance of escape with that sitting on top of it.

I concur on the stick process, 7018 is a good bet. Prep should include grinding out the crack as much as possible, preheat and possibly postheat as well, keeping mindful of the face temps. The waist needs to be heated evenly though. What I see there is boogered stick weld that was hiding existing cracks. Once a crack starts, ... nothing will stop it.

Congratulations, that's a nice one! The shape appears to be what Mr. Postman calls an "Old English" type. Colonial patterns were even less refined, typically without a table, and predate both Old English and Modern patterns. Mousehole is clearly stamped there. So, which period did it come from? The progression of Mousehole maker marks was:- Mousehole ~ circa 1780-1795 C & A Mousehole ~ circa 1795-1820 M&H Armitage Mousehole ~ circa 1820-1835 Henry Armitage Mousehole ~ circa 1835-1854 M&H Armitage Mousehole Forge ~ circa 1854-1875 They continue on, there are 12 different marks listed by Mr. Postman up to the 1930's when the forge closed. But after the mid 19th century, they would have been of a modern shape, all having pritchel holes.

In his book, "The Mousehole Forge", Richard Postman documents on pages 40 & 41 an anvil with the following; "LOMA FROMING & Co." Sheffield 1*0*26 As Richard states, "Mousehole anvils are distinctive in shape and when you know what to look for it does not matter who's name is on it." Here is mine, as advertised when purchased, as an example:

So, do you get many rings out of that anvil while forging? I bet that wood be a nice tool for a young budding smith to start out with. Knot that I wood know any young sprouts in need of such a big, burly treasure.

I gave it a shot today and took it up to bright orange after 2 or 3 hours in a wood fed fire. I really hope it WAS hot enough, it is harder now, but it needs to be cleaned and polished again. It also shed lots of scale and blistered at the surface. I hope it cleans up well, and hopefully I can go over it this weekend.Thanks for looking! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmV2V4FhIMs&feature=youtu.be

I recognize Mjolnir on top of what could be a Beaver Wright.

That's awesome! I am pretty close to finished with shaping and sanding. Hand filing the inside corners has gotten the hole into more or less a square shape, enough so that a spike fits into it kind of loosely.

I polished an Estwing hammer once just to see how nice it would look. Then I went back to work with it. I don't polish those Estwings any more, the ones I use get plenty of that by working. So I know an anvil will polish up the same way. Mod note: Copyrighted image removed. If you have permission from the copyright holder to use their image, please provide that to IForgeIron in writing and we will restore the image.

What a beauty! Congratulations, that is a nice find.

Isothermal Transformation Diagrams are hard to pin down for even a known steel. I found one for 1095. Even if I had an exact correct diagram, to match times and temperatures accurately would be difficult. I am resigned to accept my best S.W.A.G. (scientific wild axe guess), and just be happy with it. I may have to have a BBQ picnic down by the river when that day comes.

So, the corners of the hardy are slow going, I got some files together and tried out a few until I had one that made a bit of headway in defining them. I made some gussets in the mean time. They are 3/8" thick, left over bits. Half way through welding it was hovering at 400 degrees F., so I gave it a little time to cool in between before finishing.

I would consider paint to be "sacrificial". It WILL get chipped, so be it. It would need to be clean and oil free, then I would use a metal compatible primer. After that, any paint compatible with the primer will suffice. I primered the sides of my JHM with rustoleum red brush grade primer, thinned down a bit. Just oil on the face and horn, thank you. I like the primer red color in place of the original rusty black paint.

Very interesting. I am cheering for you!!

Nice! We only took off enough to get the top flat and more parallel to the bottom, it still has much of the original side radius. Unfortunately I already know the hardness has gone away. It gave about a 30% rebound the other day with a 1" ball bearing. I only hope to make it harder than it is now if and when I get to that point. Thanks for having a look!

I like reading ... sometimes. I will prolly just buy a copy. Thanks for the tip! I still have another chunk. J Morse, thank you. I'll try not to let you down! Latticino, that is kind of what I had a mind to try, IF i can get my hands on a good chisel.

I started shaping my first rail anvil last year out of opportunity (I landed a couple free chunks), and curiosity. How hard can it be? (Pun hopefully acceptable.) I did gain assistance from a local machinist to flatten the top, who graciously donated his services to my cause, thank you Terry! I drilled the pritchel, and the hardy was roughed in as well. This leaves me where I am at presently, I have a buttery soft rail, with an unfinished hardy hole. I might be up to the hardening, but square cutting the hardy has to come first. I am not above paying someone to cut it professionally, and so I am contemplating my next move. I just thought I'ld share. Any and all comments, critiques, criticisms welcome. Poor old rail, never saw it coming...

Inland Empire, I thought I saw Shirley posting around here. San Fernando is too close to L.A. for me.

Thank you for the welcome! To be certain, I hoped to pass along all due respect to the owner! Surely, I jest. Actually I've cut welds even more delicately by die grinder.

All respect to the interior decorator, but WHAT weldor would DO such a thing? Oh, sorry. Steam pipe just ruptured.... is there a steamfitter in the house? I keep thinking I can get that off clean with a carbon arc torch and re-quench it, and uh.... Beautiful anvil btw!

I have one I bought new. That is (imo) a Russian made cast steel anvil, mine is 110 pounds. I bought mine knowing they would not last on the shelf, and they did not, they are discontinued. ~~~ Hello, I am new here, and I've already seen some familiar names! Here is my new/used Mousehole. M&H Armitage Mousehole 0*3*15 I need to set it up, but time has me constrained at present to more pressing concerns. I hope to begin soon.