Charles R. Stevens

Ok, so that's 250 RPM at the drum. So we need to slow the drum down by a factor of 5, either find a dive pully 5x smaller around the out side, or. A driven one 5x bigger around the outside, or split the diferance. The drive pully is probably prety small already. So go looking for a big drive pully or build a jack shaft to reduce the speed by 1/5.

Smaller drive pully = slower belt speed Bigger driven pully = slower drum rotation. The drive pully turns at motor rpm, but the bigger the circumpherance the faster the belt travels. The driven pully rpm is dependent on the outside circumpherance of the pully, the bigger the pully the farther the belt has to travel to turn the shaft 1 rpm. Using a jack shaft alows you to use smaller pullies. I remember how to do the math bu I'd have to look up the formula or reinvent the math. The diferance in the circumpherius of the puppy's is the ratio that the driven saft will be driven. I know farm equipment and such has say 2' pullies. Coupled with say a 1 1/2" drive. I think 2 Pi R is the formula you need

Hear, hear. Well said Master Bob. There are reenactors in hear that can tell you about 40# stump anvils and bics, as well as nice makers and third world smiths working with 12-20# sledgehammer heads, as well as guys that cut their teeth on rail. You have a specialized anvil designed to be portable an to turn and forge horse shoes. But the secret is, it's an anvil, designed to turn and forge steel on. Like any anvil it has special "bits and bobs" to enhance its usefulness. There are trade offs and disadvantages to. Get it on a good solid stump or stand, bed it in silicon and clamp it down solid, use Chain or something to mellow the ring if its still offensive and use but don't abuse it. Hey, I like it. I'd trade my field anvil for it. Yours has many more cool doodads!!

It's allowed in newmexico and other southwest states. Might have to get a engineer or architect to sighn off (good idea for an industrial space anyway). The fire resistance and structural capacities have been tested. So examples of code as well as code compliance exist, second, in most jurisdictions, if its sighned off on by a engineer and/or architect then it's code compliant by default.

Peace of 1/2 plate with a 3/4 hole drilled in it. Cut it out as a round, relive the edges, most of the slag should run off to the side just like the cap. Otherwise just heap your coal higher on the table. I find a few fire bricks are wonderful for tweaking the fire for different tasks as well as fuel conservation.

What makes straw bale work is the ability of the bales to breath. Vapor baririers like steel, plastic, concrete ect. Traps moisture. Cob or adobe brick alows just a bit of moister to migrate, wile providing additional structural support, enhanced fire resistance and resistance to mechanical damage. Wile being easy to repair. Depending on rainfall deep verandas will protect the walls from erosion. Lime plaster and white wash are the finishes of choice. Cement stucco has destroid more adobes than I can count in the southwest. For your application my thaught is that whitewashed adobe would provide a pleasing aperiance to your buisness, as well as being dirt cheep. Not including labor. Cob with strawbale infill is more organic looking, but provides a thiner wall, say 2' if the bales 2 string on edge, wile the adobe and bale wall withe the bales on edge will be about 3 foot. Noise will certainly be abated better by the massive walls. As to an infill wall, materials that alow some air flow work, the Georgia governess mansion uses straw bale infill, plaster interior and shiplap siding. So a couple of layers of fire rated drywall with out PVA would probbably work on the inside, with cement lap siding on the outside, with breathable house wrap and no vapors barier. As to fire. Tightly packed bales are by nature fire resistant, lose straw not so much. A fire resistant exterior such as drywall, adobe, cob or mud plaster makes for a very fire resistant structure, if sparks can't get in and air is excluded it won't burn, even if it dose it will smolder. If it smoldered "rehab" is very destructive as you have to tear in to the wall to extinguish it. Note, earthquake resistant construction methods exist for adobe, with large hammers one would want to reenforce te wall structure (standard block wall reinforcement "ladders" should suffice. Be worned I'm not an architect or structural engineer , just an old boy with a nack for building things .

Glad your safe. Sad to meet under these circumstances. . My prayes.are yours.

Have to agree with Frosty, go with the weight, I'd go withe the end opposite the handle, and bed the handle in my stump. Latter you might consider profiling the other faces to make fullers and such. The big Chanel and I beam look like forge pans to me ;-)

Howdy, a little bit about how to use the diferant parts. Turning cams are just turning forks turned sideways. They are designed to bend 3/4" flat stock. But you can work smaller and larger stock if it will fit between the cams. The heel hardy hole is actually another bending point, use the one in the horn, it's over the feet and closer to the waist. Learn to work over the waist, to maximize the use of mass, this is a specialized anvil for turning shoes, so it has most of the mass and working surfaces in the heel and horn. When you start turning rings and scrolls it will become more usefull. As to ring, as already said, bolt it to a stump and bed it in silicon. I use a similar one in my truck, but I mostly hot shoe, so I don't carry heavy hammers. I have a larger shoeing anvil in the shop, and as its still prodomanantly heel and horn, it's great for turning, but you have to keep over the waist for heavy forging. Youl find uses for the other parts, like the clip horns , it's better than a rock, and even when you get a more substantial anvil, will still prove usefull. One point to remember on farrier anvils, don't exceed the 1/20 hammer/anvil weight ratio. With the thin waist your only working with about half as much anvil, so it will bounce and vibrate if you take a heavy hammer to her, especially on the horn or heal. So, 3 1/2 # would be a heavy hammer for this anvil.

I live in OK, have some friends that suffered heavy property damage. Thanks for you thaughts and prayers. Sad truth is that most of the big storms fallow a similar track and Moore is where they end up. Ad to the fact that they are getting bigger, after the may third tornado, the "F" scale was "enhanced" a nice way of saying that they increased the power of the tornadoes for F1-4 and added F5. Code requires survivability for F3 storms, but in the case of a F5 your talking about the power of a small nuke, that hangs around and moves. Welcome to global warming. Bent iron, with the heat and lack of moisture the last few years I actually considers moving back to the Vally. Lower temps and more rain.

Modern "key and tumbler" locks "pick" in a compleatly different manner than old "guard and ward" locks. Their were some primitive combination locks as well as some simple locks that simply snapped closed and used a simple pin to open.

I can't say as to what is the proper temper, some what softer than a knife blade, but not much. Worked over 10 years as an automotive mechanic, and a soft screwdriver will strip more screw heads than you can shake a stick at. I find that high quality tips for electric drivers will snap of clean like a knife tip.

Heavy equipment and truck shops often have second shifts, as the customers don't whant to take the equipment out of service for PM's As to H13, I learned to forge the stuff in shoeing school. Very nerrow forgin range, to hot and you ruin it (true of all high carbon steels) and to cool you ruin it (starts to get hard and cracks) it's funky to heat treat, as to aneal it you heat it to red (to cool to forge) and to heat treat you heat it to yellow (upper end of forging) and let it cool my pritchel has been reforged so many tines I need to start over, it's too short for heavy shoes, as the radiant heat burns my hand.

Rebate is rated by minimum performance not by content. You may be surprised, as I've made servisible chisels with it. I'd play with a peice of the parent stock to see how hard it gets, whether to use water or oil and how much, if any temper is needed.

Watch the "Cave Creek" comments Frosty, I grew up I Cave Creek, Arizona. Then again, if you've seen any if my posts, your comment stands as accurate.

Weld at night ;-) I'll ask a couple of the pipeline welders around here what they do.

Fist a question, where are you located? Chances are their is a member near you that has ben their, done that. As to ansers, you can order "tool steel" on line or go to a place like Fasinall or grangers, but that's an expensive rout. Google steel suppliers in your area, ask the local machine shop or fabricator shop, or scrounge. As to scrounging. For the beginner it saves $ twice, but certainly not time. Firstly you save on initial purchase, second, as you are just as likely to screw up and burn he steel, or forge it to cold and stress crack it, or break it on quench (if your making cold working tools) scrapping is my preference. When you have a good handle on making tools by all means by good steel and make great tools. On to scrapping. Automotive shops, particularly 4x4 and shops with alignment racks, will have springs, torsion bars, sway bars and suspension linkage. All good medium carbon stuff, as well automotive, truck and industrial (tractors, heavy equipment and forklift) shops will have broken axils, shafting and fork tines, bring forged nick nacks and then when you get your tool building down bring them a tool recagnisably from their donation. As base ben said before rents tool places often have broken pvment breaker (jackhammer) bits for cheep. Old toos from flea markets and junk shops such as hammer heads, chisels, aligning drifts, punches and pry/ wrecking bars can all be reworked as other tools.

Don't forget automotive, truck and industrial repair for medium carbon scrap (broken or warn out steering linkage, springs, torsion bars, sway bars,"S" cams and shafting) and large machine shops can be a sorce of high carbon drops. You may be surprised at what a walk around the neiborhood will net you. Large bolts, old tire irons, scraps of rebar ( yes lots of advice against using this stuff but its good for practice and due to the use of higher carbon scrap and code requirements the newer stuff is fairly consistent, and the old square stuff just might be your introduction to wraught iron) and such. Bed frames are somthing I allways snag. My dad hates the stuff because its harder to drill and cut, but it's nice (and free), strong light angle for fabrication projects, and makes nice weed getters for dandilions and such. Junk shops may have old tools that can be re worked. Old hammers, old chisels splitting wedges pry and wrecking bars all offer materials that can be forged into new tools. As you get a hang for scrounging youl start spotting stuff all over. Just hide your scrap pile from the neibors and the misses.

A one peice prod is not impossible, by it consider a laminated prod (like a automotive spring with the shorter leaves inside the arc) lubrication of the leaves with a graffite compound will increase efficiancy. Besides the thinner leaves are much easyer to work with.

Most large cities have a spring shop that makes custom automotive, truck and trailer springs. You can get a drop from them, and even have them heat treat it. You can also use used automotive, truck or trailer spring. But it may have flaws due to fatigue.

As to other uses, steel tanks make exelent bells. That reminds me, I need to build a new gate bell. Need to know when to put up the dog.

Wouldn't argue with a man with 30 years experience. Well ok I would if he was an idiot. No your right not even then. But Steve, you certainly don't strike me as an idiot.

2001 isuzu NPR, flatbed. It was the right price, halls 2 tons, gets excellent fuel mileage and at 290000 miles the engine has 210000 miles left befor it exceeds its designed longevity. Btw, my insurance insured it as a pickup!

The obvious thing from my point of veiw is the tools you need to work with. Tongs can be made with out tongs, you need properly shaped ones to hold steel to make punches and drifts, they replace the drill press for most work. Hot and cold cut hardies as well as long handled hot cut chisels make cutting with out power tools or a hacksaw and vice much nicer. Iron Age smiths didn't have a metal vice, and they did well, somtimes you have to recruits a helper but I it's to help build a tool that eliminates the need for the helper, it's worth the haste. Tool building will build the skills and mind set you need for money making (or favor acumilating) projects.

I have ostioarthritis, hands, knees, shoulders and back. Jumping out of airplanes and humping packs that where way to heavy when your in your late teens, mechanicing, and wrasling horses is hard on your body. Keep moving, keep your teath clean, include antioxidants in your diet (e&c). MSM seems to help, as does keeping warm, and doing dishes when your hands really stiffen up.