eric sprado

Have you two been friends long??????????????

Thanks Thomas: Actually this is one of the times when folks are not only willing,but wanting to pay for a tool that is hand forged and "looks it". I have looked into attachment methods and seems like even folks who make "traditionally forged" tools use epoxy in their attachment process. Can't see it so it doesn't exist right?? .. Ferruled handles are SO cheap on line that I probably will go that way. The only other route I would go would be to use dry maple branches from my place that are already the right diameter. I'm not going to start making handles on a lathe...couldn't even START to compete with store bought ones... I think I'll probably also chisel in a few burrs on the shafts to discourage loosening...

I have somebody that wants me to make a bunch of small garden tools. The forging part will be easy,BUT, I know NOTHING about handles. The flat ones,of course,will simply have flat handle part on each side riveted together but what about the round ones? I see garden tools with wooden handles with ferrules and not seeming to have rivets or tangs stuck through that were hammered over. What keeps those ferruled handles on? How do you fit them. This could turn into a large ongoing order ( do I REALLY want that!) but I'd like to know how much effort handles will be. Make them? Buy them? HELP please!!!!!! Eric in Deadwood Oregon

The stupid arrogance involving "I'm a blacksmith,not a farrier" is rapidly disappearing. The NWBA even hosted a horseshoe making contest at the Timberline Lodge Five States Conference. Sorry- I somehow can't feel "inferior" about having crawled under about twenty thousand head of horses in my career. Good honest skilled trades,no matter what kind,are not to be looked down upon. You guys respect Frank Turley and Brian Brazeal?? Ask them if they are "ashamed" of their horseshoeing years..Maybe glad to not be bending over as much these days but NOT ashamed. In the little towns where I grew up men in blacksmith shops did both. As a little kid I guess I didn't know to ask them which part of their job they were ashamed of. Okay-I'll climb off,but I'd REALLY like this silly attitude disappear...

Kyboy-thanks. What I was wondering is that folks talk about different edges of the square face having a different radius. Mine is the same on all facets... Hope I'm being clear with my question.. Not sure how to word it...

How's about a blueprint? I've been making quite a few tongs lately and I'm always interested to see the different ways folks skin the same cat....

Funny-many of us,including me, have gone through the whole gamut of finding the best way to draw clips!!Even though I spent a long time learning my trade under a great teacher,my clips were never anything to brag on. Like everything else I do,they were functional but not pretty. Wish i had more artist in me.Got real close to an artist once but nothing rubbed off. I don't really understand the deal of how the edges of different parts of the square face are ground with different radii? Could somebody post a clear picture showing the different edges and how they work? thanks. Eric S.

As a former horseshoer,yes,I do use a rounding hammer a lot but my preferred rounding hammer is the kind with one square face like the type Brian and Ken Mermelstein(sold by Kayne) make. Many shoers use mainly a crosspeen because it is so nice to use the peen for starting toe clips.If you are accurate enough(I'm not and never will be) to concave the inside foot surface of a shoe with a flat face,there is no need for the round face. No one style fits all. Just look at the average blacksmith's hammer rack.

I make all sorts of tools,including lots of fullers and punches from old tire irons found at yard sales and thrift stores for fifty cents. They seem to be 5160 and have never let me down. You can square up the wrench end to fit your hardy hole and not waste anything.

Even small Mousehole style anvils are great to work on because of the thick waist. I have a 90# Williamson that is like a Mousehole,that I take to hammer-ins. I bet you can make some metal MOVE on that 240#. Great find!!

Thought I just posted this but it disappeared. Jake James in Vancouver B.C. would be a GREAT contact. He is a Hereford graduate and a master smith. Works alone and might even need help. He can be found on NWBA site I believe. If you can't find him let me know. I was up the a while back to buy a fly press from him... EGAD-somebody help me delete this duplicate post. There doesn't seem to be a spot to "Delete" on the edit section...

Jake James in Vancouver BC would be a GREAT contact. He is a Hereford graduate and has some interesting stories about doing some journeying in Southeast Asia. He works alone and may even be of help in that direction. I believe he can be found through NWBA site. If you can't find him let me know and I can help. I was up there a while back and bought a fly press from him.

My youngest daughter is intrigued by Greek Mythology so keeps me up on this stuff! Her other favorite is Hestia-goddess of the hearth.

That is a BEAUTY!!! Can't believe all the settings...

Looks worth the drive to me. Take your most economical vehicle though..... Eric in Deadwood Oregon.

Love his invisible striker who appears out of nowhere on demand

Very nice first tongs.. They are not,however,box jaw tongs. In box jaws one tong side goes THROUGH the other. Hence the "box" opening. they are quite difficult to make.. Keep hammering. Great job.. Old tire irons are what I use too for almost all my tools.

Steve has a long list of helpful hints on his Incandescent Iron site. I'd recommend perusing it thoroughly. He is also the designer/seller of his American Made Rhino anvils..

No flies on those tongs!!! Especially using the limited tools you have.. You're rolling!!!!!!

Turks head at that end is a NICE touch!!Never have seen it there before but it makes sense....

You're looking at well over 100 combined thoughtful experience here (between me and Frank)..... Maybe listening mode might be indicated....

Started shoeing in1965. don't need three tools. Forepunch at high heat. Finish holes at black heat with SHARP pritchel from same side. Sharp tool at black heat just pops the nail hole nice and clean.I have a pritchel that Sgt. R.L. Richmond of the US Cavalry gave me in 1968.Still use it. If foot is very sloped I turn shoe over and pop a notch out of hole on the inside to allow for sloped nail driving. Like Frank,I have great respect for the English shoers,and have learned some nice tricks from them,but we did have a fine bunch of Cavalry shoers at Fort Riley that did quite an acceptable job of keeping our cavalry horses as sound as anybodys!! Shoe a horse from it's first shoeing job and keep it sound through 20+ years of shoeing and you are doing something right. Always enjoy posting same time as other "old timer",Frank. His skill level is better than mine,but we have both paid our dues!!!

I got in a zillion fights as a kid over my stuttering. Stopped when I discovered girls... Not really the best way to solve things but necessary sometimes. Wayne may have a thing there. Next time you see Mr. Toughguy alone ask him if he'd like to come by your shop..Don't humiliate him or embarrass him in front of anybody. Makes for an enemy...

You might want to look at Rhino Anvils too.They are made in Spokane now,not China. I bought one last week at the NWBA conference. VERY reasonably priced!!!

I bought one of the ones Steve brought over. Probably be a few days before I get to try it. Let you know.. Eric S.